Style still counts in Muslim fashion

Style still counts in Muslim fashion

By Tri Hafiningsih

JAKARTA (JP): The doors to fashion and style do not have to
close when women make the choice to wear the jilbab, the Muslim
head scarf.

It's a common sight now to see women in public places wearing
the scarf, with their bodies fully covered according to Islamic
teachings. It also appears that more celebrities, such as singers
Dewi Yull and actress Marissa Haque, now wear the Islamic attire
than in the past.

The women are following the Koran in covering their aurat,
which is defined as the entire body except for the face, hands
and soles of the feet, when in the company of males other than
close blood relatives.

Although some cultures have a stricter interpretation of the
clothing requirements which only allow the wearing of loose and
dark-colored garb, many women in other societies choose to
interpret the limitations with various styles and colors.

Casual jeans with cotton blouses or shirts, silk tunics, long-
sleeved embroidered kebaya (traditional blouse), caftans, popular
Malay two-piece dresses or formal three-piece office suits which
keep the body covered can be seen everywhere.

Flower motifs, batiks and striped designs with a wide range of
bright colors are not taboo. All of them come with the required
head scarf, covering the head and neck, along with long sleeves
and the overall "loose but comfortably fit" look, which is enough
to conceal body curves as required in Islamic teachings.

Former film and television actress Astri Ivo, who started
wearing Muslim outfits in public after conducting her haj
pilgrimage last year, balks at suggestions religious requirements
prevent women from dressing in style.

"I like bright colors, I still wear them whenever I like," she
said, adding that the religious teachings should not be seen as
restrictions. "It's even easier for me now, as I clearly see the
borders of the do's and don'ts in deciding what to wear."

The mother of three said there is no law forbidding Muslim
women from appearing elegant and beautiful, especially for their
husbands and families.

Although she prefers casual clothing like jeans and shirts,
Astri still goes to her seamstress to make outfits for more
formal occasions.

"It's more because of my small size. Not many ready-to-wear
clothes fit me," said Astri, who still occasionally buys designer
items, mainly for her head scarves.

Housewives like Ida, Ferry and Yani also prefer to design
their own Muslim outfits with the help of their favorite
seamstresses.

"It's just for comfort and economic reasons," Ida said.

Ferry, for instance, likes embroidered outfits. She has a
collection of tunics of her own creation of embroidered
decorations along with matching head scarves.

Designers

Although not many women can afford designer items, many
outlets providing Muslim fashion have opened in major shopping
centers and department stores, like Pasaraya and Galeria Matahari
in Blok M, South Jakarta, and Sarinah on Jl. Thamrin, Central
Jakarta.

In these shopping centers, several prominent names in Muslim
fashion design, like Ina Rahma, Ranti and Shafira, have opened
counters to accommodate the growing interest of middle-class
consumers wanting to wear Muslim fashion.

Marketing manager of Shafira's Jakarta branch, Yuliyanti
Saptarini, said Muslim fashion was not like "ordinary" fashion,
changing rapidly to follow the latest trend.

"The variation (of Muslim fashion) is more in accessories or
colors to create different styles," she said, mentioning pins,
brooches, scarves and hats as accessories to create attractive
touches to the Muslim outfits.

The right choice of fabric, she added, is also important in
designing.

"Nowadays, we have various fabrics to make cool and
comfortable outfits for Muslim women," Yuliyanti said, "But
cotton is still the best and most favorite choice among
costumers."

And the price does not have to break the bank.

"We have a variety of attractive head scarves, which are
priced at only Rp 10,000 each," she said.

Yuliyanti said that customers preferred Shafira's casual and
daily outfits. For casual outfits, prices range between Rp
450,000 and Rp 750,000, affordable for middle-class consumers,
she added.

Ranti has made a smart move by specializing in embroidered
outfits, which appeal to consumers from middle to upper-income
brackets, including "newcomers" to Muslim fashion.

Ranti's promotion officer, Nunung, said her collections
included casual and work outfits. "Now, we are preparing Muslim
bridal gowns and kebaya collections," she said.

Prices of Ranti's outfits at Sarinah and Blok M range between
Rp 400,000 and Rp 600,000 for casual wear, and start from Rp 1
million for formal outfits.

Personal commitment

Wearing a jilbab for many Muslim women is more of a personal
commitment to their religion rather than just a religious "must".

Astri Ivo said the desire to wear a head scarf started about
three years ago but she had to wait for her husband's "approval".
Her long wait ended last year when the couple returned from
Mecca.

Ferry started wearing a jilbab after performing umroh, a minor
haj, a few months ago.

For many women, the haj pilgrimage has become a turning point
to become better Muslims, making them willing to change their
dress style according to Islamic teachings, said Ida, who began
wearing the jilbab right after performing the haj in 1993.

"I feel more comfortable and confident wearing tunics and
scarves," the housewife said.

A member of the Indonesian Council of Ulemas said that wearing
the jilbab shows obedience toward God.

"It is really good to see so many women have chosen the right
path to be true believers of Islam," said Ostman Shihab,
professor at the school of Islamic teachings at Paramadina
University, Jakarta.

However, he also emphasized that Muslim women who do not wear
head scarves are not unbelievers.

"We can't judge people by the extremes. Let's just say they
are trying hard to be better Muslims and hopefully they'll come
to that soon," Ostman said.