Savoring 'ikan bakar' against backdrop of Jakarta at night

JAKARTA (JP): Ikan bakar or barbecued fish is a classic Indonesian dish, and one that is always worth looking out for. Though many regions claim it as one of their own specialties, its origins are surely universal, going back to the time when humans first discovered fire and shortly after, we presume, discovered that flesh tastes nicer after it has been left in proximity to it.

These days, wherever it's eaten, there are almost always two things that accompany it. The first is rice and the second is sweet sticky soy sauce poured over finely chopped green chilies and shallots. With these two things it is often enough a meal in itself. Though when a second red sambal is added and lalap, a simple salad consisting of cucumber, green beans and daun kemanggi (a distinctively scented leaf which goes by the Latin name of Ocimum Basilicum), then a good meal is almost assured.

Epicurus has enjoyed it in many places within Indonesia: From the top of the country -- on a windy night on an Acehnese beach right down to the bottom, in a Chinese restaurant perched over Kupang's harbor in East Nusa Tenggara. And more recently slap in the middle of the country, in the center of Jakarta's business district.

Warung Tenda Semanggi and Kedai Bis Tingkat are two food courts situated opposite each other, just off the Semanggi overpass and behind the Jakarta Stock Exchange building. They are difficult to miss as Kedai Bis Tingkat consists entirely of restaurants in old double decker buses. The two places are a pleasant alternative to a cheap roadside eating house or an expensive hotel restaurant, and in both atmosphere and price they go someway in spanning the divide between the two.

Legend has it that as a result of the 1997 economic crisis, the nation's artistes and singers could no longer afford to eat out in hotels, and moreover they were running short of rupiah themselves, so they decided to open up warungs that they dubbed tendas or tents. The 100 or so restaurants, each serving mostly Indonesian food, are a continuation of this trend.

There were no artistes present in the Glenmore double decker bus restaurant on the night Epicurus showed up, though the karaoke system on the lower deck of the bus caters for would-bes.

We sat on the top deck and ordered barbecued gold fish and squid, salad with Thousand Island dressing and rice. As was feared, the salad was a mistake. It was far too big and its dressing overdone. The rice drew some complaints but it tasted just fine to me, while the squid was judged too chewy but then isn't it always? The fish came crispy and black on the outside, and soft and white in the middle.

The service was good, polite and friendly, and the setting unique. With a beer and a juice the bill came to a reasonable Rp 62,000. However, if you feel the urge to ask the waiter for a single ticket to Kota or whether he goes via Monas, stop yourself: Take it from me, he's heard 'em all before.

A week later, and across the street in the Warung Tenda, we visited Marlin Ikan Bakar restaurant. Pleasantly busy on a Sunday night it proved to be a good choice. Make no mistake, this is a great place for ikan bakar. All the elements mentioned above fresh fish, rice, 2 kinds of sambal and lalap were present. We ordered just those and it was all that we needed, though for those who want to try other kinds of seafood, there is plenty to choose from, along with vegetable dishes prepared in an Indo/Chinese fashion.

This time the rice was judged perfect by all those present, and the fish, two large gurame and a bakap, were also well received. The price came to Rp 110, 000 for four with seven plates of rice and a drink a piece.

Both venues are open until late and there is a large parking lot close by. On weekends it can get very crowded, though on the times Epicurus has visited it's been more bustling than hassling. It appears the owners of the site know they're on to a good thing and are anxious to keep it that way. It's tidy and organized, and even the buskers are licensed with badges pinned to their shirts.

The place might not be there forever. The waiter at the Belmont hinted that if the price was right, then in a few years the land could well be occupied by a skyscraper, joining the many which encircle the site. Ironic that, when you consider that the great views of these buildings is one of the major attractions of eating out here in the first place.

-- Epicurus