Plan ahead for a trip to 'serendipity' island

Getting There:For an introduction to what Sri Lanka has to offer, the SriLankan Airlines' US$808 buy-one-get-one-free package cannot be beat. The four-hour flight from Jakarta to Colombo passed quickly, thanks to excellent in-flight service.

The package includes top-range hotels, most of them part of the Jetwing Travels group; my favorites were the sumptuous Colombo Hilton and the Sigiriya Village, its sprawling chalets nestled in a wooded enclave.

Some travelers, especially younger ones, may not like the structured "if it's Wednesday, it must be Dambulla" nature of a tour. Jetwing Travels general manager Terrence Fernando said his agency could also tailor packages to individual needs, whether it be for wildlife or a tour of Colombo's casinos.

What to Bring:For clothing, what is acceptable in Indonesia also works here. If you wear shorts, you may be asked to don a sarong in some restaurants and hotels. Bring a sweater for trips to Kandy and the "Little England" of Nuwara Eliya. Sunscreen, body lotion and insect repellent are also good to remember.

It's hard to find a guidebook about Sri Lanka in Jakarta's bookstores ("isn't it part of India?") but Insight Guide: Sri Lanka (Apa Publications) has comprehensive information.

Where to Go: Colombo leads to the monuments of center of the country, from where you can head up to Kandy, which reminded me of Baguio in the Philippines, and Nuwara Eliya. Good beaches in Negambo, about a 45-minute drive from Colombo; travel restrictions have been lifted for the east and north.

Food:It's mostly rice and curry, consisting of a big plate of rice with side dishes, relatively cheap. Also try the hoppers, a type of pancake very similar to Indonesia's apem.

What to Buy:Tea, of course, as this is the world's largest producer. It's available everywhere, but there are a number of good shops along the road from Nuwara Eliya to Colombo which sell beautifully packaged tea.

Sri Lanka also has the full range of precious and semi- precious gems, except diamonds. This is also the place to try Ayurveda therapy, with lots of hotels, such as the Sigiriya Village, home to centers. You can also pick up Ayurveda toiletries, like toothpaste and soaps, in department stores.

Remember: Off-load your Sri Lankan rupees before you leave Colombo, because they are almost impossible to exchange outside the country. (Bruce Emond)