Royal staff search for blessings

YOGYAKARTA (JP): Working as abdi dalem (kraton personnel) clearly doesn't pay the bills, but 600 abdi dalem work at Kraton Surakarta for between Rp 20,000 and Rp 50,000 a month. The Mangkunegaran Palace of Surakarta provides a maximum of Rp 100,000.

"I am searching for nothing but blessings," said Sumopawiro who is 60 years old.

An inhabitant of Sukohardjo village in Central Java, Sumopawiro spends his time doing menial jobs from dawn till noon at the kraton. His devotion to Kraton of Surakarta only earns him Rp 20,000 a month, but Sumopawiro is proud to be able to serve Sri Susuhan Pakubuwono XII, the King of Surakarta. To provide for his family, Sumopawiro uses his muscles and tills the land as a farmer.

But changing times mean that not many youngsters are interested in the position of abdi dalem.

"It is understandable. Abdi dalem is a low paid job," said KRMH Wreksodipuro, a Kraton Surakarta royal family member.

Kraton Surakarta has difficulties finding younger people to replace the elderly abdi dalem or those who have passed away. Now, the majority of abdi dalem in Kraton Surakarta are over 50.

Relatives of the royal families are also reluctant to work in the palace. They prefer to work outside and return only after they retire.

For common people, the kraton is still an institution steeped in history and magic. The kraton is mysterious and the guardian of the glory of days long past. Thousands of people flock to traditional ceremonies held at the kraton in hope of blessings.

An elderly woman recently made a long journey to Kraton Surakarta just to take sand from the inner yard of the palace.

"My arthritis will be healed when I use this sand," said the old woman with conviction.

The mystery of the kraton enables it to exist in modern society. (R. Fadjri)