Resident witness to change on Jl. Jaksa
Resident witness to change on Jl. Jaksa
Andina Sawitri Lubis, The Jakarta Post, Jakarta
It doesn't take long to walk the length of the road, which is
just a bit wider than an alley.
Jl. Jaksa has been a magnet for budget tourists since the
1980s, and has felt the ups and downs of the country's tourist
industry.
Cheap hotels, bars and food stalls offering beer line the some
500-meter-long street, which many local residents count on for a
living.
The street offers job opportunities to those wanting to work
as taxi drivers, ojek (motorcycle taxi) drivers, parking
attendants, waiters or waitresses, bar tenders, singers or even
food vendors.
One such person is Norma. The 38 year old has been selling
noodles in a corner of an alley off Jl. Jaksa for almost half of
her life.
"I was born here ... I have seen many goings on here," she
said in a strong Betawi (native Jakartan) accent.
"I've seen foreigners around here since I was a little girl.
This place is famous worldwide. It's on everyone's map of
Indonesia."
The mother of three remember the road before it was asphalted.
"I still remember the row of houses that were later sold and
converted into hotels, cafes, restaurants or billiard halls. Many
of those living here moved to suburban areas," she recalled.
As tourism grew, Jl. Jaksa became more crowded and dirty, with
its sidewalks becoming packed with street vendors and hoodlums
demanding protection money from struggling entrepreneurs.
There has been a sharp downturn in visitor numbers in recent
years, triggered by the worldwide alert on terrorism after 9/11,
and as a direct impact of the bombings in Bali, at the JW
Marriott Hotel and outside the Australian Embassy.
Although Jl. Jaksa is in the capital and is a tourist
attraction, it appears to have been neglected by the city
administration.
Tourism police used to patrol the area and help foreigners
reach their destinations safely, but not anymore. Now it is not
unusual for the street to be victimized by hard-line religious
groups.
Claiming that she does not consider foreigners her personal
cash cows, Norma said even drunk foreigners did not bother her or
other residents. "We protect each other here," she said.
What she loves most is foreigner customers going to her small
stall for a chat.
"I make friends with them. A tourist from the Netherlands,
Dave, always comes here before he goes home. He brings something
for my family and children whenever he comes to Jakarta."
However, business is not so good for Norma nowadays. She has
had to move several times, with the last place she parked her
cart being developed into another entertainment venue.
"How can I protest? Things change and I have to adapt, that's
all."
Now she sells noodles outside her house, which according to
her is not a strategic place to do business.
"I can only get Rp 15,000 (US$1.50) per day now ... I would be
very happy if I could get more," she said.