Still great, high, unbelievably white in the snow

Lia Lenggogeni, Contributor, Jakarta

Mount Kilimanjaro lies on the border of Tanzania and Kenya, just south of the Equator. As you fly into Tanzania from Kenya or the other way around, the pilot will gladly tell passengers when the summit is visible so you can feast on an aerial view of the magnificent wonder. The highest mountain in Africa, it now attracts many thousands of walkers each year.

"Great, high and unbelievably white in the sun," Hemingway wrote of the natural wonder. Over 1000 people reached the summit to see the sun rise over a new millennium on Jan. 1 2000.

It is unlikely that early man would have been attracted to the steep and cold slopes of Kilimanjaro at a time when it was probably very active and dangerous. The Chagga (local inhabitants) who live on the fertile volcanic soil around the base of the mountain probably only came to the area about 300. One of their legends talks of demons and evil spirits living on the mountain and guarding immense treasures. Stories are told of a king who decided to go to the top. Few of his party survived and those who did injured arms and legs.

Arab and Chinese traders and historians make mention of a giant mountain lying inland from Mombasa or Zanzibar but few early traders ventured into the interior of the continent. Slave traders passed below it and sometimes raided the villages of the Wachagga but it was not until the middle of the 19th century that a more serious interest was taken in the mountain and attempts were made to scale it.

In 1848 Johann Rebmann a missionary from Gerlingen in Germany saw Mount Kilimanjaro while crossing the plains of Tsavo. His guide talked of tales of how a group of porters were sent up the mountain to bring back the silver and other treasures from the summit. They came back only with water. Rebmann's report stimulated great interest in Germany and in the following years several expeditions were organized: first by Baron von Decken, then later by Dr. Hans Meyer -- accompanied by Yohana Lauwo who was 70 years old at the time and lived to be 124 -- who finally stood on the highest point on Oct. 5, 1889.

Nowadays, all treks must be organized through a tour company. Independent trekking is not allowed. The cost of most, but not all, treks includes park entry fees, hut fees, rescue fees, meals, guides, porters and, usually, transport to the park gate.

Because it is often said that to climb Kili one does not need technical mountaineering skills, people think that it's relatively easy to climb, and therefore reach the summit. In reality, it is still a difficult and potentially life-threatening experience, with only 50 percent of climbers able to make it to the top. A South African acquaintance recalls passing a lot of sick climbers, their faces blue from lack of oxygen on his way to the summit. He didn't even manage to witness the reportedly glorious view of expansive land and clouds from the "rooftop of Africa", the wind was so strong it hindered sight. His group only stayed at Uhuru Peak (the summit) for several minutes. An article I read in a South African travel magazine pleaded for more facts to be published in the media, because the writer lost his best friend, a first time climber, on his way up.

If you're too much of a sloth, you can still enjoy the sight of Kili from the ground. You'll pass it on your way to Arusha from Dar es Salaam or vice versa. But the fog often obscures the mountain, so you'll have a better view of it if you stay for at least a day in the small town of Moshi. Moshi is the main jumping off point for most Kilimanjaro visitors. It is considered safer than its bigger neighbor Arusha, the safari capital of Tanzania, but you still have to be careful when carrying valuables or withdrawing money from the town's only ATM. Moshi itself is unimpressive, but the sight of the imposing, snow-capped mountain from the small, provincial town is quite remarkable. There are a couple of cultural tourism programs offered by the Mamba Cultural Heritage Unit where you can visit small villages and waterfalls near Kilimanjaro and learn more about the Chagga culture. All of their guides have been living in the Kilimanjaro area for years and many are experienced guides for Kili treks and can recount tales of their adventures.

But the summit of Kilimanjaro is losing its ice so quickly that it could be barren dirt before the next decade is out. A shop owner in Moshi told me of the good old days when her family collected water from a small river that ran through her garden on the outskirts of town. The water was actually ice from the mountain that had trickled down, and it was drinkable, pure and sweet tasting. Now the river is completely dry. She showed me a picture of Kilimanjaro from fifty years ago, when it still looked like the Kilimanjaro we see in postcards. The snow at the peak was much more plentiful than what is there now. When the ice goes, it will take with it an irreplaceable 10-millennium record of the African climate, a profitable tourist attraction and a source of beauty that is a joy to contemplate. If you have the time and money, make sure it is on your itinerary. And make it soon.