RI jewelry designs have many sources
JAKARTA (JP): Remarkable gold jewelry, household and ceremonial utensils, and weapons have been crafted in Indonesia since the 4th century.
Many crowns, necklaces, medallions and earrings were discovered at a site of the former Majapahit Kingdom, which ruled Java and other islands including Mallaca (now Malaysia) between the 7th and 8th centuries.
Jewelry in Indonesia is made of a broad range of materials and expresses many regional characteristics. It has been fashioned for almost all parts of the body -- head, ears, neck, arms, torso, legs and feet. The jewelry often embodies symbols representing myths and links to religious power. It is not merely for decoration, but emphasizes the link between the ruler and the ruled, and the ruler and supernatural forces. Some of the images used include the naga (dragon) in bracelets from Kalimantan and a kala (monster) in jewelry from Central Java.
Evidence proves that prehistoric people in Indonesia wore simple jewelry made of wood, stones, animal bones and leather in the form of necklaces, bracelets and head decorations. Both men and women wore this primitive jewelry.
The jewelry is still worn by indigenous tribes in Nias (Sumatra), Dayak (Kalimantan), Toraja (South Sulawesi), and Irian, Maluku and Sumba (East Nusa Tenggara).
The making of jewelry was later influenced by the penetration of advanced civilizations. The introduction of new materials, including gold, silver, bronze and other types of metal, changed the jewelry making process.
"New models of jewelry were produced for various purposes. Although the technique was still very simple, the designs were quite enchanting. Many of these old designs are still produced now," said Wahyono Martowikrido, head of the archaeological department of the National Museum.
Golden age
In the golden age of the Indonesian Hindu and Buddha kingdoms, jewelry designs developed tremendously as can be seen in the reliefs on several Hindu and Buddhist temples in Central Java. The reliefs feature figures wearing elaborate jewelry. Wahyono said the jewelry was used in wedding festivities, performances and rituals.
In this period, the gold jewelry distinguished the social status of the wearer.
"People from the lowest caste were only allowed to wear jewelry designed specifically for them. If they wore jewelry intended for higher-ranked caste, they violated an unwritten rule," Wahyono explained.
The offending person could cause disaster to himself and the whole community, he added.
During that period control of people of different social status was tight and they believed that precious materials, including gold and stones, had sacred power, said Wahyono, who wrote a book on gold jewelry entitled Old Javanese Gold.
The emergence of the Islamic kingdoms in Sumatra, Java, Kalimantan and Sulawesi brought other significant modifications to gold jewelry.
A striking 18th century crown from the Banten Sultanate, which has strong Islamic designs, is an example from the period. The crown is now part of the gold jewelry collection of the National Museum. In several Moslem sultanates in Aceh, Palembang and Java, a large number of jewelry and interior decorations, clearly are of Islamic design.
Influences from the west also colored the development of Indonesian jewelry design. The Dutch introduced new ideas when they brought over European design elements -- the classical and romantic roots to modern jewelry designs.
A large number of royal accessories, including thrones and household utensils were made in the European fashion. These are found mainly in the Surakarta Hadiningrat palace. In l984, much of the European-style gold jewelry was destroyed in a fire. (raw)