Sun, 30 Dec 2001

Shopping with a distinctly different feel

Susanna Tjokro, Contributor, Jakarta

Both Pasar Ular and Jl. Surabaya are two well-known flea markets. All the stalls in that areas are open in all seasons, giving prospective customers a fun shopping experience.

Besides selling secondhand goods, the traders also stock brand-new merchandise. But the excitement of shopping under the sun is limited if you are not armed with a bargaining knack and the sharp perception to distinguish the genuine from the not-so- genuine.

For your information, many stores also sell fakes along with the authentic items. In terms of quality, I leave you to judge that yourself.

Brand-new, genuine items are cheaper than those sold at the exclusive stores, because the traders have bought these goods mostly from sailors -- meaning no value-added tax has to be paid. Most of the shops have no air conditioners: No need to pay high electricity bills either.

Just like shopping at traditional Indonesian markets, bargaining is essential and you can leave your credit cards at home.

Pasar Ular, Plumpang, Tanjung Priok, Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

Although its name literally means "Snake Market", it doesn't sell any snakes whatsoever. Instead, this vibrant market offers clothes, footwear, bags, sunglasses, belts, perfumes and watches. Secondhand and brand-new goods are available. Most of the merchandise comes from the sailors and distributors (who mainly produce footwear and clothes). Most of the traders come from Pasar Buaya. Around 1984, they moved to Pasar Ular.

The brand-new items are mainly locally made in Indonesia, so the traders will tell you. The genuine goods are mainly secondhand, sold by cash-strapped sailors. For example, an original (claimed the sellers) secondhand TAG Heuer watch -- in good condition -- was Rp 1,750,000.

If you ask the traders here, they will honestly show you the fake items from the genuine ones. They will even give you a few tips to distinguish the real from the wannabes.

Many clothes with popular brand names are sold at a lower price than anywhere else. Gap, Timberland, Nike, Levi's and Versace outfits join the crowd. However, I leave you to judge the quality. A new pair of Levi jeans mostly sell at Rp 75,000 to Rp 95,000. Levi's make up most of the jeans collection here.

Take a look at this: A secondhand Burberry sweater, made in the U.S. -- in good condition -- cost Rp 20,000. A pair of used American Levi denims was priced at Rp 50,000.

Most of the new shoes here are made in Indonesia. "They are export quality", claimed by the traders. Bags are mostly fakes and are made in Indonesia, Korea, China, Hong Kong etc. A counterfeit Korean Louis Vuitton wallet costs Rp 100,000. A fake Chinese big ELLE duffel bag was Rp 200,000.

Perfumes from Versace, Giorgio Armani and Chanel join the ranks. The traders don't claim that they are genuine though. A bottle of wannabe chic perfume starts at Rp 50,000. But if you're lucky enough, you can find the genuine article too.

"I can buy genuine stuff at very affordable prices here. They're secondhand, but in good condition," said one bargain hunter.

Jl Surabaya, Central Jakarta, Hours: 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

If buying something unique is on your mind, either for yourself or your friends, just look around Jl Surabaya.

The street is located within the city's plush residential area of Menteng. Occupying one side of the road, this antique goods parade has existed for about 24 years.

Back in the late 60s, there were no shops. The vendors displayed their merchandise on plaited mats. Today, a few shops are even air-conditioned.

Sometimes, the traders get their merchandise by scouring villages across Indonesia or buying from sailors and flight attendants. Occasionally, the previous owners come to them directly to sell their goods.

From the 1960s to the 1980s, there were real Chinese antique ceramics galore at reasonable prices. Chinese works of art included Han, Tang, Song, Imperial Ming and Qing Dynasty ceramics and could be found easily. However, it's very difficult to find authentic ones today.

Old fans, ornate lamps, brassware, gramophone players and little wooden boxes are among the collection here. An old black padlock plus its tiny key were priced at Rp 50,000.

A few shops stock some used electronic items in good condition. Radios, TV sets, CD players from Sony, Philips, McIntosh can be seen.

Some traders sell secondhand CDs, LPs and cassettes. The price itself depends on several things, like the condition of the merchandise, where it was recorded (those made in the USA being the most expensive, followed by Japan), the year it was released and the popularity of the singer/band. LPs mainly range from Rp 10,000 to Rp 30,000. Cassettes vary from Rp 5,000 to Rp 10,000.

Rare and in-demand jazz CDs are the most expensive, at Rp 40,000 to Rp 60,000. Classical music is next. Pop music is the cheapest, starting at about Rp 25,000.

Aficionados of Prada, Louis Vuitton, Versace and other exclusive-brand bags can sometimes find their faves here. Some of them are genuine, some fakes -- made in Indonesia, China, Hong Kong, Korea etc. Prices are similar to Pasar Ular.

"I've just bought some CDs. They still sound great, despite their ragged-looking covers," raved one music lover.

Happy bargain-hunting!