Sun, 13 Jan 2002

Searching for ambience in a bowl

Kenny Santana, Contributor, Jakarta

Start practicing your chopsticks skills, guys! The noodle bar trend is coming to town, from the busiest hangout on the streets of Jakarta to the comfy boutique restaurants and food courts in shopping malls.

See what they have done to attract customers: They decorate their dining areas as hip, funky bars with noodles featured as the main dish on the menu.

In Chinese culture, noodles are a symbol of longevity. Eating noodles at birthdays has become a tradition, in the hope that the birthday celebrant will have a long life.

Noodles have become a part of most Indonesian homes, and also in other Asian countries, not only for birthday celebrations but as part of the daily diet as well. Instant noodles can be found in the kitchen cupboard of most families, especially those who live in the fast lane, because they are quick and easy to prepare.

Step out of your house and you can get a bowl of noodles from a noodle vendor for just Rp 2,500. Even after clubbing time at dawn, you'll bump into an internet a.k.a indomie telor kornet (instant noodles with egg and corned beef) from any food stall throughout town.

The problem is not everyone feels comfortable having a delicious bowl of noodles on a dusty sidewalk of Jakarta -- their shirt or blouse damp with perspiration.

It's quite an experience for some, but noodle bar owners know that there are some who prefer a great atmosphere to eat their noodles in while chilling out with friends. So along came the noodle bars.

One of the favorable things about these places is that the prices won't drain your wallet. Almost all items on the menu in the places I visited have set a price of less than Rp. 30.000 per portion. This is an indicator of why these places have become the place to hang out lately. Besides coziness, they are reasonably cheap.

As a proof of the boom, let's take a look at Chopstix. After opening their first outlet in Kemang, South Jakarta, Chopstix is expanding by opening a branch in Plaza Indonesia.

When asked what is motivating them to do this, manager Simon Halim said, "We're pretty sure about the food and beverage industry in Jakarta, that's why we opened Chopstix in the first place. And after the first one in Kemang, we'd like to open in another prime recreation area, in this case Plaza Indonesia." He added that he's sees the noodle bar trend growing.

Well, like I said before, why don't you begin to learn how to use chopsticks right away so you can act like a pro in noodle bars.

Chopstix, Jl. Kemang Raya 17. Tel. 7191115

Their menu varies from the noodle section to the usual rice dishes, offering Laksa Singapore to salted fish and fried rice (Rp 13,500). Their special appetizer, the Lumpia chopstix, which is actually three pieces of cakwe (thick batter covered squid and chicken), served with mayonnaise sauce is extraordinarily yummy. I guarantee you won't be able to stop at just one portion.

Chopstix is also one of the very few places in Jakarta that serve banana shakes (too bad they put chocolate syrup in it). All the dishes are tasty and prices are very reasonable. The place is a bit small, which means that you can overhear the gossip in the next table. The interior is minimalist, with a nice open kitchen concept.

They don't accept payment with any credit or debit cards. Be sure to take some food home so you can see their cute slick packaging! A pleasant eatery -- recommended. The new branch in Plaza Indonesia just opened early this month.

Mangkok Putih, Jl. Lamandau Raya No. 18. Tel: 7237948, 7254516

Located in a small street across from Aquarius Mahakam record store, Mangkok Putih is a part of Stage, which consists of boutiques, a salon, and an interior design shop.

You'll spot some local celebrities here, since it's one of the places to be seen these days. Almost everything on the menu is appetizing, but the portions are too small. Don't forget to try their delicious Pad Thai and pineapple fried rice. Iced tea is refillable; nice. If healthy food is your obsession, then Mangkok Putih claims it never uses MSG in their food. They also deliver. In their newsletter they promised to hold a fashion show every two months. Very promising. If only the portions were bigger ...

Wwwok!, Jl. Kemang Raya No. 9 J-K. Tel. 7193928

A pioneer in the concept of serving noodles in a funky bar setting. Well, the others can only follow -- to borrow a line from a commercial. The ambience makes this place a hip hang out for many Jakartans, thanks to the pool table and Internet access.

They have more variety of dishes on the menu than any of the noodle bars mentioned above. The restaurant used to be open 24 hours. What a shame it now only opens until 2 a.m. (during weekends).

Sit upstairs where the atmosphere is alive. Everything here is lively and full of flavor from appetizers (shrimp wonton) to desserts (ketan hitam). Vegetarian dishes are available. They also have a wide arrange of cocktails and even wine.

Taichan, Plaza Senayan, Third Floor No. 312C. Tel. 5725262

Calling itself a Japanese restaurant, Taichan is known to most people as a place to get ramen (Japanese noodles). It is always packed out; the queue usually extending out of the restaurant.

The specialty here is their ramen with chunky pieces of beef, chicken or pork. But they also serve fried noodles (yaki soba) or for those who believe a meal is not a meal without rice, they have tempura with rice and rice curry.

The yaki soba is not so special, so better stick to their delicious ramen. The orange juice I sipped tasted a little too watery.

But when you're trapped in a mall on a Sunday afternoon, and you feel like having some ramen, Taichan is the place to be. The one in Plaza Indonesia has a better selection of dishes and desserts.

Saburo Cafi Noodle, Plaza Menteng, Ground Floor, Jl. HOS Cokroaminoto No. 79. Tel. 3143269, 3140937

The newest eatery among all the places mentioned above. For starters, the appetizers here are not tasty. The decor is not very interesting, thus it makes the atmosphere more like a family restaurant than a place you would choose to hang out with your herd.

The main course is not bad, with a ramen, noodle specialty course, and rice set in their menu. Order their nice chicken teriyaki -- a perfect portion of tender boneless chicken breast with teriyaki sauce, served with miso soup and salad.

The beverage section is far more creative with their two flavors blended (mocha and coffee) plus smoothies that taste just like candy in your mouth. My dining experience usually closes with dessert, but they don't have anything for your sweet tooth here. Too bad.

But with their tasty main course and good service, Saburo is a fine place if you don't care much about appetizers, desserts and a funky atmosphere.