Sheetal's: Fabulous grub, shame about the pub!

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

There's no doubt about it, Indian pubs are now taking up where Irish pubs left off, and are establishing themselves a well- earned reputation for good drink, food and service all around the globe.

And, of course, Jakarta is no exception.

The first subcontinental watering hole (for want of a better phrase), to set up shop here in the big smoke was the New Age Pub, which you'll still find dispensing its heady brews as languorously and exotically as ever over that fine North Indian eatery, Hazara, on Jl. Wahid Hasyim in Central Jakarta.

Long the sole exemplar of an Indian pub in Jakarta, New Age suddenly found itself facing a worthy competitor last year in the form of Fez Bar way down south in Kemang.

But there was more to come. Shortly after Fez flung open its doors, another potentially serious rival set up shop in the North Tower of the Jamsostek building on Jl. Gatot Subroto, South Jakarta. This was Sheetal's, a pub and restaurant that myself and the sidekick decided to visit for a quick tipple, or four, shortly before Xmas.

So what's it like? Well, let's start with looks and overall impressions.

Big is the first word that comes to mind as you meander in through the magnificent double doors of Sheetal's, past the luxuriously appointed reception area into the restaurant proper.

The perception of serious bigness becomes even more profound at this stage as you gaze around at the vast reaches of the great chandeliered, red, cream and gold dining salon, as large and luxurious as a palatial banqueting hall. Big enough, in fact, to almost make a timorous soul flee in terror were it not for the tantalizing odors of all sorts of exotic goodies assailing the nostrils.

But, for your's truly and sidekick, two tired old hacks with thirsts as big as their egos, the main attraction was the bar (needless to say!).

It is at this stage of the proceedings in Sheetal's, however, that a feeling of dread may possibly start to claw its way up from the crotch of the average punter for, as he is sidled up to by one of the exceedingly glamorous Sheetal's hostesses, he suddenly realizes with a level of horror approaching despair that the bar is ensconced far, far away at the other end of the vast hall, past endless rows of crowded tables and staring diners.

Such was the unenviable, and almost distressing, position that myself and the parched sidekick found ourselves in that night before Xmas. But must do is a great master, as they say, and with a resolve and determination second to none, we decided to run the gauntlet and, what seemed like an eternity later, finally arrived at our bacchanalian rendezvous none the worse for all the stares.

Was the expedition through the lion's den worth it? Well, yes and no.

No in the sense that the bar was deserted, despite the fact that Sheetal's was otherwise pretty crowded, but yes in the sense that beer is beer and is never to be sniffed at!

As for ambience, well, this isn't the sort of bar that could be described as being in any sense convivial. Long, white bright and spartan, as well as knuckle-numbingly cold (some mean air-con system), it's the kind of place where you might chance a quick tipple before quickly demanding a table in the dining room and relief in the form of some fiery fodder to get the blood circulating again.

I also found the bar staff to be somewhat overbearing and rather cheeky in a smirking, "Hello Mister" kind of way.

And so it was that we gave the bar up as a bad job, even though topping up at the trough was the original purpose of our visit to Sheetal's, and decided instead to take solace in the delights of some good ol' North Indian cuisine.

And thus it came to pass that large quantities of truly delectable rogan josh (chunks of marinated mutton cooked in an onion-based gravy) and luscious murgh peshawari (tandoori chicken marinated in yogurt, herbs and spices) were dispatched rapidly to the nether regions, rather than the intended, equally large quantities of iron brew.

And like many another Indian restaurant in Jakarta, they also do a line in scrumptious Chinese delicacies.

But great food is not all that this particular venue has to offer. For Sheetal's also features a live Indian band up on the stage every night churning out lots of romantic Hindi ditties that should have all those with Indian blood in their veins sobbing into their shorba.

And, given the current mania here in the big smoke for all things Bollywood, or thereabouts, this endearing ensemble could well prove a major draw for local punters as well.

As the night drew to a close, we decided on the whole that we'd made the right move by forgoing our boozy pleasures at the bar -- which was still as deserted and frigid-looking as Vladivostok on a bad night.

And so, rather than ending up like some turn-of-the-century polar explorers, frozen solid with long icicles hanging from our noses, we eventually took our leave fully sated in a pleasant, burning kind of way, and still curiously lucid and steady on the feet.

Verdict: Great food but give the bar a wide berth -- unless you're well wrapped up in your winter woollies, that is!

Sheetal's, Indian-Chinese Restaurant & Pub, Menara Utara, Gedung Jamsostek Lt. 9, Jl. Jend. Gatot Subroto No. 38, South Jakarta. You can call them at 529-62007. All major credit cards accepted.