Swiss cuisine in a homey atmosphere
Tania Budihardjo, Contributor, Jakarta
Providing an atmosphere of Swiss festivity and style, the Gran Melia Hotel draws one in with a cross of tropical naturalism and European formality during the ongoing Swiss Food and Cultural Highlights.
The hotel's cross-cultural architecture mirrors the night's immersion in Swiss culture and cuisine. Those who know nothing more about Switzerland than K-Swiss, Swiss cheese and the Alps will not be proven completely ignorant.
Appetizers include that staple of Swiss staples, cheese. "Have you ever heard of fondue?" asked one man with a strong European accent. "If you've ever read Asterix, you have," he quips.
Waiters offer fried cheese and delicious cheese tarts. For those who prefer "fromage originale", one chef's job is to cut the cheese. Really. Other appetizer offerings include pumpernickel, deep-fried apple and a light meringue concoction called "chestnut vermicelli".
As one waits outside of the Cafe Gran Via, two Swiss musicians in costume serenade guests with the Swiss accordion. Guests can also enjoy paintings by Alfred Broger, one of the most prominent Swiss artists, which are being shown for the first time in Asia.
Norbert Barlocher, the charge d'affaires at the Swiss Embassy in Jakarta, chose the paintings for the exhibition, wanting them to reflect the value of tradition, which is honored by Indonesians and the Swiss alike.
The buffet cuisine is as authentic as the atmosphere, at least to my inexperienced taste buds. Thanks to guest chef Richard Oser from the Swisotel Batel, most of the dishes were scrumptious, though a few forgettable ones were also present.
Although I normally shy away from raw meat, the smoked trout and salmon were delightful. The chef smoked the fish just enough to retain its genuine flavor. Too bad I almost choked on a number of bones.
Another favorite was Gorgonzola Gnocchi. At first taste one does not know what it is, except that its texture is very tender and that its taste is absolutely amazing. Its rich buttery sauce is a perfect accompaniment. Lu-Vol-Au-Vent -- a tart with chicken, apple and raisins -- was wonderful. The texture of the pastry was crisp, the flavor unique yet familiarly homey and tasty.
Other offerings included Minestrone Soup and a wide variety of Swiss cheeses. Less remarkable dishes included an unremarkable poached asparagus and a mediocre mushroom salad. Meats included rabbit, chicken fricassee, lamb, grilled sausage and veal, "Zurich-style". All of them were satisfactory, yet not exactly memorable.
The buffet also accommodated Asian tastes. Sashimi, sushi and fresh crab and shrimp provided a lighter, healthier alternative to the fattening Swiss dishes. There were also a number of Chinese dishes, a Vietnamese soup, a dim sum station and Indonesian foods. Whatever one prefers will likely be satisfied by the wide selection of food.
No matter how full you are, the dessert table is not to be missed. Enticing with their colors and picturesque appearance, the desserts are sure to delight. The chocolate mousse is appropriately rich, and just chocolaty enough to be comfortably devoured. The Geneva Pear Flan (a combination of flan and pastry), Monastery Tart (a neat-looking jelly tart) and Kirsch Gateau (a Swiss cake) will make you want to yodel with contentment. A chef at the Chocolate Praline-Making station lent an authentic touch.
The service was excellent, and the chefs were warm and patiently answered all of one's questions, and were quick with the small talk.
On the whole, the Swiss Food and Cultural Highlights, which runs until Aug. 7 at the Gran Melia Hotel's Cafe Gran Via, stylishly and pleasurably enlightens.
The Swiss Food and Cultural Highlights The Gran Melia Hotel's Cafe Gran Via in Jl. HR Rasuna Said, South Jakarta. Runs until Aug. 7, the dinner buffet costs Rp 145,000 ++ per person