Style still counts in Muslim fashion

By Tri Hafiningsih

JAKARTA (JP): The doors to fashion and style do not have to close when women make the choice to wear the jilbab, the Muslim head scarf.

It's a common sight now to see women in public places wearing the scarf, with their bodies fully covered according to Islamic teachings. It also appears that more celebrities, such as singers Dewi Yull and actress Marissa Haque, now wear the Islamic attire than in the past.

The women are following the Koran in covering their aurat, which is defined as the entire body except for the face, hands and soles of the feet, when in the company of males other than close blood relatives.

Although some cultures have a stricter interpretation of the clothing requirements which only allow the wearing of loose and dark-colored garb, many women in other societies choose to interpret the limitations with various styles and colors.

Casual jeans with cotton blouses or shirts, silk tunics, long- sleeved embroidered kebaya (traditional blouse), caftans, popular Malay two-piece dresses or formal three-piece office suits which keep the body covered can be seen everywhere.

Flower motifs, batiks and striped designs with a wide range of bright colors are not taboo. All of them come with the required head scarf, covering the head and neck, along with long sleeves and the overall "loose but comfortably fit" look, which is enough to conceal body curves as required in Islamic teachings.

Former film and television actress Astri Ivo, who started wearing Muslim outfits in public after conducting her haj pilgrimage last year, balks at suggestions religious requirements prevent women from dressing in style.

"I like bright colors, I still wear them whenever I like," she said, adding that the religious teachings should not be seen as restrictions. "It's even easier for me now, as I clearly see the borders of the do's and don'ts in deciding what to wear."

The mother of three said there is no law forbidding Muslim women from appearing elegant and beautiful, especially for their husbands and families.

Although she prefers casual clothing like jeans and shirts, Astri still goes to her seamstress to make outfits for more formal occasions.

"It's more because of my small size. Not many ready-to-wear clothes fit me," said Astri, who still occasionally buys designer items, mainly for her head scarves.

Housewives like Ida, Ferry and Yani also prefer to design their own Muslim outfits with the help of their favorite seamstresses.

"It's just for comfort and economic reasons," Ida said.

Ferry, for instance, likes embroidered outfits. She has a collection of tunics of her own creation of embroidered decorations along with matching head scarves.

Designers

Although not many women can afford designer items, many outlets providing Muslim fashion have opened in major shopping centers and department stores, like Pasaraya and Galeria Matahari in Blok M, South Jakarta, and Sarinah on Jl. Thamrin, Central Jakarta.

In these shopping centers, several prominent names in Muslim fashion design, like Ina Rahma, Ranti and Shafira, have opened counters to accommodate the growing interest of middle-class consumers wanting to wear Muslim fashion.

Marketing manager of Shafira's Jakarta branch, Yuliyanti Saptarini, said Muslim fashion was not like "ordinary" fashion, changing rapidly to follow the latest trend.

"The variation (of Muslim fashion) is more in accessories or colors to create different styles," she said, mentioning pins, brooches, scarves and hats as accessories to create attractive touches to the Muslim outfits.

The right choice of fabric, she added, is also important in designing.

"Nowadays, we have various fabrics to make cool and comfortable outfits for Muslim women," Yuliyanti said, "But cotton is still the best and most favorite choice among costumers."

And the price does not have to break the bank.

"We have a variety of attractive head scarves, which are priced at only Rp 10,000 each," she said.

Yuliyanti said that customers preferred Shafira's casual and daily outfits. For casual outfits, prices range between Rp 450,000 and Rp 750,000, affordable for middle-class consumers, she added.

Ranti has made a smart move by specializing in embroidered outfits, which appeal to consumers from middle to upper-income brackets, including "newcomers" to Muslim fashion.

Ranti's promotion officer, Nunung, said her collections included casual and work outfits. "Now, we are preparing Muslim bridal gowns and kebaya collections," she said.

Prices of Ranti's outfits at Sarinah and Blok M range between Rp 400,000 and Rp 600,000 for casual wear, and start from Rp 1 million for formal outfits.

Personal commitment

Wearing a jilbab for many Muslim women is more of a personal commitment to their religion rather than just a religious "must".

Astri Ivo said the desire to wear a head scarf started about three years ago but she had to wait for her husband's "approval". Her long wait ended last year when the couple returned from Mecca.

Ferry started wearing a jilbab after performing umroh, a minor haj, a few months ago.

For many women, the haj pilgrimage has become a turning point to become better Muslims, making them willing to change their dress style according to Islamic teachings, said Ida, who began wearing the jilbab right after performing the haj in 1993.

"I feel more comfortable and confident wearing tunics and scarves," the housewife said.

A member of the Indonesian Council of Ulemas said that wearing the jilbab shows obedience toward God.

"It is really good to see so many women have chosen the right path to be true believers of Islam," said Ostman Shihab, professor at the school of Islamic teachings at Paramadina University, Jakarta.

However, he also emphasized that Muslim women who do not wear head scarves are not unbelievers.

"We can't judge people by the extremes. Let's just say they are trying hard to be better Muslims and hopefully they'll come to that soon," Ostman said.