Tea total -- a cup or two of Chinese brews

A Chinese meal would not be complete without seemingly endless helpings of Chinese tea, in all their varieties, from flower teas to green tea. Raymond Ng from Lotus Garden Seafood Restaurant at the World Trade Center in Central Jakarta said some of the teas go better with particular dishes, but all of them are basically suitable to accompany Chinese meals.

* Soo Mai or white tea

White tea undergoes a minimal process of air drying and slight fermentation. Of all teas, white has the least amount of caffeine. These teas should be steeped in water well below boiling point and for at least four to five minutes to accompany mild flavored food, especially wok-tossed seafood.

* Po Erh

Po Erh tea come from Yunnan province in China and has a strong, earthy flavor. It is processed according to an ancient technique, formerly a state secret, that involves aging the leaves. It is often formed into bricks and is one of the few teas that ages well, up to 50 years. The strong flavor goes well with braised or stewed rich meat items.

* Green tea

Green tea is picked and quickly dried, either pan-fried, steamed or fired in an oven, to seal the goodness of the leaf. Because the leaf is so delicate, the tea should be brewed in water that is well below boiling to prevent cooking the leaves and destroying the subtle notes of the tea.

But green tea has a short life-span. The leaves are not oxidized and thus have less caffeine than other types of tea. Green tea leaves are sometimes blended with jasmine for a floral fragrance. Jasmine tea is called Xiang pian and best served with light savory foods and desserts.

* Chrysanthemum

Chrysanthemum is pure flower tea, made from the dried petals. It is usually drunk with a little sugar.

* Black tea

Black tea, also known as red tea, oolong or Tikuanyin in China, is the result of a complete oxydation of the leaf before being heated. Black teas are full bodied and are able to withstand the addition of sweeteners and milk.