Sailing through Ayutthaya's old floating market

Text and photos by Ati Nurbaiti

AYUTTHAYA, Thailand (JP): Ayutthaya, the capital of Thailand from 1350 to 1767, is full of temple ruins which are being restored as much as possible to the times before they were destroyed in a Burmese invasion.

There are regular tourist ferry and bus services to the city, which is about 86 kilometers north of Bangkok.

Though the city's appeal is self-evident, tourist authorities are also trying to draw tourists with attractions like elephant shows.

The city has been declared a World Heritage Site by the United Nations Educational, Scientific and Cultural Organization (UNESCO).

There is another part of the old town that older residents would like to see restored -- a floating market relatively free of tourists, to experience once again the water trade of old cities.

Speaking during lunch overlooking the Chao Phraya, the director of the local branch of the Tourism Authority of Thailand, Chaisong Churitt, said the move could only be successful "if we can convince locals that a river market would be beneficial to them".

The main river is the Chao Phraya, which flows from the central plains through Ayutthaya to Bangkok to the Gulf of Thailand.

"The people here don't only want another tourist spot," he said, although he added that tourists would inevitably be attracted by a floating market, which never ceases to fascinate visitors.

The floating market of Damnoen Saduak in Ratchaburi province, some 104 km southwest of Bangkok, is one market where tourists are said to outnumber vendors. In the daytime women in canoes sell souvenirs and hats for protection against the sun, as well as local produce and snacks.

Former anthropology student Nuan Sarnsorn said the floating market in Chao Phraya used to be a vital means of trade between hillside farmers with their yields and fisherpeople with their freshwater or sea produce.

Ayutthaya was a main rice producer. The canal in which the floating market operated was built about 100 years ago and covers 32 kilometers leading to numerous small streams.

Kitchens all over Bangkok used to get their supplies of rice, vegetables and water melons "of good quality" from the floating market, Sarnsorn said. Chinese functioned as middlemen between merchants and farmers or fishermen. The canal was often used by royalty to inspect their territory, and Chao Phraya is aptly called the River of Kings.

"But then produce diminished because of a decline in soil fertility," Sarnsorn said. With increased roads, he added, "The people there just park their boats and use their cars instead."

The construction of many highways has reduced urbanites' dependence on the many canals, or khlong. Transportation of goods by road is faster and cheaper.

Those who do use express ferries include office workers, students and monks whose destinations are near the river.

"I wouldn't dare," says resident Nipa Nirannoot. "I can't swim," she says, pointing to the crowded ferry on the murky waters.

Floods have caused many families to move inland, while condominiums with a water view are becoming increasingly popular.