Pleats remain Hamy's winning signature

By Asniar Sahab

JAKARTA (JP): After 16 years in the fashion world as a designer, Stephanus Hamy has achieved a lot, reputation, rewards and experience. One thing commendable about Hamy is his loyalty to the pleat, which has become his trademark.

His devotion to pleats has been fruitful. In the Bali Fashion Week in May, he was named the Best Designer by FTV-Paris, which undoubtedly gave him recognition in the international forum.

Hamy began his professional career in 1984 and has since then developed his own unique pleat designs. He became the first Indonesian designer to specialize in pleats. From the outset, his designs have captured the attention of local fashion editors but he lacked aggressiveness in bringing his designs to the mainstream.

Nevertheless, he remains faithful to the pleat, the style he has developed since 1987.

He presents the pleat in his numerous works. His pleat-based designs began to develop in 1998. Observers said that Hamy gave a new spirit to pleat.

Hamy is adept at giving a nuance of pleat to every single design he creates. He believes that tight, slim and sexy designs are what every girl dreams of. He has influenced the design of the modern kebaya (woman's blouse the front of which is pinned together and usually worn with a sarong) with his pleat, which he applies in batik, organdy and silk.

"Pleated designs are very flexible, classic and up to date. Besides, pleats are handy and comfortable for traveling. What's more, pleats are suitable for people of all sizes for different occasions," he explained.

In the beginning, he experimented with the pleat on his mother's gowns. He liked the result and he was inspired to develop this style.

Nowadays, the pleat is gaining momentum. More and more people like it and thus the market is expanding.

Hamy is optimistic that his design will prevail. The designs that his faithful customers wear serve as good promotion. He has also promoted them through the print and electronic media and fashion shows.

He said he was well aware that his business would finish as soon as he stops following the trend.

So far, he has refused to hold a solo show. Why?

"In my opinion, a solo show is only important to shape your image. Now, I am focusing on how to make a commercial success, although I am aware that image is also important.

"I believe that holding a show is not the only way to shape my image. It is the public and the market that will shape your image. Anyway, I will certainly hold a solo show when the time is right. What I am working on now is developing my outlets in major shopping centers," he said.

Hamy graduated from Tarumanegara University, Jakarta, in 1992 where he majored in architecture. Before starting his fashion business, he opened an interior design business which lasted only three years before he realized that fashion held more promise.

His latest show took place at Hotel Mulia, Jakarta, where he exhibited 32 his latest designs of casual and evening gowns. His designs were very much inspired by the styles of Baju Bodo (traditional South Sulawesi dresses) and Indian and Korean tunics. His dominant colors were pastel, black and gold. The design style featured geometric cuts and sarong designs with tight tops were dominant. They were very simple and highly wearable.

Hamy has purposely simplified his designs for lower costs due to the economic crisis. He wants to create the impression that his designs are simple and can be easily understood by lay people.

"In this time of hardship, I am compelled to make designs which are simple, practical and yet feminine," he said.

But, as Hamy acknowledged, the economic crisis has not badly affected his business. He can make 200 pieces a month and his nine employees remain loyal to their profession. When he gets many orders, he will hire contract workers.

Last May, he took part in a group show at the Bali Fashion Week and was voted the Best designer among the 10 participants by FTV-Paris, his biggest surprise so far.

In this festival, he presented his collections based on Baju Bodo, kimono and tunics. He wanted to prove that the stylish night gown does not have to be couture.