Sapu Lidi sweeps all before it in Bandung

BANDUNG (JP): What springs to mind when you hear the name Bandung? The Paris of the East, art deco, the student scene, the cold? All of these perhaps? For me, however, when I hear the name Bandung it always conjures up in my mind images of the gentle Sundanese culture and epicurean delights.

For many, the name Bandung is almost synonymous with good food, and the people of that fine city take a deep and quiet pride in their culinary heritage and skills, a pride that is often found lacking among those staffing the restaurants of Jakarta, that great melting pot where everyone is a blow-in and few deign to call home. Aside from the Betawi (native Jakartans), if you were to ask people on a Jakarta street where they came from, you can rest assured that most would give the name of just about anywhere other than the capital, even if they were born in Jakarta.

Things are different in the capital of West Java, the home of the distinctive Sundanese culture.

The unassuming pride in local culinary traditions and produce that makes Bandung such a delightful place to dine is writ large for all to see at Sapu Lidi on Jl. Cihampelas, the street renowned as the center of Bandung's jeans shops. The words sapu lidi in English mean the little twig broom that is used in Indonesia for light sweeping.

However, this particular restaurant is not just memorable for its name, as both its design and, most importantly, the food it serves are outstanding.

Built around a narrow alleyway and, further in, a courtyard containing a small open-sided Sundanese pavilion, Sapu Lidi consists of a number of small dining rooms, and some secretive semi-private booths, all interconnected and conjoined in a way that suggests the contrasting feelings of intimacy and privacy.

The architecture is reminiscent of what is often referred to as the Indies style, with high ceilings, windows and doors, heavy wood paneling and exposed ceiling beams, giving the simultaneous impression of both sophistication and rusticity. Low lamps hanging over the tables flicker candle-like, serving to increase the intimate and romantic ambience. With the rain coming down in torrents and a black night enveloping all outside, sitting inside Sapu Lidi one could almost imagine oneself wrapped up in a warm and protective cocoon, surrounded by the low buzz of pleasant conversation and the mouthwatering aromas emanating from the kitchen.

Time to order! The menu contained a veritable cornucopia of Sundanese, as well as Javanese and even Chinese, dishes, and we were hard pressed to make a selection. In the end, my partner decided to try the bubur ayam (chicken porridge), a Bandung speciality, accompanied by lumpia geleng (deep fried egg roll with a spicy meat filling) and a portion of kroket lengket (potato croquettes mixed with ground and lightly spiced meat). As for myself, I opted for the sop buntut (Indonesian oxtail soup), followed by ayam jagoan sapulidi (chicken in a Chinese-influenced barbecue sauce) and lumpia leutik (deep fried egg roll with a vegetable filling).

Both of us also ordered plain steamed rice to complement our meal.

Most frequently eaten for breakfast, but not out of place at any time of day, Bandung's bubur ayam is justly famous in many parts of the archipelago. According to my dining companion, it also proved to be just what the doctor ordered on a cold and wet Bandung evening. The porridge had been simmered in chicken broth, the litmus test of good bubur ayam, to imbue it with a delicious, hearty taste, and was topped by a generous portion of shredded chicken, soy sauce and croutons.

Although chicken porridge is a dish primarily intended for immediate sustenance rather than esthetic pleasure, the Sapu Lidi presentation turned out to be a rhapsody of harmoniously arranged colors, with bright green and red chilies shouting out their warnings, enticing soft brown croutons, dark soy sauce and sprightly young sprigs of fennel all competing for the mesmerized eye's attention.

Meanwhile, the sop buntut I had ordered arrived steaming in a solid earthenware bowl sitting inside a delightful wickerwork basket, a superb advertisement on its own for Sudanese handicrafts. Greasy and well-spiced, with starchy potatoes, soft carrots and generous and well-simmered slices of oxtail with the meat literally falling of the bone (the only way to eat this is to get stuck in with the fingers), one couldn't help feeling that the Dutch may have had some influence in the development of this dish. Whatever its origin, however, the subtly spiced broth was superb, perhaps the best exemplar of the dish I've tasted on my travels in Java.

Following the soup, my ayam jagoan sapulidi was promptly served up, as were the meat and vegetable egg rolls, as well as the croquettes my companion had ordered. Once again, superlatives were in no way out of place. The sliced, boneless half chicken was barbecued, with the skin crispy and dry, and was set off to perfection by a tart barbecue sauce, something akin to a sweet and sour sauce but less sweet.

The chicken, tender and cooked to perfection, was accompanied by a cool and refreshing Sundanese salad tastefully arranged on a side plate. All in all, once again a highly satisfying combination of flavors, colors and aromas.

The egg rolls and the croquettes (more Dutch influence), were accompanied by the chef's special sambal (chili) sauce, a mild and sweet sauce which again brought Chinese cuisine to mind. Particular kudos to the chef for his lumpia geleng. Praise is also in order for the outstanding young waiters and waitresses who kept the plates and the drinks coming without a hitch, despite the crowds.

Our meal for two came to a grand total of Rp 82,500 (no alcoholic drinks), exceptionally good value at the present time, doubly so given the excellent quality of the food. There is no doubt that with its combination of great value for money, excellent dining, highly competent staff and a wonderfully evocative atmosphere, Sapu Lidi is way up there with the best of them. Strongly recommended! (Bill Blade)

Sapu Lidi, Jl. Cihampelas 107, Bandung, phone: (022) 2034109