Sugar museum tells of a sweeter time

By Tarko Sudiarno and Nugroho CH

KLATEN, Central Java (JP): Java was famous during Dutch colonial times as one of the world's largest sugar producers. Dozens of sugar mills operated on the island, and sugarcane growers prospered.

The industry's heyday is history now. Mills across Java have closed due to the shrinking size of sugarcane fields and the increase in imported sugar. Farmers no longer want to grow sugarcane because the earnings are not worth their time and energy.

The country's sugar industry is dying, with five of the last 13 sugar factories run by Central Java Plantation Ltd being forced to close down. The high cost of production no longer makes it worthwhile for the mills to operate, and their closure is leaving workers unemployed.

At the nine sugar mills still operating in Java, the level of production and quality are a far cry from what they were during the golden age of the Dutch East Indies' administration. The dwindling sugarcane fields has forced a reduction in the milling period of factories. Where they once were able to produce for seven to nine months per year, the shortage of cane means they can only operate for five months per year.

But the Gondang Baru sugar mill in Central Java is a living reminder of the industry's glorious past. It is located in Plawikan village in the subdistrict of Jogonalan in Klaten regency. Built in 1860, when it was known as Gondang Winangoen mill, it continues producing sugar to this day. It began receiving cane supplies from the Ceper area in Klaten following the closure of the PG Ceper Baru mill a few years ago, but the milling period of PG Gondang Baru remains at a maximum of nine months per year.

PG Gondang Baru probably owes its continued operation to the creation of a sugar museum on the site in 1982, built so people attending the World Sugar Congress in Jakarta that year would have something interesting to see. Production at PG Gondang Baru was decreasing, and PG Ceper Baru had to close so that its cane supplies could go to PG Gondang Baru.

Soepardjo Roestam, the then governor of Central Java who helped found the Central Java Sugar Museum, envisioned a unique tourism attraction for Central Java. He wanted it to be a monument to the glory of the past sugar industry. And because it was part of the museum, he insisted that the mill continue to operate.

The strategically located museum is important because of its unique collection. There are original documents from colonial times, preserved examples of sugarcane plants and samples of field equipment.

Among the most interesting items in the collection are ox- driven rolling machines made of stone and wood, and steam locomotives, made in 1884 in Germany, which were once used to transport the sugar cane from the fields to the mill. They are still in operating condition.

The mill itself may be the most fascinating sight for visitors -- it is open to the public even during production.

"This museum continues to have few visitors at nearly all times," acknowledged Bimo Satrio, who runs the museum, saying most visitors were students on field trips during school holidays.

"But many foreign tourists also come here, mostly from the Netherlands, particularly those who once lived in Indonesia. They are nostalgic and want to commemorate the glorious times of the sugar industry."

He spoke during a tour by a Dutch family, who had their own personal connection to the site.

"I was born here. My father was employed by this sugar mill for two years before moving to a tobacco factory at Wedi," said Mr. Calame, who was with his wife and two sons.

There are plans to transform the museum into a national museum, but there seems to be number of obstacles, including bureaucracy. For example, every visitor must first see PG Gondang Baru's personnel officer to get a permit to enter the museum.

Bimo Satrio said the procedure was necessary because the museum was within an operating mill.

"If the factory is already self-supporting, visitors will have direct access to the museum. For this purpose, a separate ticketing office has been made available. A separate gate has also been set up to enable visitors to enter the museum."

Full realization of the national museum plan will take more than grand ideas. Major funds will be needed, and the current Rp 1,000 ticket fee for each visitor is not sufficient. Additional funds could be put to good use in preserving the important historical articles still there.