Senayan sports complex doubles as shopping mall

Senayan sports complex doubles as shopping mall

By Carl Chairul

JAKARTA (JP): When the late Indonesian president Sukarno
instructed his aides to build Gelora Senayan for the fourth Asian
Games 40 years ago, all he had in mind was the largest sports
complex in Asia.

Over time, tracts of the huge area, originally measuring 280
hectares, have been gradually converted into different business
premises such as hotels, shopping malls, office buildings and
apartments. Even traditional vendors have played a part in the
area's face-lift.

Every Sunday morning, Gelora Senayan, which is now gearing up
for the 14th SEA Games, turns into a huge market selling a wide
variety of goods. Vendors flock to the area because 10,000 people
exercise in the complex every weekend. Serious sports lovers and
those intent on a more leisurely work-out all present a
profitable market.

For those not obsessed with luxury, and willing to overlook
concerns of authenticity, Gelora Senayan is an exciting place to
shop. Where else are products bearing famous brandnames like
Pierre Cardin or Louis Vuitton sold next to a satay carriage?
Only at Senayan can you bargain for a pair of Gucci watches while
enjoying a bowl of chicken porridge.

If entering the area from the eastern parking lot, you will be
greeted by a flock of vendors selling sports gear, ranging from
cheap swimming trunks, headbands, and sneakers to expensive
bicycles.

Further to the north is a group of food vendors using modified
minibuses as stalls, similar to the Moko mobile shops introduced
a while back. No time to eat breakfast at home? Then take your
pick from ketupat sayur (rice steamed in coconut leaves served
with vegetables), fried rice, steamed noodles with meatballs,
nasi pecel (rice and vegetables in peanut sauce) and many more.

The route to fancy merchandise is through Gate VI. This area
is just like the ground floor of a multistory department store
where expensive items, usually notable brands, are displayed.
Goods are displayed attractively on minivans, tents or hoods of
luxury cars parked along the entrance way.

Most of the famous brands are not genuine. Among the
cosmetics, a bottle of men's cologne supposedly from Estee Lauder
sells for only Rp 15,000.

"We are not pirates," a vendor said vehemently. "The secret is
that we buy the pure concentrate, mix it with alcohol and funnel
it into the original bottles. It smells just the same as the one
sold in big department stores. We can offer a much lower price
because we don't have to pay for luxurious rental space, tax and
manpower."

There are some bona fide articles. A minibus, parked in front
of the entrance, brimmed with household items from Silungkang, a
small West Sumatran village famous for its handicrafts. There
were traditional brooms made of ijuk sugar palm fiber, wooden
sandals, chili grinders, dusters, vases and an array of kitchen
utensils.

What is so special about the traditional items?

"Nostalgia," answered a middle-aged woman holding a pair of
wooden sandals. "They bring back memories of the olden days. I
haven't heard the noise of wooden sandals since I left my village
decades ago."

These purchases may be just the beginning of a shopping spree.
The real "market" is located along the track in the main stadium,
where the sound of orders from gymnastic instructors competes
with boisterous shouting of vendors offering their goods.

Although dominated by food and toys, almost all types of goods
are sold here at relatively low price, provided you are a tough
bargainer. Three pairs of shorts cost a mere Rp 10,000. Sweats
that could be Rp 30,000 at a regular store sell for just Rp 7,000
at Senayan. And wait till see the "imported" frying pan.

It may be a stretch to tie frying pans and sandals to sports,
but the vendors know that somebody will buy their goods.

Hakim, a street vendor originally from Aceh, said that Sunday
morning at Senayan was his favorite time of the week. On
weekdays, he usually does his business, selling toys, cassettes,
and imitation accessories around Pasar Rumput terminal, South
Jakarta.

"I earn Rp 35,000 net only for three or four hours here. And
that is twice as much as I get all day at Pasar Rumput," he said
happily, dancing to the dangdut song Selamat Malam by Evie
Tamala.

Parluhutan, his roommate who sells T-shirts, belts, socks and
underwear, agreed.

"But I don't come every Sunday," he said. "Sometimes, when I
don't feel like trading, I just leave everything to Hakim who
comes here regularly."

Not all vendors are from the low-income level. Donny is a
student at a prestigious university in Jakarta. He uses his
father's car to display his merchandise consisting of imported
shirts, jeans and T-shirts from Cihampelas, Bandung.

He said there was another aim to selling his goods at Senayan.
"This is more like a promotion," he said as he handed out his
name card. "I am the sole distributor of these products."

Nearby was a VW station wagon with three young women clad in
faded blue jeans and T-shirts. They hawked health drinks and
juices.

"We've sold out all of our merchandise," said Sinta, pointing
to the empty buckets.

Just like a mall, Senayan sports complex also offers services.
If you are in doubt about the future or when you are going to get
a spouse, a fortune teller will be happy to put you at ease.

Tired after the morning's exercise? An experience masseur is
available at an affordable price, providing you are comfortable
with an open-air service. The masseur even claims to be able to
heal a broken leg.

"It's healthy shopping," cooed a TV actor, holding up her
purchase of a straw laundry basket. "I can do a little exercise,
have my favorite waffle with a glass of honeydew melon juice, and
then I can spend hours shopping for things I can't find in
supermarkets."

When the heat starts to get unbearable, the area empties
except for mounds of trash and the big question: Will Gelora
Senayan one day become exclusively for sports again?