Rift splits ranks of local fashion designers

Rift splits ranks of local fashion designers

JAKARTA (JP): An enduring feud belies the glittering face of
Indonesian fashion.

Many local fashion designers are now clustered in either of
two organizations -- the Indonesian Fashion Design Council (IPMI)
and the Indonesian Fashion Designer Association (APPMI). The
former groups about 39 members and APPMI has 79. Since their
establishment more than a decade ago, they have taken different
paths.

Some established designers prefer to keep out of the fray and
do not belong to the groups.

Samuel Wattimena, a former member of both groups, said, "Well,
the cold war probably occurred since the beginning, many, many
years ago.

"Today, such discord should no longer exist anymore."

A senior member of IPMI, Carmanita Mamboe, explained that each
organization had its own objectives.

"IPMI's members focus more on creativity, esthetics ... on
being a real artist," she said.

APPMI's biggest concern is not only to enhance its members'
design skills but also to empower them to become professional
businesspeople, Samuel said.

"They (designers) must be able to market their products, to
deal with their buyers and join the fashion industry and retail
association."

He added curtly that any rivalry between the two organizations
was probably the personal feelings of one or two designers.

Chairwoman of IPMI Sjamsidar Isa stated her willingness to
cooperate with APPMI and other independent designers.

APPMI's chairman Musa Widyatmodjo shared a similar view. "We
have no problem at all," said Musa.

The amiable words do not translate into actions.

Many new graduates of fashion design schools across the
country struggle to join both fashion associations, wishing to
gain the best from them

Take Kanaya Tabitha, a new emerging designer, who was eager to
join both organizations. She found it was not possible.

"Why did I have to go solo? Because I could not join them
both," Samuel said.

He added there was no logical reason for each association to
prohibit its members from joining the other group because they
were established with different purposes. Each group could
complement each other, Samuel said.

It is not that easy in reality; it's almost impossible to
bring the two groups together.

In 1996, the Jakarta Tourist Agency invited members of APPMI
and IPMI to jointly hold a major fashion event, titled Jakarta
Fashion Week. It was supposed to be an annual event, but it
ground to a halt.

The monetary crisis was considered a reason, but many put the
major factor as the rivalry between the two groups.

IPMI recently closed its annual Luminaire Trend IPMI 2001,
held from Oct. 16 to Oct. 19, while APPMI will hold its Fashion
Tendance from Nov. 9 to Nov. 12.

Although the discord may seem endless, both organizations have
made major contributions to the development of the local fashion
industry.

IPMI has actively pushed its members to attend various
international fashion events. It also participates in regular
contests, both locally and abroad.

IPMI can also boast of its members' creativity. Members like
Ghea S. Panggabean and Carmanita have conducted a great variety
of research and experimentation on designs and fabrics.

Ghea is well-known for her ethnic-themed collection and the
jumputan tie-dye technique, while Carmanita recently made
headlines for her lycra batik.

APPMI has supported its members to become skillful and
professional designers and businesspeople.

It also works closely with the Indonesian Chamber of Commerce
(Kadin) and international fashion associations such as the Hong
Kong Trade Development Council and the Japan-based Total Fashion.
APPMI's members regularly join Total Fashion's annual Asia
Fashion Grand Prix International contest.

The organization also holds training, workshops
and seminars.

"If one member attends a seminar, he or she has to share his
knowledge and experience with others," Musa said.

"So each member is a teacher and also a student as well,"
added Poppy Dharsono, the founder of APPMI. "We are here to unite
those who want to pursue a career in the fashion world."

In the reform era, designers have the option to join the
organizations -- or go it alone on local runways.

The world is shrinking, thanks to rapid technological
progress. People can quickly and easily access information on
fashion from around the globe. Fashion designers can show their
work on the Net, and conduct transactions through e-commerce.

With such significant changes, some are asking if local
designers still need the helping hand of the associations. (Agni
Amorita)