Problems bombard Portuguese fortress
Problems bombard Portuguese fortress
Text and photos by A'an Suryana
JEPARA, Central Java (JP): Ask any school kid about Jepara,
and they might enthusiastically answer that it was the birthplace
of Indonesian women's emancipation heroine RA Kartini in 1879.
They might also mention that it is a center for wood carvings,
which is correct, as its products have been exported to many
countries.
Few, however, are likely to know that Jepara regency also has
a tourist attraction, the ruins of the Benteng Portugis
(Portuguese fortress), which is located on the northern tip of
Java, some 48 kms from downtown Jepara. It is 90 kms from the
provincial capital of Semarang, but transportation is not a
problem as there are many public buses serving the route.
The fortress sits atop Donorojo hill in Banyumanis village,
Keling district. A dense forest of old trees covers the small
hill, creating shade and comfort for the visitors. The hilltop
provides a beautiful view of surrounding areas, including
uninhabited Mandalika island, some 500 meters away and separated
by a tiny strait of the Java Sea.
To the west one can observe activities of hundreds of
fishermen, who dock their boats at nearby coastal areas.
Turning back to the mainland, there is the beauty of Pucang
Pendowo mountain, stretching to the east.
During the trek down the hill people can observe the dynamic
waves of the Java Sea.
In fact, some tourists are more impressed by the view than the
remains of the fortress.
"The fortress might not be so good, but the surrounding nature
is amazing," Masruch, a local tourist, said.
It is a pity the fortress, built in the 17th century by the
Sultanate of Mataram, lies in ruins and all that remains is a
stretch of brick wall.
More alarming is the poor management and maintenance of the
site.
In 1989 the government built several gazebos and also
constructed concrete steps to allow people to travel up the hill.
Today, all the walls at the site, including the roofs of the
gazebos, are defaced by graffiti.
Head of the regency's tourist agency Teguh Supurbo
acknowledged the sorry state of the fortress but noted the
frustration of combating vandalism.
"Soon after we remove the graffiti, it is up again," he told
The Jakarta Post at his office earlier this month.
He agreed that robbers were active at the site until two years
ago, but said it stopped after an angry crowd set upon an alleged
criminal and killed him.
"After the death of the robber in November 1997, there were no
more muggings," Teguh said.
Another problem lingers as visitors are forced to pay illegal
levies. In addition to the official entrance ticket sold at the
gate by the Jepara administration and the parking fee, visitors
must pay for what is termed an "archaeological service".
At least three people stand at every stop along the route and
charge a motorbike rider Rp 500, while those driving a car have
to pay Rp 1,500.
The collectors are locals and former patients of the nearby
Donorojo Leprosy Hospital.
They began collecting because of a dispute about the
management of the fortress between the tourist office and the
hospital.
A hospital administrator said the leprosy patients had the
right to manage the site.
"The Dutch handed over management of 179 hectares of land,
including the land where the fortress is located, to the
hospital," said the staff member, who spoke on the condition of
anonymity.
Teguh said the land was under the supervision of the Jepara
administration.
"Since the handover of authority from the Dutch to the
Republic of Indonesia, the land was owned by the republic
(state). The state handed over several hectares of land to be
owned by the hospital, but the ownership of the fortress remains
in the hands of the government."
He said it did not make sense for the hospital to take over
management of the site.
"We are much more professional than them," he said.
The administration urged the leprosy patients to stay where
they are in return for a share of the revenue. "But they refused
the offer," he said.
Teguh said the administration took a "persuasive approach" to
the matter through approaching village heads and local public
figures. "However, the practice (of collecting) is still rampant,
especially during the school vacation and Idul Fitri holiday."
In 1998, the fortress attracted more than 47,000 tourists,
including 163 foreigners, generating more than Rp 40 million in
revenue. But the number plummeted last year. From January to
October last year, there were only 127 foreign tourists and less
than 25,000 locals visiting the fortress, with total revenue of
Rp 16.7 million.
The administration has set a revenue target of Rp 24 million
in the 1999/2000 budget year, but much may depend on improving
management of the site and resolving the problems.