Peruvian fare with flare

Bill Blade, Contributor, Jakarta

Having arrived in Indonesia many moons ago directly from Lima, Peru (with a brief stopover in Moscow courtesy of Aeroflot), I have been greatly struck ever since by the lack of communication and connections between Indonesia and Latin America.

In fact, I think it's fair to say that the people here in Indonesia know next to nothing about that enormous and vibrant continent that lies almost directly facing Indonesia across the vast and lonely expanse of the Pacific Ocean.

This is, I have always felt, a crying shame, for Latin America has so much to offer in terms of culture, food, music, literature, export markets -- you name it, it's got it all!

But, every so often an opportunity does come along whereby the people of Jakarta get an opportunity to savor what that wonderful Latin continent and culture has to offer. One such rare opportunity is the Peruvian Food Festival currently underway at the Kempinski Hotel Plaza.

Peru, which lies on the northwest coast of South America, is, of course, famous for its rich Inca heritage, including fascinating lost cities, such as Machu Picchu, abandoned and mysterious high up in the Peruvian Andes. A land of contrasts made up of the desert coast (where the large cities are found), the high Andes and the vast tropical interior on the other side of the Andes, Peru as a tourist destination has something to offer just about everyone.

And the same may equally be said about Peruvian cuisine, a unique mix of Inca, Spanish and African epicurean delights. And with a large number of Japanese immigrants who arrived before the war (witness former president Alberto Fujimori), Peruvian cuisine also has a sprinkling of Asia thrown in for good measure.

All in all, a fascinating culinary adventure for those who get the opportunity to take the plunge.

Most of the recipes employed by Kempinski Chef Michael for this particular promotion have been supplied by the good wife of a Peruvian Embassy diplomat, and I must complement her on her choices, although given that hot chili (aji in Spanish) is as much a way of life in the northern countries of Latin America -- including Peru -- as it is here in Indonesia, there could, perhaps, have been a better showing on the part of the old red (and green) devils.

But this is a minor quibble, for the truth of the matter is that the banquet that Chef Michael has provided would be hard to best in Peru itself.

But, the perennial problem, where to start?

Well, how about those dainty little Saltenas de Queso, the Peruvian version of deep-fried cheese empanadas, or the Solterito Arequipeno, an alternately tart and sweet salad from Arequipo (the proud, rather aloof southern city that other Peruvians refer to only half-jokingly as "the Republic of Arequipo").

With one of the most productive fisheries in the world sitting right off its coast, Peru, of course, has long been famous for its seafood. So, how about starting your meal with the Ceviche, a Peruvian national dish consisting of fresh raw fish, in this case snapper, marinated in tart lime juice, seasoned with red onion, garlic, coriander and crunchy, raw chilies, and garnished with lettuce, sweet potatoes and starchy Andean corn. Or, how about the Choros ala Chalaca, delicious marinated small mussels in the shell.

Or again, you could always try my favorite, the deliciously satisfying European-style Chupe de Camarones, a fragrant crayfish chowder containing an abundance of fish, as well as corn, rice, peas, yellow potatoes and fresh cheese, flavored with chilies and topped with poached eggs.

And so on to the principal challenge of the evening: How to choose a main course from the wealth of delights on offer? Well, you could try the Tacu-Tacu, a Peruvian national dish descended from the Incas, and still a staple in the Andes region.

Simple but satisfying, Tacu-Tacu in some ways corresponds to the role of nasi goreng (fried rice) in the Indonesian diet, and consists of red beans and rice fried as a cake and topped with a slice of fatty fried pork, and an egg fried sunny-side up right before your eyes -- not so good from the cholesterol perspective, but absolutely delicious for all that.

Or perhaps, the lingering taste of the Incas in a classic national dish such as Anticuchos de Res, small bites of marinated beef heart cooked on skewers over the grill, would be more to your taste?

Alternatively, you could just do as I did and wander around eagerly sampling a little of everything on offer.

With plate of white rice firmly in hand, I commenced my Latin culinary reawakening with the Estofado de Carne, a rich and hearty stew, with thick chunks of beef, potatoes and peas, and a wondrously tangy sauce.

This was followed by the pureed and not very attractive looking Aji de Gallina (chicken chili). But looks can deceive, and so it turned out in this case with the chicken chili turning out to be based upon a satisfyingly cheesy sauce -- although not much in the way of tongue-tickling chilies were found by this reviewer (Jakarta locals could well be disappointed).

But the piece de resistance of the entire promotion were the fire-engine red stuffed peppers, or Rocoto Relleno. Filled with a sumptuous mixture of ground beef, cheese, pieces of boiled egg and currents, these monster peppers were each a meal in themselves and certainly, for me, were the highlight of a memorable evening of epicurean excess.

While rounding of my meal in an abject display of gluttony at the dessert counter, I couldn't help wondering why that most famous Andean delicacy of all, roast guinea pig (I kid you not) was absent from the menu. Perhaps it was felt that selecting which cuddly little rodent was to go into the oven (as happens in Peru in the same way a diner selects his lobster), would be too much for the more timorous diners of Jakarta.

Well, all I can say is, don't be so sure!

Peruvian food promotion at the Kempinski Hotel Plaza, Jl. Sudirman, Kav. 10-11, Jakarta 10220, running through Nov. 8. Price: Rp 95,000 ++ per person. You can call them on (021) 2510888 or (021) 5727272.