Ready-to-wear: Making it back on the runway

Ready-to-wear: Making it back on the runway

Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta

Leading designers Stephanus Hamy and Widhi Budimulia have
confirmed that rumors of the death of ready-to-wear on these
shores are greatly exaggerated.

The two presented designs featuring their typical ready-to-
wear concepts -- well-suited to various occasions, light, easily
matchable with other garments and attractive to different types
of consumers -- in Jakarta last week.

Their 2002 collections, each introducing about 60 sets of
men's and women's wear, stayed in style by following the tastes
of world fashion. Bright colors and white were chosen, packaged
with elements of the romantic style that is the current dominant
trend.

The show effectively put an end to the pessimistic view of
some about the Indonesian ready-to-wear industry, which was
propounded by the recent popularity of one-off fashion shows
featuring ballroom gowns.

Such creations are usually limited to the catwalk, and the
public's need for affordable, stylish clothes was being ignored.

Many designers, including those who originally made their name
in the ready-to-wear business, followed the trend by
concentrating on a few exclusive dresses made to order for
affluent clients.

All of those developments were a pity, because ready-to-wear
was once the backbone of the Indonesian fashion scene, bringing
the creations of many top designers to a wide public.

Stephanus and Widhi say they want a return to the old days.

"We would like to restore the public conception that visiting
a designer is a matter of daily necessity, rather than only done
in preparation for a party," said Stephanus.

Hopefully, this will mean an end to the ubiquitous and
increasingly boring sight of sequin-packed, embroidered evening
gowns dragging their trains along the runway.

Stephanus chose the two-piece matching design style for his
second-line collection, "Hamy Touch".

His show started with designs highlighted by combinations of
lace and chiffon in tones of beige, cream, turmeric yellow and
pastel purple. Then came blouses and chiffon skirts in burgundy
and green. Continuing last year's display concept, the "East",
Stephanus retained the Japanese obi-styled broad belts.

All-brown designs included chiffon blouses with skirts and
broad-striped pants, fringed in lace or transparent material.

The standout of Stephanus' show were his lace patchwork
skirts. "I was reminded of the baggy look of the 1980s, and then
I developed it into the patchwork style, which is simpler," he
said.

With the use of lace, the patchwork skirts become deluxe
products. Coupled with chiffon-pleated blouses with bell-shaped
sleeves or blouson chiffon-pleated tops, his collection was
youthful and playful. His thin blouson blouses with miniskirts or
laced hot pants were particularly outstanding.

After keeping to long dresses and housewife-type loose blouses
for almost a decade, Stephanus this time flaunted his fresher,
more cheerful and adaptable second-line outfits. They attracted
many consumers, who were won over by their simplicity.

"I have made my collection more easily understood. It's not
just beautiful on stage, with nobody willing to buy it," he said.

The truth of his statement was confirmed by the 40-something
wife of an ex-minister who, upon admiring a yellow laced skirt
with chiffon inner lining, said: "It's a very nice skirt. By
replacing the upper part, I can use it for an informal evening
event."

Stephanus' collection was the first hint of optimism that
Indonesian ready-to-wear designs were ready for a comeback, and
it was reinforced by Widhi's creations.

The designer introduced his new collection with a new label,
www.widhi, in a deluxe ready-to-wear style.

Unlike Stephanus, who based his inspiration on colorful
cheerfulness, Widhi presented a theme, "Purity", for his
collection, which was dominated by white-colored designs, from
gypsy blouses to beautiful cocktail gowns.

The designs and choice of color reflect the designer's protest
against various forms of violence in the country today. The white
color reminds the people of the need to remember their good and
noble values.

"I lodge my protests by holding fashion shows instead of
launching a demonstration in front of the Hotel Indonesia," Widhi
said after the show.

Visitors felt the purity of Widhi's collection in his white
blouses with feminine and romantic designs. As with the prevalent
trend today, Widhi presented the romantic style in the form of
blouses with bell-shaped or pleated sleeves.

His blouses, made by combining different textures like
polyester lace and broderie Anglaise, looked beautiful and
dynamic. A frilly combination on the collar or the lower end of
the sleeves made the blouses appear like a hybrid of Victorian
and gypsy.

Combined with jeans or skirts, the white blouses looked modern
and modish, and Widhi obviously intended to make the designs of
his beautiful blouses stand out for customers.

Many people have come to assume that a designer outfit means a
party dress, and the blouse has been largely ignored. "Actually,
there are stylish shirts for daily dress," said Widhi.

The gowns were long, reaching below the knees, like gowns in
the Empire style, and combined drapery chiffon on the upper part
and jacquard materials with relief texture on the lower part.

Despite the predominance of white, the gowns did not look like
wedding gowns because of their simplicity. Several of the gowns
were in the halter style made famous in a still of Marilyn Monroe
from the movie The Seven Year Itch.

"I wish to provide an illustration to consumers that
emphasizes that they don't always have to wear a black cocktail
dress or evening dress. With simple designs, white gowns look
different from wedding gowns," Widhi said.

These two fine collections have given new optimism for ready-
to-wear garments, which have in recent times been overlooked and
forgotten. The two designers have shown that ready-to-wear can be
attractive, providing the garments are produced based on clear
concepts and with guaranteed quality.

"Compared with their products in the past, the sewing has
improved," one woman audience member commented.

It was also refreshing that their shows were all about the
fashion statements they wished to make. There were no meandering
speeches before the models took to the runway.

It's a good sign when fashion designers buck the trend and
return to their roots. With designers like Widhi and Stephanus
providing ready-to-wear and holding true to their respective
characteristics, consumers once again will be able to enjoy a
wide selection of garments.