Shoe designer in step with marine marvels

Shoe designer in step with marine marvels

By R. Agus Bakti

YOGYAKARTA (JP): That art and technology are two sides of the
same coin is reflected in the footwear designed by Agung
Wicaksono, which was displayed at the auditorium of the
Indonesian Institute of the Arts in Yogyakarta in early July.

Eight designs under a common theme of marine flora and fauna
have been turned into finished products. "I made this footwear to
fulfill the requirements for my degree," said the 31-year-old
artist, who majored in leather handicrafts.

He said the beauty of the sea inspired him to create the
designs, noting that the movement of marine biota created beauty
through harmonization and dynamism.

He turned his inspiration into planning and concept. He found
little difficulty in blending technology and art because before
enrolling in the institute he completed his studies at the
Leather Technology College, also in Yogyakarta.

"I must acknowledge there are constraints in creating
footwear, especially with respect to comfort," he said, noting it
was due to the anatomy of the foot and the materials used.

Wicaksono deals with the constraint by designing various kinds
of footwear with unique marine shapes. These include the
starfish, rays, cuttlefish, mollusks, jellyfish, shrimps, sea
horses and the grouper.

The footwear is only suitable for women and is intended for
special occasions, such as parties and fashion shows.

Lines, color range and texture, all constituting important
symbols of footwear, are prominent in accenting the fashionable
character of the designs.

In principle, footwear must feet. Originally there were two
types of footwear, namely sandals, which were open and worn by
people in tropical areas, and moccasins, which were closed and
usually worn in subtropical areas. Today, however, the moccasin
popularly refers to the particular style of footwear with the
leather going in a circle to the bottom.

Wicaksono said he made sure the footwear was both practical
and pleasing on the eye. "The shoes must be comfortable to wear
and reflect decency."

Wicaksono, who underwent training in several large factories
in Jakarta, said shoes affected one's appearance in terms of
their material and decoration, theme, color, toe shape, sole, the
height of the heel and their fastening.

"Although footwear takes up a relatively small space, footwear
designers, me included, can always think of an improvement on
footwear products," he said.

Laymen looking at Wicaksono's designs might have wondered if
they could be turned into actual footwear. The designer took the
reverse route, finding the materials, such as leather and suede,
which were suitable for his designs.

Most of the shoes give a bright impression, which is
accentuated by the colors chosen and high heels often over 5 cm.
Low heels are found only in footwear of the theme of starfish and
mollusks. The unusual designs make for excellent party shoes.

The colors chosen are generally red, orange, green and light
gray. Darker colors such as brown, black and dark green are
brightened with use of silver and gold in the accessories.

The shoe texture depends on the materials. Suede leather has a
softer and more regular texture than the other materials. Split
cowhide has a rougher texture than the suede of sheep skin. This
texture helps accentuate accessories and will not create a flashy
appearance.

The accessories are dominated by the colors gold and silver, a
combination reinforcing the impression of an extravaganza of
brilliance. Accessories include beads, buttons, gold or silver
threads and tufts.

Most of Wicaksono's footwear is open-toed.

"The same is also true of the sandals with marine biota as
their decoration. I use a glue/cementing system reinforced with
pressing. This construction is generally used for footwear that
we usually find in the market."

Mechanical and manual processes are used in making the
footwear, although it appears to be crafted by hand. Machinery is
needed for difficult parts of the processing requiring strength.

"Actually, his works can serve as breakthroughs with which
other designs can be introduced," said leather goods expert
Nuraini Indrati. "These products may be exposed nationally and
then internationally."

Indrati, also a lecturer at the Leather Technology College,
added the theme of nature was interesting to explore. She said
Wicaksono's works were "special" in this respect and showed the
country possessed a shoe designer on a par with those abroad.

Wicaksono said he wanted to show his designs in other parts of
the country, including Jakarta, which is generally regarded as
the barometer for fashion in the country.

The father of a son said his choice of theme reflected his
deep concern for marine life.

"When I use this marine life theme for my footwear, I hope it
will attract people to pay more attention to this area. In this
way, my works will serve as an effective bridge of
communication."