'Pura' Mangkunegaran still fascinates tourists

'Pura' Mangkunegaran still fascinates tourists

Kartika Bagus C., The Jakarta Post, Surakarta, Central Java

Mangkunegaran Pura (castle) remains one of the most fascinating
tourist magnets in Surakarta, besides the Kasunanan Surakarta
Hadiningrat Keraton (palace).

The castle was built in 1757, two years after the signing of
the Giyanti Agreement which divided the Mataram Kingdom into the
Yogyakarta Kasultanan (sultanate) and the Surakarta Kasunanan
(kingdom).

Raden Mas Said was a prince of the Surakarta kingdom who
revolted against the king. The king later allowed him to set up
his own court, and he assumed the title of Mangkunegara I and
ruled the west bank of the Pepe River in the hub of Surakarta.

Mangkunegaran Pura is in fact a smaller model of the Surakarta
Keraton, with a design typical of Javanese architecture. It has a
pamedan (training field), pendopo (audience hall), pringgitan
(shadow puppet performance hall), dalem ageng (great house) and
kaputran (knight rooms).

Like the palaces of Surakarta and Yogyakarta, the castle
underwent several changes at the height of the Dutch colonial
rule in Central Java, as reflected in the characteristics of
European decorations popular at that time.

Behind the main gate is the pamedan (a field to train
Mangkunegaran soldiers), with the former cavalry building located
east of the training field. The second gate leads to the pendopo,
with a capacity of five to 10,000 people, long considered the
largest hall in the country.

Supported by square wooden pillars made from trees taken from
the Mangkunegaran forest in Wonogiri, the building was erected
without nails. Four sets of gamelan (traditional orchestras) can
be found in the hall; one for routine ceremonies and three others
for special rituals.

The yellow and light-green colors dominating the hall are
typical of the Mangkunegaran family. The hall's light-colored
ceiling bears symbols of Hindu-Javanese astrology, and from this
ceiling hang a series of antique chandeliers. Seats were
introduced at the end of the 19th century under Mangkunegoro IV.

Behind the hall is an open hall for wayang (shadow puppet)
shows called the pringgitan, with a flight of stairs leading to
the dalem ageng, a 1,000-square-meter great house, traditionally
serving as a royal wedding chamber and now functioning as a
museum.

Apart from displaying petanen, the woven silk-decorated abode
of Dewi Sri (goddess of rice), this museum also exhibits
Mangkunegaran ornaments, weapons, costumes, medals, wayang
equipment, coins, pictures of princes of Mangkunegaran and art
objects.

In the middle of the castle, behind the great house, lies the
Mangkunegaran family's living quarters, with the serene
atmosphere of an aristocratic mansion. An inside garden contains
blooming plants and decorative shrubs, with songbirds and
colorful butterflies and a fountain spouting glittering water.

Facing the open garden is the beranda dalem (inside verandah),
which is octagonally shaped with several candle holders and
European furniture. Mirrors with golden frames are hung on the
walls.

Next to the verandah is the dining room, with the windows
providing a beautiful view of Java, a changing room for the
princesses and a beautiful bathroom.

A library built in 1867 by Mangkunegoro IV is located on the
second floor, on the left side of pamedan. With its windows kept
open to allow in sunlight, the library is frequented by
historians and students doing research.

This archive contains manuscripts with leather covers, books
in a number of different languages, particularly Javanese,
collections of historic photos and data on plantations and other
properties of the palace.

Well maintained, Mangkunegaran Pura is the only Javanese
castle where the residence of the royal family is open to the
public.