Retail value of Jakarta's malls, stores

By Bruce Emond

Jakarta, not surprisingly for an archipelagic country whose diverse peoples were united mainly by long-standing trade ties, remains a center for the retail trade.

Its position has changed little even with the economic crisis, which dimmed sales somewhat, and the 1998 riots, when all and sundry helped themselves to the goodies in Jakarta's stores in the name of frustration and reformasi.

Still, the malls and markets survive; those which did not have their own battalion of soldiers to keep them safe from the hordes ("the retail regiment" perchance?) have been rebuilt and renovated. Even poor Ramayana, the chain of department stores which was particularly hard hit by looting and vandalism, is reopening those very same stores.

Amid the overreaching shadow of the country's mega malls and shopping plazas, the minions of the retail trade still carve out a giant role. Hero and other shops may be increasingly important for a once-a-week major stocking up for Jakarta's well-heeled, but most Indonesians still find their daily needs at the city's traditional markets.

It also provides a rich social experience. An expatriate acquaintance relates with gusto the joy of venturing out into the pasar for the "fun" of bargaining over cuts of meat and bunches of fruit. He enjoys being in the thick of things, bantering with the vendors and rubbing shoulders with other market visitors.

Jakarta can be a shopper's paradise for bargains or, if you are part of the latter-day Marie Antoinettes of Indonesian society, the ideal air-conditioned place to totter around in your Manolo Blahniks on a daily sojourn to that choice world accessed by charge cards.

Jakartans with lots of the green stuff can taste all the retail delights on offer. Here is a brief summary of some of the shopping malls in the city:

Sarinah Thamrin: The daddy of Jakarta shopping malls, it was opened by Sukarno in 1962. It must have been really something way back when, but now it has been eclipsed in the glamor department by the newer crop of malls dotting the city. Its winning point remains its very "Indonesian" feel, from the extensive range of traditional handicrafts, from batik to Irianese wooden statues, on its middle floors, to the traditional food court in the basement. The latter serves up dishes from around the country but in relatively hygienic surroundings.

Blok M Mall: Another shopping mall which was really the center of activities in the 1980s. I can remember as a high school exchange student visiting Jakarta and being dazzled by the plush surroundings of Blok M Mall (there was no comparison in Padang, West Sumatra). It still has some interesting stores and restaurants but it can get crowded on weekends, especially the two top floors near the movie theater.

Pasar Raya: A short distance down Jl. Melawai, Pasar Raya certainly lives up to its title of "Big and Beautiful", it boasts a sprawling food court in the basement and a huge Indonesia handicraft section to rival that of Sarinah Thamrin. Also of interest is its floor showcasing the best of Indonesia's modern fashion designers -- they are designer goods but at relatively affordable prices.

Plaza Indonesia: The mall which in the early 1990s ushered in the wave of gigantic shopping malls. Cavernous and teeming with brand-name stores, shoppers can spend billions of rupiah just window shopping. Its center piece, literally, is an atrium restaurant (the plaza is adjacent to the Grand Hyatt), and its Sogo department store (there is also a Sogo at Kelapa Gading Mall). Also for the picking are numerous restaurants, from small coffee shops to fast food outlets to the food court.

Pondok Indah Mall: Befitting the upmarket suburb of the same name, the mall is filled with shops and restaurants. It also boasts Dermaga Food Court, a new food court to tempt the taste buds, and the first Kidz Station, a store promising a "revolution" in children's retailing. The store offers a wide range of products for the little ones, plus entertainment to keep them chuckling. It also does a little good for the less fortunate among us by donating funds to support the education of children from low-income families.

Plaza Senayan: An elegant, attractive retail space which, not incidentally, is air-conditioned to the hilt and can be a welcome refuge from Jakarta's heat. The major names in consumerism, from Louis Vuitton to Versace to Prada, have outlets in the building. A food court, of course, graces its top floor.

Citraland: The bigger the better became the philosophy of shopping mall construction companies in the 1990s. Citraland is another vast homage to what a fat pocketbook can buy you. Perhaps too much for one visit but even its vast expanse is dwarfed by some of the malls which followed. And not for those who hate the sight of crowds.

Taman Anggrek: So colossal, so full of swarms of humanity that it is positively intimidating. Everything you may be looking for is available, from household goods to designer accessories to a huge CD emporium, but the problem is finding it on the maze of floors which seem to spiral up to the sky. There is even an ice- skating rink on the top floor for those of us who fancy ourselves as Jakarta's answer to Katarina Witt. Could it be any bigger or, more to the point, does any mall need to be the size of a small town?

Mega Mall: No, not an homage to the people's choice for president, this mall's name heralds its size. Again, you can shop to your heart's desire but you may need a road map to get around.

Away from the madding crowds of the malls, you may be seeking a quieter place to do your weekly shop.

Among those offering a more low-key shopping adventure is the Pantry, a gourmet store with outlets in six apartments.

It is planning to open a wine cellar in its Kempinski supermarket, which may be the answer to Jakarta wine connoisseurs' prayers.

Although they have been roundly accused of dumping by Indonesian retailers, and have denied the charge, hypermarkets are setting up shop in Indonesia.

Property consultant Procon Indah/Jones Lang Lasalle notes that the foreign hypermarkets are making a concerted push into Indonesia.

"Two foreign hypermarket retailers aggressively seeking new opportunities to penetrate the market are Continent and Carrefour," it says in its Indonesian Property Brief. "Within one year since the opening of its first outlet in October last year, Continent has opened two more outlets. The latest opening on July 15 is located in the Mega IT Cempaka Mas. The fourth outlet is expected to open in December in the newly refurbished Ratu Plaza.

"Carrefour has just opened its second outlet in the newly refurbished Duta Merlin on Aug. 24."

The property consultant noted that the inquiries it received "increased by 50 percent in the second quarter. Post-general election, they are showing more serious interest than those prior to the election. Most of the inquiries come from new retailers, both foreign and local, from fashion, accessories and food business lines."

A recent upturn in the retail business is also shown by plans to refurbish outlets damaged in the May riots. Renovation work has begun on Slipi Plaza, which was gutted during the unrest, with plans for the same for Plaza Glodok.

Also newly refurbished is Lippo Karawaci. The food court was reopened last year, with the remaining part of the ground floor to reopened shortly to accommodate Mega M, Gramedia and specialty shops.