'Pura' Mangkunegaran still fascinates tourists
Kartika Bagus C., The Jakarta Post, Surakarta, Central Java
Mangkunegaran Pura (castle) remains one of the most fascinating tourist magnets in Surakarta, besides the Kasunanan Surakarta Hadiningrat Keraton (palace).
The castle was built in 1757, two years after the signing of the Giyanti Agreement which divided the Mataram Kingdom into the Yogyakarta Kasultanan (sultanate) and the Surakarta Kasunanan (kingdom).
Raden Mas Said was a prince of the Surakarta kingdom who revolted against the king. The king later allowed him to set up his own court, and he assumed the title of Mangkunegara I and ruled the west bank of the Pepe River in the hub of Surakarta.
Mangkunegaran Pura is in fact a smaller model of the Surakarta Keraton, with a design typical of Javanese architecture. It has a pamedan (training field), pendopo (audience hall), pringgitan (shadow puppet performance hall), dalem ageng (great house) and kaputran (knight rooms).
Like the palaces of Surakarta and Yogyakarta, the castle underwent several changes at the height of the Dutch colonial rule in Central Java, as reflected in the characteristics of European decorations popular at that time.
Behind the main gate is the pamedan (a field to train Mangkunegaran soldiers), with the former cavalry building located east of the training field. The second gate leads to the pendopo, with a capacity of five to 10,000 people, long considered the largest hall in the country.
Supported by square wooden pillars made from trees taken from the Mangkunegaran forest in Wonogiri, the building was erected without nails. Four sets of gamelan (traditional orchestras) can be found in the hall; one for routine ceremonies and three others for special rituals.
The yellow and light-green colors dominating the hall are typical of the Mangkunegaran family. The hall's light-colored ceiling bears symbols of Hindu-Javanese astrology, and from this ceiling hang a series of antique chandeliers. Seats were introduced at the end of the 19th century under Mangkunegoro IV.
Behind the hall is an open hall for wayang (shadow puppet) shows called the pringgitan, with a flight of stairs leading to the dalem ageng, a 1,000-square-meter great house, traditionally serving as a royal wedding chamber and now functioning as a museum.
Apart from displaying petanen, the woven silk-decorated abode of Dewi Sri (goddess of rice), this museum also exhibits Mangkunegaran ornaments, weapons, costumes, medals, wayang equipment, coins, pictures of princes of Mangkunegaran and art objects.
In the middle of the castle, behind the great house, lies the Mangkunegaran family's living quarters, with the serene atmosphere of an aristocratic mansion. An inside garden contains blooming plants and decorative shrubs, with songbirds and colorful butterflies and a fountain spouting glittering water.
Facing the open garden is the beranda dalem (inside verandah), which is octagonally shaped with several candle holders and European furniture. Mirrors with golden frames are hung on the walls.
Next to the verandah is the dining room, with the windows providing a beautiful view of Java, a changing room for the princesses and a beautiful bathroom.
A library built in 1867 by Mangkunegoro IV is located on the second floor, on the left side of pamedan. With its windows kept open to allow in sunlight, the library is frequented by historians and students doing research.
This archive contains manuscripts with leather covers, books in a number of different languages, particularly Javanese, collections of historic photos and data on plantations and other properties of the palace.
Well maintained, Mangkunegaran Pura is the only Javanese castle where the residence of the royal family is open to the public.