People in Kudus live in religious harmony

People in Kudus live in religious harmony

By Wahyuni Kamah

KUDUS, Central Java (JP): After a bit of bargaining, a pedicab
driver finally agreed to take me to Kudus Tower from the town
square for Rp 4,000. Becak (pedicab) is the main mode of
transport in this small town, 55 kilometers east of the Central
Java capital Semarang.

Despite the heat, the town was lively. Though Kudus was once
at the forefront of the spread of Islam, now the town is home to
people of all religions.

During the fasting month of Ramadhan, not all of the residents
fast. Some small restaurants remain open during the day and
people can be seen eating and drinking. However, approaching
Kudus Tower -- the town's mascot -- the nuances of Islamic life
are apparent. Some sarong-clad students of an Islamic boarding
school walk past carrying the Koran, while kiosks selling cloth,
perfumes, books and dates stand along the road leading to the
gate of a mosque.

Kudus Tower and Al Aqsa Mosque, or Kudus Mosque, attract many
visitors because of their historical values; they are symbols of
the past Islamic glory and harmony in Java.

Of all the city names in Indonesia, perhaps only Kudus is
Arabic in origin. It stems from al quds, which means holy.
According to legend, Kudus was named after Al Quds (the ancient
name for what is now Jerusalem).

While Jafar Shodiq, later called Sunan Kudus, one of the Wali
Songo -- the nine Islamic saints that disseminated Islam -- was
studying in Mecca, an epidemic broke out there. He successfully
freed the people and the area from the disease. Jafar was offered
a reward by the emir (head of the government) for his deed, but
he modestly refused it. Instead, he asked for a piece of rock
from Baital Maqdis (Jerusalem). When he returned to Java, he took
the rock with him. In 1549, Jafar founded Kudus Mosque and
fastened the rock in its mihrab, a niche in the mosque wall
facing Mecca.

The mosque was named Al Aqsa after Al Aqsa Mosque in
Jerusalem. In 1919 the mosque was repaired and expanded. The
present veranda was added during the expansion. Its domed roof
resembles the Dome of Rock, one of the Muslims' holy shrines in
Jerusalem. Moreover, whether it is a coincidence or not, 18
kilometers to the north of Al Aqsa Mosque in Kudus stands Mt.
Muria, while to the north of Al Aqsa Mosque in Jerusalem stands a
mountain with a similar name, Mt. Moriah.

Tolerant

Sunan Kudus was a well-known thinker and tolerant scholar. In
spreading Islam in the once Hindu dominated area of North Java,
Sunan Kudus did not want to alienate the locals and this was
expressed in his tower's architecture.

At first glance, the extraordinary Kudus Tower does not appear
to be the tower of a mosque because of its Hindu architecture.
The bedug (big drum) was placed on the top level of this earthen
concrete brick tower, where it was beaten to call the people to
prayer.

This elegant old tower, according to Dutch historian Krom, was
built in the beginning of 16th century at the latest. The peak of
the tower is not the original, which was destroyed in 1947. The
distinction is in the decorations on the walls of the tower,
where ceramic plates are inserted. These decorations are
characteristic of the early mosque in Java.

In his lifetime, Sunan Kudus, who also founded Kudus, banned
his Muslim followers from slaughtering cows and eating their
flesh out of respect for the Hindus, who believe the cow is a
holy animal. This tradition continues today. It is extremely
difficult to find beef in the city, and restaurants and food
vendors mainly serve buffalo or chicken.

The indigenous and Chinese-Indonesian residents seem to live
harmoniously in this town, as witnessed by the several small
churches found about town.

During Ramadhan Al Aqsa Mosque is crowded. People young and
old come to pray and recite the Koran. The mosque compound also
includes the graves of Sunan Kudus and many of his followers.

"Except during the fasting month, hundreds of Muslim pilgrims
from all over Java crowd around the tomb every day. You cannot
even approach his tomb in the peak season," the tomb's caretaker,
said. The pilgrims come to pray to this saint and scholar or to
seek his blessings.

Cigarette

When people mention Kudus now, it usually brings to mind
cigarettes. The town has also produced many leading
businesspeople, including Noto Semito, a Javanese businessman who
invented rokok kretek (clove flavored cigarettes) and pioneered
the cigarette industry in Kudus in the early 1900s. He is known
as the Father of Kretek.

The history of the cigarette industry in Kudus is documented
at the Museum Kretek in dioramas and various objects, such as old
packs of Kudus-made cigarettes and the instruments used to
produce the cigarettes.

Four large cigarette companies are currently located in the
town, putting money into the Kudus economy.

"Kudus is the biggest tobacco tax payer in Indonesia," the
museum's guide, Abu, said. "As a result of its ever-growing
industry, most of its residents are employed."