Supping on goat soup by the roadside
JAKARTA (JP): Jakarta-style sop kambing (goat soup) is sought after for its richness, if one ignores the huge cholesterol boost (and those recent reports of anthrax in Bogor!). A popular place to sup on the soup is Jl. Kendal-Blora in Central Jakarta, which offers goat soup and satay.
We plumped for a stall owned by indigenous Jakartan Haji Soleh, who has been serving up his specialty since the 1960s.
H.M. Soleh Kumis 999: He has two outlets on Jl. Kendal-Blora, which is near Jl. Latuharhary and the Duku Atas train station. He also has outlets at the Pasaraya Food Court, Blok M, and at the Sunter Mall, North Jakarta.
Open: 9:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.
What's it got: Goat soup is the prima donna on the menu here. Choose from the various parts of the goat -- meat, ear, leg, tongue, intestine, "torpedo" (the goat's testicles, which some believe are an aphrodisiac), or brain. The items are well-boiled and finely chopped, and served in a bowl filled with a rich piping hot broth spiced with samin oil/margarine and lime juice.
Other goat dishes are satay and fried rice with diced goat meat. The stall also serves chicken satay, and chicken and beef soup. To accompany the main dishes, the traditional krupuk emping (fried crackers made from the Melinjo nut) and krupuk kulit (fried crackers made of sun-dried cow or goat skin) are also available.
Drinks include es kopyor (chilled coconut milk with young coconut flesh), es alpukat (avocado juice served with grated ice and syrup), orange juice and tea.
Price points: Depends on the amount of meat the customers choose per serving. A slice of goat meat is about Rp 2,000, but the legs and "torpedo" could cost up to Rp 10,000, depending on the size (size does matter at this joint).
For a serving of 10 sticks, goat satay is Rp 12,000 and chicken satay, Rp 10,000.
Beef soup is charged slightly more-- Rp 2,500 per slice of meat chosen -- but imposes a flat rate of Rp 6,000 per serving for its chicken soup.
Looks: The food appears clean, as does the table and cutlery. Flies are unavoidable, though, especially during lunchtime when it is thronged with customers.
Popular with: Mostly goat-meat lovers from around the city. It is also a favorite lunch place for white-collar workers from offices around Jl. Sudirman, Jl. Thamrin and Menteng. Some artists, including actress Mutiara Sani, also dine here.
Taste factor: The goat soup is fabulous. The goat satay is juicy. The fried rice, chicken and beef soup are average. The rice is sometimes too dry, but, hey, this is not a five-star hotel restaurant (which is no guarantee of food quality, either)..
Minus Points: As with most other sidewalk eateries, dining here during lunchtime might leave you with a headache because of the cramped parking space and heat (the stall has some electric fans, though). And if you are looking for a peaceful dining place, it might not suit you because of the frequent presence of street singers.
Verdict: For those who value the contentment of devouring delicious food regardless of street dust, and who could care less about cholesterol and fat counts, it's a must-visit culinary stop in Jakarta. (Chris Tumelap)