Sun, 15 Jul 2001

Pearls, unique organic gems with incandescent glow

By Roland M. Sutrisno

JAKARTA (JP): A unique organic "gem" from the bottom of the sea with an amazing luminous glow, pearls are admired by almost everyone. They gleam under the sun, their characteristic whiteness rivaled by none. Many carsmakers are now even trying to imitate the white hues of the pearly sheen, so as to sparkle when exposed to direct sunlight.

Since time immemorial, pearls have been ornaments of the nobility and pearl-bearing seas a target of investors. Today, pearls can be artificially cultured; they are called fresh water pearls.

Origin

In Indian mythology, pearls are said to be dewdrops from paradise that fell into the sea and were captured by oysters. The Jews believe that they came from the tears of Eve, who was expelled from the Garden of Eden. In China, pearls became a symbol of fortune, honor and longevity. Until the 17th century, pearls were believed to have medicinal properties in Europe.

These lustrous gems were discovered in China in 2200 BC and used as a means of tax and tribute payment. Ancient Persians made clothing with pearl-studded embroidery, pearl strings and ornaments and regarded the stones as valuable and prestigious. In the middle ages, pearls were the favorite and exclusive treasure of aristocrats.

Catherine de Medici went to France in 1532 AD to be married to Henry, Duke of Orleans, and presented six strands of the finest pearls and 25 larger ones to Mary Stuart (1542-1587). However, after Mary's demise Medici sold them to Elizabeth I (1533-1603) as worthless objects.

Pearls maintained their standing as symbols of prestige until the dawn of the 19th century. Their mass production began in 1955. The pearl industry was set up by Kokichi Mikimoto, known as the "pearl king". To date, farmed or cultured pearls are sold at only one tenth of the price of those produced naturally within oysters.

The major chemical element in pearls is aragonite, or CaCO3. Their level of solidity on the Mohs scale ranges from 2.5 to 4.5, and their specific gravity is around 2.7 to 2.8.

In daily life, pearls currently serve as ornaments and embroidery adornments for clothes, besides as necklaces, earrings and bracelets.

Pearls are believed to influence daily activities, preventing heart attacks, hypertension and headaches. They are also said to heal wounds or ulcers and symbolize modesty and purity.

If pearls are used along with other jewels like emeralds or rubies, they can ward off negative energy seeking to penetrate the human body. All signs of the Zodiac are compatible with pearls, particularly those working as artists, farmers and chiropractors. By using pearls, peace can be induced and emotions kept under restraint.

Producers

The Persian Gulf, the Mannar Gulf near Sri Lanka and India, Japan, Tennessee (USA) and Australia are major pearl producers. The largest fresh water pearl center is located in lake Biwa, Honshu, Japan, with 100 breeders. Burma also produce fresh water light-yellow, reddish or pink pearls. Australia, China and Tennessee are now producing cultured pearls as well.

Fake pearls can still be found along with genuine ones. In order to distinguish between the two, sophisticated and simple methods can be applied. The former uses an X-ray machine, which is capable of detecting the genuine nature of pearls. This device is very expensive and hazardous to unskilled operators.

The latter method entails biting the outer skin of the pearls in question. If the skin does not peel off, they are true pearls; otherwise, they are fake. Upon purchase, the permission of sellers should of course be sought before doing this.

On the other hand, it is hard for the layman to distinguish fresh water or cultured pearls from the natural gems from deep- sea exploration. A close examination of pearls under natural sunlight will show that fresh water pearls are less lustrous and lack the yellowish tint that is the typical feature of natural ones. Both cultured and natural pearls, however, come from live oysters unlike the fake beads.

Price and colors

Pearls of higher value have clear bright yellowish shades. Natural pearls from the sea are a lot more expensive; they can cost ten times the price of cultured pearls.

Metallic black is the color most sought after and fetches the highest price. The other colors commonly found are white, light- yellow, pink, rosy yellow, red, purple, violet, blue and green. Fresh water pearls have red, purple, violet, blue or green as their typical hues.

Genuine pearls have the following forms: round, pear-shaped, teardrop-shaped, oval and granular. Their surface is generally rather rough and wavy, so that those with a smooth and fine surface are expensive and of high quality. All pearls suit everybody regardless of Zodiac signs.

Another gem resembling pearls is mabe, which lacks the luster and clarity of genuine pearls. Mabe belongs to the category of oyster shells. Buyers, therefore, should consult dealers before purchasing true pearls.