Seeing orangutans at their devilish best needs caution

Text and photos by Mulkan Salmona

LANGKAT, North Sumatra (JP): I was panting from exhaustion after trekking up the sequestered trail in the woods of the Bohorok rehabilitation center for orangutans. Peals of laughter punctured the silent domain, and I stepped up the pace in the hope of stumbling upon the find.

I was rejuvenated by the sight of dozens of foreigners entranced and gloriously entertained by orangutans romping around, gobbling down the bananas and milk fed by two keepers.

Their cameras focused on the ambling lot, some tourists had barely suppressed smiles, while others gave in to raucous laughter.

The tourists, mostly Europeans, were reluctant to leave even as keepers reminded them of the impending 4 p.m. closing time. Feeding hours for these disarmingly innocent, soulful-eyed creatures at the rehabilitation location is the most popular among the tourists.

With this in mind, visiting hours are fixed in accordance with feeding time -- 8 a.m. to 9 a.m., and 3 p.m. to 4 p.m.

The bare necessities must be remembered by visitors. Marked with steep mountainous trails, the trek to the orangutan abode within Mount Leuser National Park is best tackled with caution, especially after rainfall. Trekking boots or athletic shoes are recommended.

Hats, cameras and other basic needs should be brought and guarded closely; the animals are in the habit of catching visitors by surprise to grab an item, climbing up a tree, fiddling until bored with the new-found plaything, before tossing it away with disdain.

The 200-hectare rehabilitation center is situated within the national park in Bohorok, Bukit Lawang, Langkat. Scenic views add to the tranquil allure, and canoeing on the Bohorok River has not lost its traditional charm, even as the canoe takes the form of a used inner tube.

The main gate to the location is situated within the Bukit Lawang arena, 96 kilometers from the city of Medan. A car or bus ride would take approximately three hours. A minibus or van can be rented for Rp 70,000 (about US$28) a day at the Polonia airport.

For travelers on a tight budget, a bus ride from the Pinang Baris terminal at Medan to Bukit Lawang would suffice at Rp 3,000 per head. Since vehicles from Medan direct to Bukit Lawang are scarce, another alternative would be a bus ride to Binjai at Rp 500 per head, followed by a minivan ride from Binjai terminal to Bukit Lawang for Rp 3,000.

The entrance fee to Bukit Lawang is Rp 1,000. Small food stalls provide sustenance before beginning the two-kilometer trek to the center. Another Rp 2,000 fee is paid at the National Park office to enter the site. It usually takes 20 minutes to reach the site at a normal pace.

Standing in line for the single boat is dreary but unavoidable. Another Rp 1,000 is forked out, and the journey ends. A stop at the National Park office has the usual entrance procedures which are over in no time. A tour guide will be assigned to direct you to the much-awaited spot.

Another journey traversing one slope after another begins. But scrambling to find your camera is more of a concern than tired limbs, as the orangutans pout, prance and perform to everyone's delight.