Pilgrims go to Bali's magical Nusa Penida

Pilgrims go to Bali's magical Nusa Penida

Tri Vivi Suryani, Contributor,, Nusa Penida, Bali

A dark cave teeming with hundreds of bats and large snakes may
not seem like an attractive place to visit. It is not a cave
belonging to Batman, but Pura Goa Giri Putri in Nusa Penida
Island, some 40 kilometers east of Denpasar, where Hindus
frequently make a pilgrimage to seek spiritual enlightenment.

It is no doubt that stressful modern life has caused numerous
psychological and spiritual disturbances, such as depression,
frustration and alienation, to name but a few. Social trends have
also affected many Balinese people, who are now trapped between
tradition and modernity and who are now widely exposed to global
tourism.

Many of them are now seeking ways to find peace and happiness
by going on pilgrimages to sacred places in the province. These
people are locally known as pemedek (those making spiritual
journeys).

One of Bali's holiest places is Nusa Penida Island in
Klungkung regency, East Bali. Once a barren island where the King
of Klungkung sent convicted people, Nusa Penida is currently
considered a popular destination for pilgrims.

This has motivated smart local businesspeople to organize
Tirtayatra tour packages in a very attractive and efficient way.

In the past, it was difficult to reach Nusa Penida because of
a lack of means of transportation and its expense, as well as a
lack of basic tourist infrastructure on the island, such as
lodgings and restaurants. A number of travel agencies have eyed
this opportunity by offering various packages.

Komala, from Nusa Garden Bungalow, explained that her agency
is trying to overcome problems faced by these pilgrims. Her
package includes a guided tour by a pemangku (low priest), the
offerings necessary, land and sea transportation and one night's
accommodation at the bungalow. She charges Rp 250,000 (US$25) per
person. A group comprises 10 persons to 20 persons, she said.
Other travel agencies may offer different packages.

Nusa Penida has a number of sacred places to visit. If
visitors choose one of the offered packages, they will initially
be taken to Goa Giri Putri. To reach the goa (cave), one must
climb 131 steps. Upon arrival at the mouth of the cave, there is
the pelinggih (a spiritual place) of Hyang Siwa Raditya, the god
of Shiva. Visitors are required to pray and to ask the god's
permission before setting foot in the cave's long, narrow and
dark corridor.

They must walk in single file because it is only wide enough
for one person. However, it is quite strange that the corridor
will always accommodate anyone, whether slim or chubby. At the
end of the corridor, one must crawl through a 60-centimeter-high
pass to reach a giant hole, which has a diameter of around 60
meters.

The main cave is approximately 200 meters long. Visitors will
find two important pelinggih dedicated to Hyang Giri Putri and
Hyang Siwa Mertha. The journey is not yet over. Another winding
alley must be passed to reach telaga penglukatan, a purification
lagoon, where pemedek spiritually cleanse their bodies from any
bad influences.

The next step is to walk toward pelinggih Catur Lokapala.
Right above it, there is an eternal water spring where pilgrims
sprinkle the water over their bodies.

Mangku Meneng Alit, who guides tourists, said that the volume
of water at the spring has never changed. "It is always full,
although hundreds of people take water from it. On the other
hand, the water never overflows, even when nobody comes here,"
said the low priest.

A long and difficult journey to Goa Giri Putri might be tiring
and a little bit frightening for those who rarely go on outdoor
trips. The atmosphere of the cave might resemble a scene from a
horror movie. Equipped with only a dim kerosene lamp, the shadows
of bats projected onto the cold walls of the cave create a
thrilling moment for many visitors. Other cave inhabitants are
big snakes, which slowly slither between the cave's floor and
walls. Some visitors will shout hysterically when seeing them,
but there have been no reports of the animals biting humans.

After visiting Goa Giri Putri, there are several other sacred
places in Nusa Penida, such as Pura Dalem Ped and Pura Puncak
Mundi.

A pilgrimage to Pura Dalem Ped consists of four visits --
starting with Pura Segara (the sea temple) where a special
pelinggih in the form of a big fish is dedicated to Dewa Baruna,
the god of the sea.

The trip continues to Pura Taman (the garden temple), which is
surrounded by a pond filled with beautiful lotus flowers and
plants. A visit to Pura Ratu Gede, the scariest place of all, is
a must. The trip to Pura Dalem Ped ends at Pura Penataran Agung
Ped where two holy pelinggih exist. There is also a stone statue,
which is believed to be able to "communicate" with some chosen
few, the blessed people.

The Tirtayatra package to Nusa Penida ends at Pura Puncak
Mundi, a holy temple located at the peak of the Mundi Hill. From
the grounds of the temple, the views of Bali and Lombok islands
are clearly visible.

Some tourists say the pilgrimage is good for enhancing their
spirituality. I Gusti Pujastana, a successful businessman in
Bali, said he frequently took part in Tirtayatra.

"I have been visiting holy places in Bali but in Nusa Penida,
I felt something different. It was a memorable experience," he
said.

Pujastana went further, saying that he trembled when
sitting and praying in front of pelinggih Goa Giri Putri.

Anak Agung Raka Yudha, an official at Badung administration,
added he could not stop crying when meditating at Pura Dalem Ped.
"It seemed as though my soul soared amid the stillness of Pura
Dalem Ped," Agung explained.