Sam Poo Kong Temple belongs to everyone

SEMARANG (JP): A man and his wife are deeply absorbed in prayer in front of Kyai Jangkar altar in the compound of Sam Poo Kong Temple in Semarang, while holding burning incense sticks in their hands, lifting them several times before finally placing them in a censer.

The scene might be an ordinary one if the man and his wife had not been Muslims and did not wear Muslim attire. The man was clad in a sarong along with a Muslim cap while his wife was wearing Muslim dress and jilbab headdress.

At the Sam Poo Kong temple, however, such a scene is common. The Chinese temple, popularly known as Gedung Batu Temple, is located west of the capital of Central Java, has turned into a public sacred place.

Formerly, the temple was just a cave on the slopes of a rocky hill that was made a temporary shelter for members of a Chinese expedition led by Sam Poo Tay Djien when they first came to Java in 1400.

It was in the cave that Sam Poo Tay Djien, who was also known as Commander Zheng Ho, meditated as well as performed sholat, a Muslim prayer.

Zheng Ho was known as a devoted Chinese Muslim as well as an expert of Buddhism. It was because of his outstanding knowledge that he was given the Buddhist title of Fu San.

When leaving Semarang, Zheng Ho bequeathed a small praying place resembling a temple. The temple was later entirely renovated in October 1724 to hold a greeting ceremony for the arrival of another Chinese marine expedition led by Sam Poo Kong. The peak of the ceremony, which fell on the 30th day of the sixth month, according to the Chinese calendar Imlek, is now celebrated every year as a remembrance of Sam Poo Kong's arrival to the city.

The temple was renovated several times, both during the Dutch and Portuguese occupation of the city.

Formerly, there was only one temple, Gunung Batu Temple, and now there are five of them -- all built in the mixed Chinese and Javanese architectural style, with the characteristic joglo roof style.

The five temples include Tho Tee Kong or Dewa Bumi Temple, Kyai Juru Mudi Temple, Sam Poo Kong Temple, Kyai Jangkar Temple and Kyai Cundrik Bumi Temple. They exclude an additional building for worshiping called Mbah Kyai Tumpeng.

According to a book titled Mengenal Kelenteng Sam Poo Kong (Learning about Sam Poo Kong Temple) published by the Sam Poo Kong Foundation, the cave used by Zheng Ho was destroyed in 1704 and an artificial one was built next to it.

In 1937, Sam Poo Kong Temple was restored and provided with a gate and a garden. During the Japanese occupation, a senior Japanese government official awarded the temple with a written appraisal for Sam Poo Tay Djien framed in a wooden frame. It was also during the Japanese era that electricity was installed in the temple.

During the revolutionary era of 1945 to 1950, the temple fell into a state of disrepair due to lack of maintenance. It was restored in the 1950s but was, again, abandoned during the 1960s because of the uncertain political situation at that time.

Better shape

At present, the five temples at Sam Poo Kong Temple compound are in better shape. A large gate was built at the northern end of the complex. The five temples stretch in line from the north to the southern part of the resort.

One of the temples mostly frequented by Chinese Indonesians seeking to worship and ask for blessings from Dewa Bumi, God of Earth, is Tho Tee Kong Temple at the northern end of the complex.

Those who want blessings for their businesses usually come to Kyai Juru Mudi Temple, located next to Tho Tee Kong Temple. The temple is the burial site of Zheng Ho's deputy Wang Jing Hong, who was also a Muslim.

At the center of the complex, one can find the large Sam Poo Kong Temple and cave. The temple was built right in front of the cave heading to the east. The cave has an altar equipped with various kinds of worshiping accessories along with the statue of Sam Poo Tay Djien. A set of fortuneteller's items are also on display at the cave.

Below the altar, there is an old well whose water is believed to possess the power to cure various diseases and free people from their troubles and difficulties. It is also believed that the well never dries up even during long dry seasons.

At the Sam Poo Kong altar, a gatekeeper is ready to serve visitors with a small ritual where numbers made out of bamboo are shuffled for visitors to pick. The chosen number is then used as a clue for visitors to pick the tjiam si (fortune telling) of Sam Poo Kong Temple. It is in the tjiam si that the visitors' fortune is told in writing. Advice is also provided.

Kyai Jangkar Temple, which is located immediately to the south of the main temple, is called after the name of the anchor of Sam Poo Kong's ship that is currently well-kept and considered sacred. In Indonesian, jangkar means anchor.

Kyai Jangkar Temple also contains altars to worship Commander Zheng Ho's men, who died while carrying out their duties.

Next to Kyai Jangkar Temple, there is Kyai Cundrik Bumi Temple, which was built to worship a weapon belonging to Commander Zheng Ho's troop named Kyai Cundrik Bumi. The place was last restored in 1976.

A worshiping place called Mbah Kyai Tumpeng at the southern edge of the complex is believed to be the place where Sam Poo Kong's followers held thanksgiving ceremonies and performed meditations. Now, visitors usually pray for their welfare at the temple. (Tarko Sudiarno)