Taking the street for 'lesehan' dining

Once-fat wallets, crammed with crisp Rp 50,000 bills, a string of credit cards and receipts from previous extravagant dining experiences, have gone on an impromptu diet.

The leather has lost its luster and the sorry assortment of Rp 1,000 and Rp 5,000 notes contained within sees little daylight these days.

Owners talk sorrowfully about the thin and gaunt appearance of their former great shopping companion, wondering aloud where they can find obat dompet, a cure for what ails their wallet.

Restaurants with expensive decor and equally unaffordable cuisine -- not to mention those nebulous taxes that may cause you and your pocketbook to flatline -- hold little attraction for those strapped for cash.

Which is why we found ourselves sitting cross-legged outside Bank PSP on Jl. Panglima Polim Raya in Blok M, eating lesehan style.

In these tough times, Epicurus likes to think of this Yogyakarta social mainstay as alfresco dining, with all the colorful condiments of Jakarta's street life thrown in at no extra cost.

The food is straight from the kitchens of Yogyakarta, or rather made in an authentic representation right here, serving up renowned nasi gudeg (rice and young jackfruit cooked in coconut milk) and krecek (fatty beef skin) among its offerings.

And, yes, the es jeruk (iced orange juice) is made the traditional Javanese way -- with about three dessert spoonfuls of sugar.

Lesehan Gudeg "Jogja" has become somewhat of an institution among the capital's musicians and pubgoers, who crave a midnight snack or steaming cups of teh poci, served in a clay teapot, to water down their alcohol intake.

Those who enjoy burning the candle at both ends swear that this food stall makes the best sop buntut (oxtail soup) around.

Epicurus holds that the abundance of tomato, shallots and pepper in this soup -- and there is still some meat on the bones -- makes it close to unbeatable.

So what this humble eatery lacks in furnishings and decor, it makes up for in atmosphere and character.

It is not unusual to share a mat with the members of Rastafara, a well-known Jakarta reggae band, or occasionally catch a glimpse of Gigi's members in matching black T-shirts.

When Epicurus once arrived unfashionably early, before 9 p.m., there was no one in sight.

But it did not take long before the culinary delights of this sidewalk food stall -- staffed by four or five youngsters who look no older than high school age -- arrived on board an old Toyota hardtop.

Lesehan dining is synonymous with Yogyakarta and the city's main drag, Jl. Malioboro, which comes alive with food stalls after 9 p.m. after the souvenir vendors have packed up. Locals sit around strumming on guitars and taking in the night life until the wee hours.

For the uninitiated, the only rule is to remove all foot apparel (forget any inhibitions about odor) before stepping onto the plastic and bamboo mats which substitute for chairs.

And while Jakarta diners sip on one of the nine drink selections or munch on their choice from the similar number of food varieties, there is the additional draw of a cute, young lad who will polish your shoes.

Occasionally a group of buskers who play traditional Javanese songs or a man plucking the kecapi harp pass by, melding the sights and sounds of Central Java.

Those who enjoy people-watching may still be a bit disappointed. Patrons themselves can start to feel a bit like exhibits in a museum when the passing traffic slows to a crawl, and motorists tend to find you more interesting than the nodding pooch on the dashboard.

At times, the pollution can be too much, hanging thick in the air like satay smoke. And there will undoubtedly be those trying to set a new urban speed record on their motorcycles.

But this outlet for lesehan embraces you like an extended family; eat there just a few times and you already feel like a regular.

And Epicurus doubts there are many places left in this sprawling capital that still offer hearty helpings of food and drink for about Rp 6,000 (don't even think about trying to convert that to dollars). It all tastes good, and it is also immensely kind to your beleaguered pocketbook.

-- Epicurus