Seminar discusses acne and its prevention

JAKARTA (JP): In contrast to its relatively small size, Acne vulgaris, or the simple pimple, can become a big problem and lead to inferiority complexes and social embarrassment.

Small pimples, hidden on the cheek are harmless and bearable. But a big, awfully red one impolitely perched on the tip of a girl's nose could keep her from her boyfriend for days.

The problem isn't confined to the pimple's owner. Friends' may find the red, suppurated bumps revolting.

"Just imagine if you have to kiss them," exclaimed psychologist Tika Bisono, one of the speakers at a one-day seminar on acne and its prevention held by the School of Medicine at the University of Indonesia recently.

The seminar, which attracted 400 people -- mostly young women -- also featured dermatologists Aryani Sudharmono Ruswan and Lily Soepardiman, nutrition expert Savitri Sayogo and head of the Indonesian Consumers Protection Agency Zoemrotin K. Susilo. A skin care demonstration to prevent pimples was given by La Tulipe cosmetics.

The skin condition, mainly suffered by teenagers, attacks hair follicles and the philosebaceous (sebaceous) gland, and unfortunately appears on fully exposed areas such as the face and neck. Although pimples can also form on the chest, shoulders, back and upper arms, zits are most embarrassing when protruding from the proboscis. Pimples grow if there is any blockage of the sebaceous gland. If the blockage grows, a pimple appears on the skin. Improperly treated acne can leave scars.

It is still unclear what actually produces pimples. Dermatologists suspect that genes, hormones and microbe infections may contribute to the production of pimples. Race is also cited as one suspected factor since, according to research, people with fair coloring have more pimples than dark-skinned people.

Diet, climate, humidity, medicine, psychology, cosmetics, ultra-violet rays and personal habits like scratching and squeezing the skin are also believed to promote the production of pimples, said dermatologist Aryani.

Those with oily skin are more vulnerable to acne because the more oil the skin produces, the more pimples appear. When choosing cosmetics, therefore, avoiding oil-based products is recommended. Taking care of the skin and using cosmetics which contain materials like sulfur and carbony methyl cystein will also limit the oils produced.

Keeping the skin clean is paramount for those with pimples. But it is important to remember that an aggressive cleaning doesn't guarantee that the pimples will be healed. The simplest skin cleaner is soap, but due to its alkali content, soap can harm the skin if used over a long period. It can destroy the skin's fat layers and increase dryness.

Harm

A new product known as synthetic detergent or syndet or soapless soap is being marketed as cleanser bars or dermatological bars. Syndet, however, can also harm the skin's fat layers but to a lesser degree since syndet's pH level is between 4.5 and 5, the same as the skin's natural pH level. The advantage of syndet is that it doesn't deposit calcium or magnesium ionic, which can block hair follicles and the sebaceous gland.

Milk cleanser should be rinsed away with water after cleaning the skin so no trace of the cleanser is left.

Those with oily skin can also use alcohol-based toner which can shrink the pores, said Lily Soepardiman.

People with acne should apply oil-free moisturizer which doesn't contain comedogenic components like lanolin, Vaseline, surfactant, detergent and color substances D and C no.9, 19 and 27.

"It is important to check a cosmetic product's contents, but unfortunately not all products list their contents," said consumer defender Zoemrotin.

Reducing the skin's ephitel, which causes roughness and dullness, is also important. But, for those with problem pimples, it is advisable not to use products which contain crude particles like almond grains. A peeling mask is more appropriate for people with oily skin because it absorbs the oil. Sulfur can be added to the mask as well. It is best to have a beautician or dermatologist squeeze the pimples before applying the mask.

Carefully selecting a beautician or beauty salon is imperative because using dirty or unsterilized needles to treat pimples can spread viruses, including HIV.

Comedogenic-free sun block or sun cream should be used to protect the skin from strong UV rays.

Researchers say that UV rays are a two-sided coin for pimple sufferers. On one side, the UV rays are very useful because they have a light anti-inflammatory effect and tanning can hide the pimples; on the other side, the rays can toughen the skin which in turn increases the sebaceous gland's blockage, explained Lily.

Cosmetics which can cover pimples can help acne sufferers feel better but can cause side effects like cosmetics acne.

However, if cosmetics are needed, it is better to choose a water-based foundation which is oil free. A liquid foundation is most appropriate because it doesn't intensify the blockage of the sebaceous gland.

Loose powder is more suitable for pimpled faces. Pressed powder usually has mineral oil or isopropyl miristat which is comedogenic.

Blush can be used as long as it is comedogenic free. It is better to use powdered eye cosmetics than creams.

Proper treatment and the use of proper cosmetics do not only help heal pimples, but also provide acne sufferers more self- confidence.

"But, it is important to eliminate the myth that steam can cure pimples. Heat and humidity will in fact hamper the release of skin fat," said Lily. (als)