'Pandanus war' ritual attracts and repels

By Kadek Suartaya

DENPASAR, Bali (JP): The ancient Balinese village of Tenganan Pagringsingan in Karangasem regency has a unique religious tradition mekare-kare, in which thorny pandanus leaves are used in a duel.

People from outside the village call the bloody attraction "pandanus war".

The ritual in the village situated about 60 kilometers east of Denpasar can only be seen during the Hindu religious ritual Usaba Sambah, one of the most important religious ceremonies in the village. The ritual, which aims to repel evil spirits, takes place between June and July. The ritual last took place on June 18.

Armed with pandanus leaves, the Balinese youths fight like men, ignoring the blood that covers their bodies. For local youths, participating in the pandanus war is an honor.

The duel is watched by local girls clad in traditional Balinese attire. They act as cheerleaders.

Customary laws allow only Tenganan village youngsters to fight. But as the ritual has developed over time, older people and children are now also allowed to participate. Today, people from outside the village, and even foreign tourists, are allowed to try their hands at fighting if they have the guts and the consent of the customary leaders.

On June 18, the duel started at midday, when the scorching sun was directly above everybody's head. It took place in front of Bale Agung, a sacred long village hall, which has a palm fiber roof. Villagers gathered at the building wearing traditional Balinese costumes. Men wore Balinese sarongs and headbands (udeng), and were shirtless.

As soon as the traditional music played the mekare-kare song, the fighters began hitting each other with pandanus leaves. Each fighter clutched a bunch of 30 centimeter-long pandanus leaves in their right hand, and a rattan or bamboo shield in their left hand.

There were several referees squatting around the arena ready to intervene if the fight became too brutal, or if a fighter broke the rules of the game.

The legal target is any part of the body between the neck and the navel. There is no set time limit to the fight. If any of the fighters can no longer bear the pain, and can no longer afford to lose blood, the fight can be stopped. Those who are not satisfied with their performance, and who are still strong enough, may resume fighting with the same opponent or a new one.

The cheerleaders' screaming, together with the energetic music playing in the background, obviously boosted the fighters' spirit. The scorching sun was no impediment to their efforts.

People who had finished their bouts were seated outside the arena. Blood and sweat dripped from their bodies. Fighters awaiting their turn wearily looked around for potential opponents.

Aren't the wounds painful? Obviously they are. But the daring fighters do not have anything to worry about as long as the traditional medicine men are around. The medical team will apply boreh on the wounds. This is a mixture of traditional ingredients comprising crushed turmeric, kemiri (candlenut) and vinegar. The formula is said to be highly effective. Wounds are said to heal in less than a week without leaving a scar.

The festivity ended at dusk. All the fighters gathered in the community hall for dinner. Everyone buried the hatchet to tuck into typical Balinese food, such as lawar (vegetables with shredded pork), komoh (pork soup), oret (pork sausage) and steaming hot rice. There was no room for individuals to bear grudges. Everyone sat in a large circle and shared jokes.

Mangku Widia, aged 67, a Hindu religious leader in Tenganan said the bloody ritual was originally a ceremony to mark the entry of a youth to adulthood.

For I Mudita, aged 70, a painter and writer, the duel signifies recognition of one's adulthood. The pandanus leaf -- locally believed to have the magic power of repulsing evil spirits -- symbolizes self-control.

People outside Tenganan believe the bloody contest is a ritual to evict evil spirits. In other areas of Bali, animal blood is used in the ritual, and no human blood is spilled. In some areas, roosters fight in a ceremony to symbolize the war.