Restoran Penang brings Malaysian fare to town

Tantri Yuliandini, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta

When leaving for overseas, many Indonesians bring enough bumbu rendang (ready-made seasoning for stewed spicy beef) and sambal (chili sauce) to last them until they get used to the fare of the new country.

For Malaysians in Indonesia it is a little tricky, because although the two countries share many spices and foods, the Indonesian version is somehow "not quite the same".

It was for this very reason that Penang-born Johnny Yong opened his Restoran Penang in 1999. Johnny, who has been in Jakarta for the last 10 years, said that from 1991 to 1998 there were hardly any restaurants here offering Malaysian food.

"When a Malay like myself wanted to eat authentic Malaysian food, there were none," he said. It was only when his construction business here collapsed in the aftermath of the Asian economic crisis that he decided to open Restoran Penang.

The island of Penang, on the northwestern coast of Peninsular Malaysia, is world famous for its hawker food -- assam laksa (translucent rice noodles in sour fish-based stock), char bee hoon (fried translucent rice noodles), char kwe teow (fried flat rice noodles) and Hokkien mee (yellow noodles in prawn soup), to name just a few dishes.

The island's history as a major British trading post for tea, spices, china and cloth has drawn people from many countries to its shores, who brought with them their diverse cultures and cuisines. The three main ethnic groups of the island are Malay, Chinese and Indian.

It appears that Malaysians in Indonesia have long been craving their own authentic cuisine, as evidenced by the success of Johnny's "trial" Restoran Penang in Pluit, North Jakarta.

His recipe of hiring a real Malaysian chef and using authentic Malaysian ingredients in all his dishes paid off, and early this month the humble Restoran Penang moved to a larger establishment along the same road.

"I was only experimenting at first, but now this is for real," Johnny said, explaining that now he has fully trained Indonesian chefs to replace the Malaysian chef, but that he still imports certain crucial ingredients from home.

A must-try specialty of the restaurant is the deliciously savory and spicy Char Kwe Teow. Flat rice noodles fried with fish meatballs, prawns, egg, cockles, bean sprouts and garlic chives. The mouth waters just thinking about it.

Some visitors swear by the restaurant's Assam Laksa, translucent rice noodles in sourish tamarind soup topped with fish, mint leaves, bunga kantang (lotus flower buds), cucumber and pineapple. Assam Laksa is only sold on weekends and public holidays.

A taste of India can be had from the savory Roti Canai Kari Ayam, fluffy flat bread with chicken curry.

For drinks the restaurant offers Malaysian favorites such as Teh Tarik (hot milk tea), Teh Peng (cold milk tea), Ice Kacang (concoction of shaved ice, sweet corn, red beans, cendol, jelly, and sago topped with evaporated milk and rose syrup) and Cham Peng (a mixture of tea, coffee, chocolate milk powder and ice).

Prices range from Rp 7,500 to Rp 28,000 for food and between Rp 2,500 and Rp 8,500 for drinks.

Restoran Penang is open from 7 a.m. to 10 p.m. at Jl. Pluit Karang Timur Blok O VIII No. 27, North Jakarta. Phone 021- 66690565.