Restoration plan to boost glory of ancient Besakih temple

By I Wayan Juniarta

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The ancient temple Besakih, with towering Mount Agung in the background, is perhaps one of the most popular attractions of Bali, having been shown in most tourism brochures, travel magazines, and Bali television documentaries.

Located at Menanga village in Karangasem regency, about 65 kilometers northeast of Denpasar, Besakih is also the biggest temple compound in Bali with 18 public temples, four Catur Lawa temples, 11 clan temples, six non-clan temples, 29 sub-clan temples, seven sub-clan-related temples and 11 non-categorized temples.

The importance of Besakih can be traced back into history and myths from the ancient times of Bali.

"In a semi-historical account of Bali as mentioned in Usana Bali-Usana Jawa, Mount Agung was a part of Himalaya's peak brought to and then planted in Bali by the god Pasupati to stabilize the island," art devotee Nyoman Sugiharta said.

Pasupati, he added, also asked his three children to stay in Bali to be the guide, provider, and protector of the people of Bali. His oldest son was to reside at Mount Agung, the daughter at Lake Batur in Kintamani. The third child was assigned to reside in the sea around Bali.

Pasupati promised that as long as the people of Bali worshiped and respected his children, they should have no fear for the well-being of their lives for the gods would guarantee their eternal protection and abundant harvests.

Another legend has it that a Hindu priest, Rsi Markandya, traveled with his 800 Javanese followers to the slope of Mount Agung. In the area later known as Besakih, the priest buried five metal amulets, Panca Datu, to ward off misfortune.

"Actually it was the second expedition to Bali for Markandya. The first expedition several years earlier was a failure. Markandya could only go as far as Taro village, now in Gianyar regency, because most of his entourage was taken away by a strange plague. The tragic end suffered by his followers forced Markandya to return to Java," Sugiharta explained.

After the burying of those five metal amulets, no strange plague hampered Markandya and his followers' efforts in settling in the area. Presumably, the word Besakih was derived from the word Basuki, which means "well-being".

"Or, it could refer to Besuki area in Java, where Markandya allegedly came from," Sugiharta explained.

A palm leaf manuscript mentioned the name of Sri Kesari Warmadewa as the king who built Besakih temple in the 10th century A.D. In the golden age of Warmadewa dynasty in the 11th century A.D., two influential Javanese priests Empu Kuturan and Empu Bharadah visited Besakih. During the visit, Empu Kuturan erected a multi-roofed Meru in Besakih temple compound.

A combination of awesome myths and close connection by each clan to its own temple in Besakih compound has made Besakih temple the most important temple in Bali.

"For a Balinese, Besakih is not just a place to worship God, but also an ultimate destination, where his or her soul aspires to reside after the final moment comes," Sugiharta said.

Threat

Metaphysical values are not the only reason for Besakih's importance, numerous archaeological findings in Besakih compound have made the temple important to non-Hindus as well.

A ancient menhir is a shrine in Batu Madeg temple, and early stone tables can be found in Kiduling Kreteg temple, Batu Madeg temple, Penataran Agung temple and Dalem Puri temple.

Yet this beautiful old temple compound with all its metaphysical and archaeological importance is threatened by the terrifying threat of modern processes.

Those who have visited Besakih in recent years could not fail to notice that the atmosphere at the temple compound is not as quite as it used to be.

The food stalls, snake fruit sellers, and, of course, the art shops grow more numerous each year. Not to mention the billiard parlors, providing youths not just entertainment but alcoholic refreshments as well.

The numbers multiply by the dozens when a religious festival is celebrated in Besakih. In addition to thousands of Hindu followers donned in traditional costume there are hundreds of non-Hindu people selling almost everything, from toys to pop icon posters.

The unfortunate changes in the landscape of Besakih has been made worse changes in attitude and character.

"There were and still are numerous complaints filed by Besakih's visitors about the dishonest vendors and local guide's impolite attitudes," Sugiharta said.

A recent scandal erupted when several local drunk youths beat up a man after attempting to sexually harass his woman companion. Both of them, who are members of a Hindu youth organization, came to Besakih to pray. The incident humiliated the elders of Besakih village, who then asked the whole Balinese Hindu community for forgiveness.

The problems faced by Besakih were one of the topics addressed in the World Bank-sponsored International Symposium on Conserving Cultural Heritage for Sustainable Social, Economy and Tourism Development held in Bali from July 9-14.

The symposium was one of the programs of the Bali CHC (Cultural Heritage Conservation) Project, a comprehensive project aimed at establishing an umbrella program for developing conservation skills, resources and networks as well as strengthening existing cultural institutions and legislative protection.

An expert from Udayana University, Ir. IBG Wirawibawa Mantra, presented a paper on Besakih's conservation and management plan. The plan urged for environmental improvement, restricted building permits, relocation of shops and settlements and development guidelines.

"We will divide Besakih area into several zones with different functions and building restriction," he said.

The plan also includes clean water management, waste management and other necessary infrastructure.

Although the well-detailed plan was accepted by the symposium's participants, several experts urged the Bali CHC Project Team to act cautiously.

"Since the plan involves relocation of settlements, we must make sure the people of Besakih understand the overall plan completely before we make any real move,"a planner Rumawan Salain said.

Besides Besakih, the Bali CHC Project also selected Singaraja city in Buleleng, the Gilimanuk Archaeological Site in Jembrana, the Mandala Mathika Subak museum in Tabanan, the water garden Taman Ujung in Karangasem, the textiles collection of Bali Museum in Denpasar and the palm leaf manuscripts of Gedong Kirtya in Buleleng for its pilot projects.

The restoration and conservation plans for those pilot projects were prepared by experts and scholars of the Bali CHC project.

Head of Bali Cultural Office Ida Bagus Pangdjaja stated that the World Bank had agreed to provide soft-loans to finance the pilot projects. But, the regencies, where the pilot projects are located, can also finance projects with funds from their own annual budgets.

"The ball is now on their (the regencies) field. Regardless of the financing scheme the regencies opted for, the pilot projects will be started immediately. That's including Besakih," Pangdjaja stressed.