Pelni, a disaster waiting to happen

I have recently completed a voyage on the Bukit Siguntang from Jakarta to Dobo, Pulau Aru. This took six days and, because of my age, 71, I decided to have a little luxury and to travel first class. Quite frankly this was a waste of money as the only advantage was to share a two-berth cabin with its own shower and toilet. Apart from this I might as well have traveled "Tiga Wisata" or even economy.

The food was poor and breakfasts were virtually identical to third class -- although after I complained they did improve slightly. I bought the meals provided and, allowing for mass catering, it was evident that the cost of the actual food was less than 5,000 rupiah per head per day. The service was virtually nonexistent as the staff were only interested in getting one out of the dining room, but this was the better part of the journey.

From Tanjung Priok to Ambon the boat was so overcrowded that the whole of the first class area -- including the passages outside the cabins -- was filled with economy passengers. All the exterior doors on Deck six were not only blocked but also locked throughout the trip and the stairs were usually blocked with seated passengers and luggage and the landings were being used for sleeping. It was very difficult to get on deck.

While I did not descend to Decks 2 or 3, I estimate that the boat was carrying between 1,500 and 2,000 passengers above its capacity.

What would have happened had there been an emergency? There is no way that I could have followed the directions to my assembly point. If I could have gotten there, the chances of getting on a lifeboat would have been nonexistent. I doubt that I could even have gotten on deck, with or without my life jacket. As for the economy passengers, at least 50 percent of them would not even have a life jacket. I regard this as disgraceful and contrary to all normally accepted maritime law.

While I was away it seems that Pelni once again increased their fares -- this time by 40 percent. I was quoted Rp 1,926,000 for the trip from Tual (Pulau Kei) to Tanjung Priok -- and was denied a 20 percent discount for my age. On inquiring at Merpati, I found that I could return to Jakarta in eight hours at a cost of Rp 2,000,036. I did.

JOHN WILLIAM STARR, Jakarta