Taste buds take a magic carpet ride to Pakistan

Is it possible that Epicurus' appetite is on the wane?

With prices skyrocketing, food shortages and diners at every table discussing the economic woes besetting us, it's enough to put even the heartiest gourmands off their nasi goreng.

But it's more than just losing one's lust for the spices, flavors and aromas.

And so, over a desultory plate of stir-fried vegetables in the office dining room, Epicurus -- while complaining about the mushrooming prices and shrinking portions -- put a finger on the source of taste bud listlessness.

These days it seems the most important ingredient is missing: the taste.

Skimping and saving on the fundamentals may be a bigger mistake than most restaurateurs imagine. And serving up meals with more sauce than substance may turn away loyal patrons.

With a grumbling stomach and taste buds in need of resuscitation, Epicurus was enticed by the bright lights of Restoran Pakistan on Jl. R.S. Fatmawati, south of Blok M.

Some diners may be convinced that India and Pakistan not only share a border but a common way of cooking. Nothing could be further from the truth.

Upon arrival, the restaurant envelops guests first with its traditional music, then with an impossible-to-choose-just-one- dish selection.

After passing through the glass doors into the dining area, the music fades and eyes start performing optical somersaults.

There is green satin adorning the ceiling, Islamic artifacts, enticing photographs of Pakistan and a selection of handmade carpets from Afghanistan, Kashmir, Iran, Turkey and Pakistan hanging on the walls.

With the addition of a mouthwatering selection of food atop the table, diners may feel they have taken a quick trip to Pakistan, thankfully minus the Rp 1 million departure tax.

At the front counter eying the restaurant's precooked selection, Epicurus and friends had a hard time choosing.

Our indecision prompted a taste test at the counter. The chicken qorma was particularly delectable, and the once civilized sampling turned into a feeding frenzy as the roti canai bread was torn and dipped into the qorma sauce.

After suitably disgracing ourselves in front of the restaurant staff and changing the order several times, a portion of almost every dish -- except the curries -- winded up on our table.

The staff's friendly and accommodating attitude made our culinary experience all the more enjoyable. The food's quality speaks for itself.

Coming top of the list for taste in Epicurus' book were a pineapple and chili condiment (acar) and a potato and spinach dish (pala).

It is common for Indian and Pakistani servings to seem small -- especially in comparison to the enough-for-an-entire-family serving of rice you can receive at Indonesian restaurants -- but do not be deceived.

As a foursome we dined heartily on two meat dishes -- chicken and beef qorma -- two vegetable dishes, two condiments and a choice of bread or rice, with the staff happily providing half servings. All of this for Rp 56,000.

And half of the samosa (vegetables or meat wrapped in pastry) remained untouched because our eyes were simply bigger than our bellies.

The restaurant's lassi yogurt drink, which can be made sweet or salty, comes highly recommended.

This refreshing beverage offers the ultimate salvation from these economically trying times: it helps relieve insomnia.

-- Epicurus