Para Para serves delectable local cuisine

JAKARTA (JP): After an arduous and hair-raising journey across Jakarta in rush hour traffic, it was a decidedly disheveled and ruffled Epicurus and partner who emerged from their taxi in front of the Kedai Para Para restaurant on Jl. Bangka Raya in the heart of South Jakarta's flourishing expatriate district.

All notions of goodwill had by this stage been expunged from Epicurus' heart and had been replaced by vile and malignant thoughts suffused with the infliction of nefarious acts upon others.

Thus, it was with malice aforethought that Epicurus and partner determinedly approached their objective only to find themselves promptly mollified upon entry by the genuine smile and warmth of an attending waiter who immediately made us feel at ease.

After much to-ing and fro-ing, Epicurus and partner finally found themselves seated at a simply-laid table.

The delay in settling in was not an altogether bad thing as it afforded canny Epicurus an opportunity to survey his environs at some length.

The restaurant was divided into four separate and compact areas with each section being home to a maximum of three tables, some of which by their size were obviously designed for parties.

All of the compartments were tastefully designed and furnished in traditional style, but Epicurus was nevertheless left wondering what would have transpired should a brash party have arrived and elected to seat itself in Epicurus' domain, and could not help feeling that the seeds of disaster could lie therein.

Such a ghastly premonition failed to materialize, however, as the restaurant remained virtually empty until Epicurus' departure at approximately 10:30 p.m.

The menu was a hodgepodge of traditional Indonesian dishes drawn from all over the Western part of the country.

For drinks, Epicurus and partner ordered a pineapple juice and an orange juice respectively, both of which were excellent, although Epicurus was of the opinion that less sweetening would have been preferable. However, his partner assured him that somewhat syrupy beverages were in perfect accord with the Indonesian palate.

As a starter, Epicurus ordered Udang Gulung - shrimp rolls - and Perkedel Jagung - corn fritters - while his accomplice ordered Asinan Betawi - Betawi mixed vegetable salad.

The portions were extremely large, enough for two in fact, and, at an average price of Rp 13,000, were extremely good value as well as being very appetizing.

Epicurus and friend then proceeded to order the main courses. Epicurus selected the Gulai Kambing which was described in the menu as "Medan lamb curry served with potatoes and jala bread" (Rp 25,000), while his partner settled for Nasi Goreng Ayam - chicken fried rice (Rp 17,500). Both also ordered a portion of Rendang - a spicy West Sumatran dish of beef cubes marinated in coconut milk, which was described in the menu as the chef's speciality.

Epicurus was of the opinion that the Gulai was delicious, reminiscent of Madras curries from India while at the same time allowing the Indonesian flavors to emerge.

Meanwhile, Epicurus' associate was thoroughly enchanted with her selection, although, upon sampling, Epicurus was inclined to the view that the sweet soya sauce was a little preponderant.

The Rendang, unfortunately, drew groans from both parties. Although appropriately spicy, the meat itself was tough to the point of tooth breakage and was a sad reflection of a chef's speciality.

At this point, Epicurus would like to make some observations on middle-range Indonesian restaurants in general. As with the Kedai Para Para, too often the general ambience is flawed by little matters of inattention. Why, for example, is it not possible to provide cloth napkins instead of the paper or tissue serviettes that are so ubiquitous? Why are restaurateurs loath to provide proper fold-out menus rather than plastic or laminated menu sheets? And, most seriously, why do Indonesian restaurants insist on translating Kambing as lamb (as in the case of Epicurus' gulai kambing) whereas, in fact, it is goat or kid? This is certainly misleading to diners if not downright mendacious.

Despite these quibbles, which by no means apply uniquely to the Kedai Para Para, on the whole Epicurus and partner were much taken by the ambience of the restaurant, the courteous and friendly service and the generally excellent food (apart from the Rendang) and would have no hesitation in recommending this restaurant for a pleasant dining experience.

--Epicurus