Poetry collection: Tried and tested Biyan

Hera Diani, The Jakarta Post/Jakarta

It is Poetry this time; previously, it was Ballet des Fleur, and before that was Life as Romance.

The theme of the new collection by designer Biyan Wanaatmadja, known for his ultra-feminine signature style, has always been saccharine sweet.

The latest collection unfurled last week at the Ritz-Carlton Hotel, however, might promote tooth decay -- which is ironic because the clothes of the Poetry collection are actually less feminine and sweet than usual, and are instead more casual and adventurous.

In terms of craftsmanship, the collection's pieces are eloquent and elaborate, and display great attention to detail -- which has always been Biyan's strength.

But otherwise, there is nothing too exciting about the show, and the collection, mainly because it is too predictable with nothing really new.

The Poetry show opened right, with a refreshing series of dazzling white outfits: short blouses, cropped pants and boleros, all with intricate lace, embroidery and eyelet accents, yet with a very modern and upbeat feel.

What is different with this collection is that Biyan strayed a bit from his usual soft hues, featuring darker and warmer tones like midnight blue and jade black, as well as sage green, slate gray, chocolate bronze as well as gold -- all in line with the season's color trend.

Aside from the usual beads and ribbons, details also included "antique" coins, vintage and Swarovski crystals, and semiprecious stones, as well as pleats and tiers.

In addition to fine cotton, linen, chiffon and crepe, the designer also created pieces using light velvet.

Taken as a whole, however, the collection was not particularly exciting. First, many items and details appeared recycled from previous collections, such as the empire-line dress, the drapes, the loose coat, the Greco-Roman dress, the 1940s and 1950s cuts; not to mention the ruffles or the jacket sewn entirely from velvet applique flowers.

Second, the collection emerged a bit late, as Biyan had picked up on the Bohemian trend -- all the stores in the country have already been selling Bohemian, or Boho, outfits over the past few months. So, the element of surprise was definitely out.

However, Biyan was not completely at fault for his less than inspiring collection this time.

Being one of the most celebrated figures in the local fashion scene -- which still suffers from lack of originality and craftsmanship, to name a couple of shortcomings -- expectation is inevitably placed heavily on the designer's shoulders.

Another contributing factor is the intense and aggressive pressure from the imported products and brands that now inundate the local market -- at relatively affordable prices, yet offering clothing that range in quality from good to excellent. The influx certainly pushes local designers behind in the competition.

Even so, we sincerely hope that this is only a slip in Biyan's -- as well as other designers' -- creativity, and that the local fashion scene will come up with better and more exciting pieces that expose their talents.