Satariyah is cut above the rest in hairpiece trade

By Gin Kurniawan

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Concerns of practicality may be all the rage for hectic modern lifestyles but some traditions die hard.

Take hairstyles. While many still believe that a full head of hair is a women's crowning glory, short, mannish styles have become acceptable in Indonesian society. But there are events, including wedding receptions and official ceremonies, when women are expected to have traditional hairdos piled into tight twisted buns.

Of course, those with long hair do not have any problems, but others must call on hairpiece makers for assistance in meeting the requirement.

This all keeps Satariyah busy as one of a few people who earn their living making hairpieces and hair extensions.

She learned her trade through observing hairpiece makers in her village. One day, determined to try the art by herself, she let down her grandmother's hairpiece and then fixed it back. She did a better job than the experienced hairpiece makers.

A neighbor was the first to place an order for her hair extensions and set her off on the road to her profession.

Times are hard for makers of the cemara, hairpieces and extensions, as the proliferation of beauty parlors in villages and the trend to short cropped styles for women have made it difficult to find human hair.

"I have problems getting the material," the 71-year-old resident of Yogyakarta said.

The erratic supply of hair caused bankruptcy among many makers of hairpieces who once crowded the area near Satariyah's Cemara Sari kiosk and home at Jl. Naga Kulon 23. Still plentiful in the 1980s, all the hairpiece makers in the vicinity have closed down except for this mother of 13 children and grandmother of 28.

She survived, supported by her nine surviving children, and continued her business of 50 years by adapting to the times. "The decreasing number of longhaired women is actually a boon to the hair extension business."

She produces hair extensions, hairbuns or chignon (sanggul) and teased hairbuns (sasak).

As other makers folded up their business because long hair was in short supply, Satariyah widened her network of hair suppliers as far as Semarang, Demak, Solo, Kebumen in Central Java, and even Tasikmalaya in West Java. In most cases, the supplies come as separate hair collected one by one from hair loss. The hair is usually gathered in villages and purchased by Satariyah for between Rp 3,000 and Rp 4,000 per ounce.

Care and great patience is needed in preparing the hair. The first stage consists of untangling any knots. This is made more difficult when suppliers mix cement with the hair to try to increase the weight and the price.

"When there is cement in hair, it is very hard to loosen the strands," Satariyah said.

After detangling the hair with a comb, 20 to 25 hairs are twisted into one long strand. The coil resembles the shape of a horsetail and is called cemara.

The final treatment is for sterilization from any bacteria and fungus.

The hair is boiled three times. The first process purifies the hair and the second imparts a shine. It is finally boiled with a detergent.

"A clean hair extension does not cause an itchy head," Satariyah said.

The time needed to make a hairpiece depends on its weight. A one-ounce hairpiece takes up to a month, while those weighing one and half ounces would require around one and half months. Demand and the long process of making the hairpieces gives Satariyah hardly enough time to rest.

"I can only rest during meals, when I sleep and pray," she said. When there are many orders, she is forced to work late into the evenings.

Dirty strands of hair are transformed into gorgeous hairpieces in the hands of this illiterate woman. She sells the hair extensions for Rp 10,000 or even Rp 20,000 per ounce. Hairbuns cost between Rp 5,000 to Rp 9,000.

Hairbuns are cheaper because the process of making them is simpler and they are less adaptable. While the hair extension gives the wearer the appearance of long hair and can be coiled into a bun, the hairbun cannot be untied.

Satariyah makes several types of hairbuns. These include Sanggul Ayam Mengeram, or brooding hen, worn directly on top of the head; the Sanggul Bulat round bun worn high at the back of one's head; Sanggul Gantung hanging bun on the nape of the neck; Sanggul Lintang cross bun fixed across from left to right on the back of the head; Sanggul Lipat Pandan, or Pandan folding bun, is worn as the cross bun and consists of two strands which are tied up in the center; and Sanggul Miring Bali, which is worn in the Balinese style, either on the left or right part of the head.

She also makes wigs to order. A wig needs more hair and production costs amount to Rp 75,000. It is no surprise that these can fetch prices of up to Rp 350,000 each.

Satariyah claimed a number of important people among her customers, such as State Minister of Women's Roles Mien Sugandhi, Minister of Social Services Inten Suweno, and actresses Ida Leman, Mieke Wijaya, Widiawati and Dewi Yull.

She said several customers resell her hair extensions abroad.

Orders usually pour in before an auspicious wedding month according to the Javanese calendar. The favored month precedes the Javanese new year, which fell on May 8.

The hair business has changed Satariyah's life for the better. From a poor family in a rural village, she was able to raise her children. She attributes her income from the business to helping her achieve the dream of her life -- participating in the haj pilgrimage last year.

"The pilgrimage was an invaluable blessing for me, and came about all because of the hair business," she said.