Sugar museum tells of a sweeter time

Sugar museum tells of a sweeter time

By Tarko Sudiarno and Nugroho CH

KLATEN, Central Java (JP): Java was famous during Dutch
colonial times as one of the world's largest sugar producers.
Dozens of sugar mills operated on the island, and sugarcane
growers prospered.

The industry's heyday is history now. Mills across Java have
closed due to the shrinking size of sugarcane fields and the
increase in imported sugar. Farmers no longer want to grow
sugarcane because the earnings are not worth their time and
energy.

The country's sugar industry is dying, with five of the last
13 sugar factories run by Central Java Plantation Ltd being
forced to close down. The high cost of production no longer makes
it worthwhile for the mills to operate, and their closure is
leaving workers unemployed.

At the nine sugar mills still operating in Java, the level of
production and quality are a far cry from what they were during
the golden age of the Dutch East Indies' administration. The
dwindling sugarcane fields has forced a reduction in the milling
period of factories. Where they once were able to produce for
seven to nine months per year, the shortage of cane means they
can only operate for five months per year.

But the Gondang Baru sugar mill in Central Java is a living
reminder of the industry's glorious past. It is located in
Plawikan village in the subdistrict of Jogonalan in Klaten
regency. Built in 1860, when it was known as Gondang Winangoen
mill, it continues producing sugar to this day. It began
receiving cane supplies from the Ceper area in Klaten following
the closure of the PG Ceper Baru mill a few years ago, but the
milling period of PG Gondang Baru remains at a maximum of nine
months per year.

PG Gondang Baru probably owes its continued operation to the
creation of a sugar museum on the site in 1982, built so people
attending the World Sugar Congress in Jakarta that year would
have something interesting to see. Production at PG Gondang Baru
was decreasing, and PG Ceper Baru had to close so that its cane
supplies could go to PG Gondang Baru.

Soepardjo Roestam, the then governor of Central Java who
helped found the Central Java Sugar Museum, envisioned a unique
tourism attraction for Central Java. He wanted it to be a
monument to the glory of the past sugar industry. And because it
was part of the museum, he insisted that the mill continue to
operate.

The strategically located museum is important because of its
unique collection. There are original documents from colonial
times, preserved examples of sugarcane plants and samples of
field equipment.

Among the most interesting items in the collection are ox-
driven rolling machines made of stone and wood, and steam
locomotives, made in 1884 in Germany, which were once used to
transport the sugar cane from the fields to the mill. They are
still in operating condition.

The mill itself may be the most fascinating sight for visitors
-- it is open to the public even during production.

"This museum continues to have few visitors at nearly all
times," acknowledged Bimo Satrio, who runs the museum, saying
most visitors were students on field trips during school
holidays.

"But many foreign tourists also come here, mostly from the
Netherlands, particularly those who once lived in Indonesia. They
are nostalgic and want to commemorate the glorious times of the
sugar industry."

He spoke during a tour by a Dutch family, who had their own
personal connection to the site.

"I was born here. My father was employed by this sugar mill
for two years before moving to a tobacco factory at Wedi," said
Mr. Calame, who was with his wife and two sons.

There are plans to transform the museum into a national
museum, but there seems to be number of obstacles, including
bureaucracy. For example, every visitor must first see PG Gondang
Baru's personnel officer to get a permit to enter the museum.

Bimo Satrio said the procedure was necessary because the
museum was within an operating mill.

"If the factory is already self-supporting, visitors will have
direct access to the museum. For this purpose, a separate
ticketing office has been made available. A separate gate has
also been set up to enable visitors to enter the museum."

Full realization of the national museum plan will take more
than grand ideas. Major funds will be needed, and the current Rp
1,000 ticket fee for each visitor is not sufficient. Additional
funds could be put to good use in preserving the important
historical articles still there.