RI jewelry designs have many sources

RI jewelry designs have many sources

JAKARTA (JP): Remarkable gold jewelry, household and
ceremonial utensils, and weapons have been crafted in Indonesia
since the 4th century.

Many crowns, necklaces, medallions and earrings were
discovered at a site of the former Majapahit Kingdom, which ruled
Java and other islands including Mallaca (now Malaysia) between
the 7th and 8th centuries.

Jewelry in Indonesia is made of a broad range of materials and
expresses many regional characteristics. It has been fashioned
for almost all parts of the body -- head, ears, neck, arms,
torso, legs and feet. The jewelry often embodies symbols
representing myths and links to religious power. It is not merely
for decoration, but emphasizes the link between the ruler and the
ruled, and the ruler and supernatural forces. Some of the images
used include the naga (dragon) in bracelets from Kalimantan and a
kala (monster) in jewelry from Central Java.

Evidence proves that prehistoric people in Indonesia wore
simple jewelry made of wood, stones, animal bones and leather in
the form of necklaces, bracelets and head decorations. Both men
and women wore this primitive jewelry.

The jewelry is still worn by indigenous tribes in Nias
(Sumatra), Dayak (Kalimantan), Toraja (South Sulawesi), and
Irian, Maluku and Sumba (East Nusa Tenggara).

The making of jewelry was later influenced by the penetration
of advanced civilizations. The introduction of new materials,
including gold, silver, bronze and other types of metal, changed
the jewelry making process.

"New models of jewelry were produced for various purposes.
Although the technique was still very simple, the designs were
quite enchanting. Many of these old designs are still produced
now," said Wahyono Martowikrido, head of the archaeological
department of the National Museum.

Golden age

In the golden age of the Indonesian Hindu and Buddha kingdoms,
jewelry designs developed tremendously as can be seen in the
reliefs on several Hindu and Buddhist temples in Central Java.
The reliefs feature figures wearing elaborate jewelry. Wahyono
said the jewelry was used in wedding festivities, performances
and rituals.

In this period, the gold jewelry distinguished the social
status of the wearer.

"People from the lowest caste were only allowed to wear
jewelry designed specifically for them. If they wore jewelry
intended for higher-ranked caste, they violated an unwritten
rule," Wahyono explained.

The offending person could cause disaster to himself and the
whole community, he added.

During that period control of people of different social
status was tight and they believed that precious materials,
including gold and stones, had sacred power, said Wahyono, who
wrote a book on gold jewelry entitled Old Javanese Gold.

The emergence of the Islamic kingdoms in Sumatra, Java,
Kalimantan and Sulawesi brought other significant modifications
to gold jewelry.

A striking 18th century crown from the Banten Sultanate, which
has strong Islamic designs, is an example from the period. The
crown is now part of the gold jewelry collection of the National
Museum. In several Moslem sultanates in Aceh, Palembang and Java,
a large number of jewelry and interior decorations, clearly are
of Islamic design.

Influences from the west also colored the development of
Indonesian jewelry design. The Dutch introduced new ideas when
they brought over European design elements -- the classical and
romantic roots to modern jewelry designs.

A large number of royal accessories, including thrones and
household utensils were made in the European fashion. These are
found mainly in the Surakarta Hadiningrat palace. In l984, much
of the European-style gold jewelry was destroyed in a fire. (raw)