Surabaya's cultural heritage devastated by modern lifestyles

To mark the 711th anniversary of East Java province's capital Surabaya which falls on May 31, The Jakarta Post's Indra Harsaputra reports on the city's historical sites, which are in a poor state, and also on the rapid development of business in the second largest city in the country.

Sad to say, Surabaya's Youth Hall and many other historical buildings are now in a state of neglect or been have converted into upmarket shopping centers. Besides the loss of many examples of the city's built heritage, Surabaya has also degenerated into a heavily polluted urban sprawl. Surprisingly, most of the city's residents seem unaffected by the pollution. For them, Surabaya is still a good place to live and work in.

Surabaya, originally a coastal town, is one of the country's oldest urban areas. Located on the Kalimas estuary, it was originally called Ujunggaluh (Hujunggaluh) and is thought to date back to 1293

The settlement of Ujunggaluh is generally associated with the struggle waged by Raden Wijaya and his people against Kubilai Khan's Mongol invaders.

In local mythology, there was a fight between a sura fish and an alligator (buaya in Indonesian or boyo in Javanese) for control of a particular area. The fight ended with the death of both the fish and the alligator. Hence the name Surabaya (sura combined with buaya.

During the Netherlands Indies days, Surabaya saw a number of noted Dutch architects gaining commissions in the city. Westmaes was one of these architects. He designed the Simpangsche Societeit, which was built in 1907. Today, this building, known as Balai Pemuda (Youth Hall), is still one of the city's main landmarks. The cream of Surabaya society gathered there to listen to music, dance and watch plays.

After completing the construction of Simpangche Societeit, Westmaes was instructed to design De Tweede Roomsch Katholieke Kerk (the Second Surabaya Catholic Church), which is now known as the Church of St. Mary the Virgin and stands on Jalan Kepanjen.

During this period, other noted Dutch architects and firms of architects were also drawn to the city, including Fritz Joseph Pinedo, Berlage, Hulswit and Fermond & Ed. Cuypers. Their work shows a blend of traditional Javanese Joglo (the steep upper section of the roof of a traditional Javanese mansion) and Dutch architectural styles.

Thanks to the work of these architects, Surabaya still boasts some impressive Netherlands Indies architecture. Some of these buildings also played a role in the rebellion staged by Surabaya residents against the Allies. The Jembatan Merah (Red Bridge) and the Heroes' Monument, for example, are just two of the many buildings that bear silent witness to history in the city.

As of 2003, the Surabaya municipal administration had identified 163 historic buildings and heritage sites. These buildings, considered invaluable from the historical, architectural and conservation aspects, include Kalisosok penitentiary, Surabaya city railway station (Semut), the Joko Dolog statue, Bung Karno's boarding house on Jalan Peneleh Gang VII/29-31 just of Jl. Peneleh, and the Nam Shop.

Unfortunately, some of these heritage sites are now in poor repair. Some of them have even, or will be, converted to commercial uses. Kalisosok penitentiary, for example, is currently very dilapidated and is due to be turned into a shopping center. Semut railway station is also to be demolished to make way for shop-houses. Wonokromo traditional market has been converted into the Darmo Trade Center (DTC), which cost some Rp 230 billion.

The Airlangga University students dormitory on Jalan Blauran 57 was demolished last year, despite the fact that it was a protected structure.

Latimin, a retired naval officer who lives nearby, said the student dormitory was vacated long before PT Blauran Cipta Mulya drew up a plan to build a shopping center on the eastern part of Jalan Blauran.

Currently, the site occupied by the former dormitory is surrounded by an unsightly galvanized fence.

Of all the city's historical objects, it is the Balai Pemuda that is today the city's best known landmark. While in the past it was an art center for the elite, today it is the municipal art center, where regular performances ranging from dancing to a youth band festival are held. Events organized in conjunction with the official anniversary of Surabaya are also held here.

According to the official version of events, this building marked the beginning of the rise of Surabayans in their struggle against the colonizers.

During Dutch colonial rule, Surabaya residents were seriously offended when a Dutchman at the Simpangsche Societeit allegedly said: "Indigenous people and dogs are prohibited from entering." The story spread and enraged the Surabaya people, who later fought valiantly under local hero Bung (brother) Tomo against the colonists.

Meanwhile, Heri Lento, an observer of the art scene and also a member of the Surabaya Arts Council, said that the administration of Surabaya municipality had to do something to seriously tackle the devastation of the city's cultural heritage. The municipal administration plans to issue a bylaw for the protection of cultural heritage sites later this month.

"If the municipality administration fails to protect the city's cultural and historical legacy, Surabaya will lose its very identity," he said.

"The government has tried to promote local culture through various art performances but, unfortunately, there is no awareness of the significance of our cultural patrimony that has originated from outside Surabaya."

"It seems that they (the local government) only prioritize a handful of wealthy businesspeople at the expense of the public's interest," he said.

Heri said that there was little concern for the culture and history of Surabaya. When a village culture parade was held in conjunction with the official 711th anniversary of Surabaya, the local administration allowed the parade to be disrupted by traffic. In fact, the parade was intended to introduce the arts and history of Surabaya to the general public.