Shoe designer in step with marine marvels

By R. Agus Bakti

YOGYAKARTA (JP): That art and technology are two sides of the same coin is reflected in the footwear designed by Agung Wicaksono, which was displayed at the auditorium of the Indonesian Institute of the Arts in Yogyakarta in early July.

Eight designs under a common theme of marine flora and fauna have been turned into finished products. "I made this footwear to fulfill the requirements for my degree," said the 31-year-old artist, who majored in leather handicrafts.

He said the beauty of the sea inspired him to create the designs, noting that the movement of marine biota created beauty through harmonization and dynamism.

He turned his inspiration into planning and concept. He found little difficulty in blending technology and art because before enrolling in the institute he completed his studies at the Leather Technology College, also in Yogyakarta.

"I must acknowledge there are constraints in creating footwear, especially with respect to comfort," he said, noting it was due to the anatomy of the foot and the materials used.

Wicaksono deals with the constraint by designing various kinds of footwear with unique marine shapes. These include the starfish, rays, cuttlefish, mollusks, jellyfish, shrimps, sea horses and the grouper.

The footwear is only suitable for women and is intended for special occasions, such as parties and fashion shows.

Lines, color range and texture, all constituting important symbols of footwear, are prominent in accenting the fashionable character of the designs.

In principle, footwear must feet. Originally there were two types of footwear, namely sandals, which were open and worn by people in tropical areas, and moccasins, which were closed and usually worn in subtropical areas. Today, however, the moccasin popularly refers to the particular style of footwear with the leather going in a circle to the bottom.

Wicaksono said he made sure the footwear was both practical and pleasing on the eye. "The shoes must be comfortable to wear and reflect decency."

Wicaksono, who underwent training in several large factories in Jakarta, said shoes affected one's appearance in terms of their material and decoration, theme, color, toe shape, sole, the height of the heel and their fastening.

"Although footwear takes up a relatively small space, footwear designers, me included, can always think of an improvement on footwear products," he said.

Laymen looking at Wicaksono's designs might have wondered if they could be turned into actual footwear. The designer took the reverse route, finding the materials, such as leather and suede, which were suitable for his designs.

Most of the shoes give a bright impression, which is accentuated by the colors chosen and high heels often over 5 cm. Low heels are found only in footwear of the theme of starfish and mollusks. The unusual designs make for excellent party shoes.

The colors chosen are generally red, orange, green and light gray. Darker colors such as brown, black and dark green are brightened with use of silver and gold in the accessories.

The shoe texture depends on the materials. Suede leather has a softer and more regular texture than the other materials. Split cowhide has a rougher texture than the suede of sheep skin. This texture helps accentuate accessories and will not create a flashy appearance.

The accessories are dominated by the colors gold and silver, a combination reinforcing the impression of an extravaganza of brilliance. Accessories include beads, buttons, gold or silver threads and tufts.

Most of Wicaksono's footwear is open-toed.

"The same is also true of the sandals with marine biota as their decoration. I use a glue/cementing system reinforced with pressing. This construction is generally used for footwear that we usually find in the market."

Mechanical and manual processes are used in making the footwear, although it appears to be crafted by hand. Machinery is needed for difficult parts of the processing requiring strength.

"Actually, his works can serve as breakthroughs with which other designs can be introduced," said leather goods expert Nuraini Indrati. "These products may be exposed nationally and then internationally."

Indrati, also a lecturer at the Leather Technology College, added the theme of nature was interesting to explore. She said Wicaksono's works were "special" in this respect and showed the country possessed a shoe designer on a par with those abroad.

Wicaksono said he wanted to show his designs in other parts of the country, including Jakarta, which is generally regarded as the barometer for fashion in the country.

The father of a son said his choice of theme reflected his deep concern for marine life.

"When I use this marine life theme for my footwear, I hope it will attract people to pay more attention to this area. In this way, my works will serve as an effective bridge of communication."