Savoring 'ikan bakar' against backdrop of Jakarta at night

Savoring 'ikan bakar' against backdrop of Jakarta at night

JAKARTA (JP): Ikan bakar or barbecued fish is a classic
Indonesian dish, and one that is always worth looking out for.
Though many regions claim it as one of their own specialties, its
origins are surely universal, going back to the time when humans
first discovered fire and shortly after, we presume, discovered
that flesh tastes nicer after it has been left in proximity to
it.

These days, wherever it's eaten, there are almost always two
things that accompany it. The first is rice and the second is
sweet sticky soy sauce poured over finely chopped green chilies
and shallots. With these two things it is often enough a meal in
itself. Though when a second red sambal is added and lalap, a
simple salad consisting of cucumber, green beans and daun
kemanggi (a distinctively scented leaf which goes by the Latin
name of Ocimum Basilicum), then a good meal is almost assured.

Epicurus has enjoyed it in many places within Indonesia: From
the top of the country -- on a windy night on an Acehnese beach
right down to the bottom, in a Chinese restaurant perched over
Kupang's harbor in East Nusa Tenggara. And more recently slap in
the middle of the country, in the center of Jakarta's business
district.

Warung Tenda Semanggi and Kedai Bis Tingkat are two food
courts situated opposite each other, just off the Semanggi
overpass and behind the Jakarta Stock Exchange building. They are
difficult to miss as Kedai Bis Tingkat consists entirely of
restaurants in old double decker buses. The two places are a
pleasant alternative to a cheap roadside eating house or an
expensive hotel restaurant, and in both atmosphere and price they
go someway in spanning the divide between the two.

Legend has it that as a result of the 1997 economic crisis,
the nation's artistes and singers could no longer afford to eat
out in hotels, and moreover they were running short of rupiah
themselves, so they decided to open up warungs that they dubbed
tendas or tents. The 100 or so restaurants, each serving mostly
Indonesian food, are a continuation of this trend.

There were no artistes present in the Glenmore double decker
bus restaurant on the night Epicurus showed up, though the
karaoke system on the lower deck of the bus caters for would-bes.

We sat on the top deck and ordered barbecued gold fish and
squid, salad with Thousand Island dressing and rice. As was
feared, the salad was a mistake. It was far too big and its
dressing overdone. The rice drew some complaints but it tasted
just fine to me, while the squid was judged too chewy but then
isn't it always? The fish came crispy and black on the outside,
and soft and white in the middle.

The service was good, polite and friendly, and the setting
unique. With a beer and a juice the bill came to a reasonable Rp
62,000. However, if you feel the urge to ask the waiter for a
single ticket to Kota or whether he goes via Monas, stop
yourself: Take it from me, he's heard 'em all before.

A week later, and across the street in the Warung Tenda, we
visited Marlin Ikan Bakar restaurant. Pleasantly busy on a Sunday
night it proved to be a good choice. Make no mistake, this is a
great place for ikan bakar. All the elements mentioned above
fresh fish, rice, 2 kinds of sambal and lalap were present. We
ordered just those and it was all that we needed, though for
those who want to try other kinds of seafood, there is plenty to
choose from, along with vegetable dishes prepared in an
Indo/Chinese fashion.

This time the rice was judged perfect by all those present,
and the fish, two large gurame and a bakap, were also well
received. The price came to Rp 110, 000 for four with seven
plates of rice and a drink a piece.

Both venues are open until late and there is a large parking
lot close by. On weekends it can get very crowded, though on the
times Epicurus has visited it's been more bustling than hassling.
It appears the owners of the site know they're on to a good thing
and are anxious to keep it that way. It's tidy and organized, and
even the buskers are licensed with badges pinned to their shirts.

The place might not be there forever. The waiter at the
Belmont hinted that if the price was right, then in a few years
the land could well be occupied by a skyscraper, joining the many
which encircle the site. Ironic that, when you consider that the
great views of these buildings is one of the major attractions of
eating out here in the first place.

-- Epicurus