Problems bombard Portuguese fortress

Text and photos by A'an Suryana

JEPARA, Central Java (JP): Ask any school kid about Jepara, and they might enthusiastically answer that it was the birthplace of Indonesian women's emancipation heroine RA Kartini in 1879.

They might also mention that it is a center for wood carvings, which is correct, as its products have been exported to many countries.

Few, however, are likely to know that Jepara regency also has a tourist attraction, the ruins of the Benteng Portugis (Portuguese fortress), which is located on the northern tip of Java, some 48 kms from downtown Jepara. It is 90 kms from the provincial capital of Semarang, but transportation is not a problem as there are many public buses serving the route.

The fortress sits atop Donorojo hill in Banyumanis village, Keling district. A dense forest of old trees covers the small hill, creating shade and comfort for the visitors. The hilltop provides a beautiful view of surrounding areas, including uninhabited Mandalika island, some 500 meters away and separated by a tiny strait of the Java Sea.

To the west one can observe activities of hundreds of fishermen, who dock their boats at nearby coastal areas.

Turning back to the mainland, there is the beauty of Pucang Pendowo mountain, stretching to the east.

During the trek down the hill people can observe the dynamic waves of the Java Sea.

In fact, some tourists are more impressed by the view than the remains of the fortress.

"The fortress might not be so good, but the surrounding nature is amazing," Masruch, a local tourist, said.

It is a pity the fortress, built in the 17th century by the Sultanate of Mataram, lies in ruins and all that remains is a stretch of brick wall.

More alarming is the poor management and maintenance of the site.

In 1989 the government built several gazebos and also constructed concrete steps to allow people to travel up the hill. Today, all the walls at the site, including the roofs of the gazebos, are defaced by graffiti.

Head of the regency's tourist agency Teguh Supurbo acknowledged the sorry state of the fortress but noted the frustration of combating vandalism.

"Soon after we remove the graffiti, it is up again," he told The Jakarta Post at his office earlier this month.

He agreed that robbers were active at the site until two years ago, but said it stopped after an angry crowd set upon an alleged criminal and killed him.

"After the death of the robber in November 1997, there were no more muggings," Teguh said.

Another problem lingers as visitors are forced to pay illegal levies. In addition to the official entrance ticket sold at the gate by the Jepara administration and the parking fee, visitors must pay for what is termed an "archaeological service".

At least three people stand at every stop along the route and charge a motorbike rider Rp 500, while those driving a car have to pay Rp 1,500.

The collectors are locals and former patients of the nearby Donorojo Leprosy Hospital.

They began collecting because of a dispute about the management of the fortress between the tourist office and the hospital.

A hospital administrator said the leprosy patients had the right to manage the site.

"The Dutch handed over management of 179 hectares of land, including the land where the fortress is located, to the hospital," said the staff member, who spoke on the condition of anonymity.

Teguh said the land was under the supervision of the Jepara administration.

"Since the handover of authority from the Dutch to the Republic of Indonesia, the land was owned by the republic (state). The state handed over several hectares of land to be owned by the hospital, but the ownership of the fortress remains in the hands of the government."

He said it did not make sense for the hospital to take over management of the site.

"We are much more professional than them," he said.

The administration urged the leprosy patients to stay where they are in return for a share of the revenue. "But they refused the offer," he said.

Teguh said the administration took a "persuasive approach" to the matter through approaching village heads and local public figures. "However, the practice (of collecting) is still rampant, especially during the school vacation and Idul Fitri holiday."

In 1998, the fortress attracted more than 47,000 tourists, including 163 foreigners, generating more than Rp 40 million in revenue. But the number plummeted last year. From January to October last year, there were only 127 foreign tourists and less than 25,000 locals visiting the fortress, with total revenue of Rp 16.7 million.

The administration has set a revenue target of Rp 24 million in the 1999/2000 budget year, but much may depend on improving management of the site and resolving the problems.