Swiss cuisine in a homey atmosphere

Swiss cuisine in a homey atmosphere

Tania Budihardjo, Contributor, Jakarta

Providing an atmosphere of Swiss festivity and style, the Gran
Melia Hotel draws one in with a cross of tropical naturalism and
European formality during the ongoing Swiss Food and Cultural
Highlights.

The hotel's cross-cultural architecture mirrors the night's
immersion in Swiss culture and cuisine. Those who know nothing
more about Switzerland than K-Swiss, Swiss cheese and the Alps
will not be proven completely ignorant.

Appetizers include that staple of Swiss staples, cheese.
"Have you ever heard of fondue?" asked one man with a strong
European accent. "If you've ever read Asterix, you have," he
quips.

Waiters offer fried cheese and delicious cheese tarts. For
those who prefer "fromage originale", one chef's job is to cut
the cheese. Really. Other appetizer offerings include
pumpernickel, deep-fried apple and a light meringue concoction
called "chestnut vermicelli".

As one waits outside of the Cafe Gran Via, two Swiss musicians
in costume serenade guests with the Swiss accordion. Guests can
also enjoy paintings by Alfred Broger, one of the most prominent
Swiss artists, which are being shown for the first time in Asia.

Norbert Barlocher, the charge d'affaires at the Swiss Embassy
in Jakarta, chose the paintings for the exhibition, wanting them
to reflect the value of tradition, which is honored by
Indonesians and the Swiss alike.

The buffet cuisine is as authentic as the atmosphere, at least
to my inexperienced taste buds. Thanks to guest chef Richard Oser
from the Swisotel Batel, most of the dishes were scrumptious,
though a few forgettable ones were also present.

Although I normally shy away from raw meat, the smoked trout
and salmon were delightful. The chef smoked the fish just enough
to retain its genuine flavor. Too bad I almost choked on a
number of bones.

Another favorite was Gorgonzola Gnocchi. At first taste one
does not know what it is, except that its texture is very tender
and that its taste is absolutely amazing. Its rich buttery sauce
is a perfect accompaniment. Lu-Vol-Au-Vent -- a tart with
chicken, apple and raisins -- was wonderful. The texture of the
pastry was crisp, the flavor unique yet familiarly homey and
tasty.

Other offerings included Minestrone Soup and a wide variety of
Swiss cheeses. Less remarkable dishes included an unremarkable
poached asparagus and a mediocre mushroom salad. Meats included
rabbit, chicken fricassee, lamb, grilled sausage and veal,
"Zurich-style". All of them were satisfactory, yet not exactly
memorable.

The buffet also accommodated Asian tastes. Sashimi, sushi and
fresh crab and shrimp provided a lighter, healthier alternative
to the fattening Swiss dishes. There were also a number of
Chinese dishes, a Vietnamese soup, a dim sum station and
Indonesian foods. Whatever one prefers will likely be satisfied
by the wide selection of food.

No matter how full you are, the dessert table is not to be
missed. Enticing with their colors and picturesque appearance,
the desserts are sure to delight. The chocolate mousse is
appropriately rich, and just chocolaty enough to be comfortably
devoured. The Geneva Pear Flan (a combination of flan and
pastry), Monastery Tart (a neat-looking jelly tart) and Kirsch
Gateau (a Swiss cake) will make you want to yodel with
contentment. A chef at the Chocolate Praline-Making station lent
an authentic touch.

The service was excellent, and the chefs were warm and
patiently answered all of one's questions, and were quick with
the small talk.

On the whole, the Swiss Food and Cultural Highlights, which
runs until Aug. 7 at the Gran Melia Hotel's Cafe Gran Via,
stylishly and pleasurably enlightens.

The Swiss Food and Cultural Highlights The Gran Melia Hotel's
Cafe Gran Via in Jl. HR Rasuna Said, South Jakarta. Runs until
Aug. 7, the dinner buffet costs Rp 145,000 ++ per person