Surakarta's Triwindu market offers antiques and much more
By Sulistyo Budi and Singgir Kartana
SURAKARTA, Central Java (JP): As a tourist destination, Surakarta has yet to gain the fame of nearby Yogyakarta or Bali. It is no reflection of its charms; in addition to its palaces, batik and regular traditional art events, the city of Bengawan Solo river boasts the attraction of Pasar Triwindu antiques market.
The traditional market is located in the heart of the city, also known as Solo, not far from Mangkunegaran Palace, making it easy to reach for tourists. Among the wares on offer are lanterns, porcelain plates, sculptures, batik and heirlooms. Some of the vendors claim their goods are hundreds of years old.
In addition, there are also secondhand goods, such as electronics, spare parts and household wares. The old and new goods are not jumbled together, however, but sold separately as the location of less than a hectare is divided into two.
It is a tourist draw, bringing in both local and foreign visitors. Basuki, one of the vendors, said foreign tourists were particularly enthusiastic about visiting the market. They usually come in December or July.
"The biggest sellers among foreigners are batik cloth and old items such as porcelain bowls. I was once asked by an American tourist to find 100 old batik cloths, but I couldn't do it because the deadline was very short. Finding such items is difficult," Basuki said.
The heyday of the market, he added, occurred during the economic crisis from 1997 to 1999. He said it was a time of rich pickings for traders, but tourist numbers have dropped recently, especially after the anti-American sweep of hotels in October 2000.
Unique
The unique quality of the market is apparent from the variety of goods on sale, even though some of them are imitation. The goods are laid out simply, with no special packing or draws. It allows visitors to evaluate the goods directly.
"If you are interested, I have an old gramophone which is still OK. I've had offers of two million rupiah, but if you want it I'll give it to you for two and a half million," Wahyu, 60, told The Jakarta Post.
It is also said that items from the local palaces, both Kasunanan and Mangkunegaran, can be bought at the site. However, it is not easy to obtain the goods; visitors must know the seller personally
The transaction is like buying something on the black market. The goods are not available at the market; instead, the interested buyer is requested to visit the home of the seller. They say the reason is they fear they will be accused of selling stolen goods.
Wahyu admitted to having several items from the palaces, such as porcelain plates and antique lamps. He, too, does not sell the items from his kiosk, but from home. The father of two told the Post in a whisper that he also possessed a spearhead made from a meteorite.
But most of the vendors do not want to explain where they obtained the items from; they will only say they got them from "someone" but they know for sure the goods are from the palace.
"I won't feel good if I tell you. There is someone who often offers me such goods. Well, whoever wants to sell me such goods, I'll buy because they have a high sales value and are sold quickly," Wahyu said.
Stories of the loss of items from the palaces are often told among the people of Surakarta. The loss of a gamelan from Kasunanan Palace several months ago is only one of the mysterious cases.
The police's success in locating the stolen musical instruments has only added credence to the suspicion that in fact a lot more of the palace's invaluable wealth has been stolen. It's an open secret that Triwindu is only one of many markets where legally protected artifacts are traded in.
Usman, a 39-year-old resident, claimed he had often been offered to buy invaluable goods from the palace. He said he already has several ceramic plates bearing the image of one of the sultans and an antique kris. He bought all of them at Triwindu market.
"If you can talk nicely to the traders and you are lucky, you may get rare goods from the palace. Of course they are expensive," he said.
KRMH Satrio Hadinagoro, a palace official who is also Pakubuwono XII's son in law, did not deny reports about theft of palace goods.
Hadinagoro, who is the husband of Gusti Moeng, dismissed the theory that the crime involved insiders.
"If a palace personality, such as myself, sells his property ... it's their right. Nobody can stop them," he said.
He also acknowledged that the palace has long been so heavily indebted that it was forced to sell or pawn many of its valuable goods.
"So I don't believe some insiders sell them to the public but if it happens, it's deplorable," he said.
For some people like Hadinagoro, the illegal sales of palace goods are mere rumors but many believe they are in fact true. It's precisely this nature of controversy that makes Triwindu market appealing, especially to antique hunters from abroad.