Taking time out in tranquil Laos

Meidyatama Suryodiningrat, The Jakarta Post, Vientiane

Laos probably ranks bottom when it comes to tourist destinations in the greater Indochina region. It cannot touch the rich culture, variety and tourism infrastructure of Thailand; it does not seduce people like Angkor Wat in Siem Reap, Cambodia; nor does it have the emotional attachments to modern fable that Vietnam has.

Laos is right down there with Myanmar in its ability to beguile foreign visitors.

If you had one destination of choice in the region, Laos would not be it. But as part of a bigger itinerary to explore Indochina, then Laos deserves inclusion.

Economic liberalization has brought tremendous development to Laos in the last decade. American and Japanese vehicles in Vientiane compete with bicycles, tuk-tuk (motorized pedicab) and motorcycles. Several modern hotels are open for service and Internet cafes are easily spotted around town. But compared to neighboring Southeast Asian capitals, Vientiane is globalization's ozone hole; nowhere are highrises to be seen.

The pace of change is such that one can still watch time pass by, slowly. There are few modern indulgences to waste our time.

Frankly, there are few esthetically astounding edifices in the capital. Between visiting temples and haggling for cheap silk at Talat Sao (Morning Market), visitors to Vientiane pass time sipping BeerLao near the dusty banks of Mekong River.

It is a place where being in the void is the arresting charm.

Locals are laid back, adding to the indolent atmosphere. They are a charming people. Unassuming and, generally speaking, unspoilt by capitalism. That is not to say that they won't try to make a profit off gullible tourists. But it's still a place where a smile and good manners will open doors.

Whatever shortcomings they have in catering to tourists' needs come more out of ignorance and inexperience than a lack of trying.

Vientiane and other major tourist destinations in Laos are safer than most cities in Indonesia. The strong totalitarian grip of the Laotian regime ensures tight control over security. The most recent crime waves involve drug lords going berserk or separatist rebels.

For Indonesian taste buds, the food is excellent. It's not as spicy as Thai food, but definitely tastier than average entrees in Vietnam or Cambodia.

Money trickles in this country. Even for unsuspecting tourists, life is cheap in Laos. The official kip currency is pegged at around 10,500 to the US dollar. On the streets they simply convert each dollar to 10,000 kip.

Laotian traders usually have three wallets or one big one because trading can be done in local currency, dollars and the Thai baht at the same time. So if you're not spending more than US$100, there is no need to go to a money changer.

Two destinations are standouts: Vientiane and the ancient capital of Luang Prabang.

Laos's capital is on the crescent curb of the Mekong River. The best way to see and feel Vientiane and its surroundings is on foot and the venerable tuk-tuk. Tuk-tuk cost no more than 4,500 kip per person for any destination within the city.

Bicycles or motorcycles are another option, with rentals -- around US$15 per day for a motorcycle -- found in abundance, especially near the guest houses along the Mekong River or Morning Market.

Taxis can also be found in certain locations in the capital, but cab rides tend to take the adventure out of the experience. Those willing to splurge can also rent a car. The main throughways of the city are asphalt, but beyond is mostly dirt.

Be warned, though, when traversing Vientiane streets! Laotians, in the words of the tourism authority themselves, "drive by inspiration and with the assistance of Buddha".

At the center of Vientiane's main boulevard is Patouxay, Laos' version of Paris' Arc de Triomphe. Like Monas in Jakarta, it is one of those unimpressive structures built as a political monument which sort of creeps into the guidebooks as a must see. Given its strategic location in the city, you cannot help but come across Patouxay even if you never intended to visit it.

The most memorable sight in Vientiane is the That Luang stupa. It is the country's national symbol and legend would have us believe that it houses a single hair of Buddha. Erected in 1566, wars and time have left much of the original structure in ruins until it was restored by the French about a century ago.

Compared to other stupas and temples, That Luang looks plain and barren. But its gold paint makes for a splendid sight illuminated in the fading sunset light.

A must see for anyone on a brief stopover in Vientiane is Xieng Khuan, or Buddha Park. Located on the banks of the Mekong River not far from the Friendship Bridge linking Laos and Thailand, Xieng Khuan is about 25 kilometers from the capital.

A quirky place of limited historical value, it truly functions as ... a park. It is unique for its several dozen Buddha and Hindu related statues -- its centerpiece is a 50-meter-long reclining Buddha -- mostly carved by its founder Luang Phu Boon Lua.

The jewel of Laos is undoubtedly Luang Prabang. If Vientiane is the city of Laos' tomorrow, Luang Prabang presents where the country was and largely still is today.

A short hop by airplane or a 12-hour-long bus ride north from Vientiane, it has been designated as a United Nations heritage site -- UNESCO says it is the best preserved historical city in Southeast Asia.

Some three dozen temples and French colonial edifices are scattered around the riverine peninsula. Two days of casual wandering should suffice around the city, which is nothing short of a photographer's paradise and a venue for budding philosophers to do some soul-searching.

Act like a tourist if you must, but leave your map behind and stop being so worried that your cell-phone is getting a strong enough signal. The placid serenity of being lost in Luang Prabang provides the place to soak in simple pleasures and complex thoughts.