Oscar Lawalata tests the waters of haute couture

By Muara Bagdja

JAKARTA (JP): Oscar Lawalata took another step in his career when he presented his new collection -- what he termed couture -- at the swimming pool of the Bung Karno Sports Stadium in Central Jakarta last week.

Some 50 designs, including menswear, were displayed on a runway built surrounding the pool, with entertainment of dancing, singing, diving and water ballet included. It was capped off with a fireworks display.

Previously known for subdued, ethnic-influenced ready-to-wear designs, Oscar this time presented a modern, beautiful and gleaming fashion collection, with floral-shaped sequined patterns adorned over fine cloth such as chiffon and lace.

"Nearly all of my gown designs, about 90 percent, are handmade and without a pattern," said the 24-year-old designer, who catapulted to fame after finishing second at the 1999 ASEAN Young Designers Contest in Singapore.

What he meant was that he frequently designs his gowns by winding a piece of cloth over a mannequin to form the drapery. He then cuts the design, tying it around the next of the mannequin with thread or sewing it at the back.

The sequins, meticulously sewn one by one on the design, mark a departure from his plain designs of the past (for one of the most intricate designs it took him a month to sew on the sequins).

"For me, the couture concept is difficult and fully detailed work," he added.

On a hanger, Oscar's designs look like irregular-shaped pieces of cloth. It is only when they are worn that they appear as gowns that sway in their asymmetric and sensual cuttings.

A piece of cloth placed around the neck by Oscar's hands becomes a blouse in the style of a halter. Another piece of chiffon cloth, when draped over the body, becomes a beautiful and sexy gown, revealing the back and showing the asymmetric skirt edge.

Embellished with large corsages worn on the head and calf- length lace-up boots, Oscar's gowns, dominated by a halter style and drapery, reflected the combined visions of a Spanish girl and a Greek goddess on the Mediterranean seashore, with the blue water of the pool as the background on the night.

So that is the way Oscar interprets the couture concept. The idea seems to have developed beyond the understanding of couture in its country of origin, France. As we all know, a haute couture gown is not simply a glittering evening gown that is handmade and fully decorated.

Couture also includes creativity in terms of concept, technique and image as a whole. A haute couture gown is like an artist's masterpiece. Couture is an innovative formula for making dresses and results from incredible research and technique, hence the name "haute" from the French for "of a high standard".

Then, why did this young designer, renowned for his contemporary style, try his hand at couture?

"I get ideas which simply flow from around me, like magazines, music and my surroundings. From there I learned what style is appropriate for today's fashion. And that is couture."

Oscar is indeed good at interpreting the currents of the fashion world. Indonesian designers have recently begun making expensive evening gowns. These gowns for the upper-class market are becoming a new target in the apparel business amid competition with internationally made dresses, which are coming into the country in increasing numbers.

"It is quite difficult to compete in the current retail fashion business as many dresses are mass produced and their prices are lower. In terms of business, I am therefore trying to design more expensive gowns for the upper class," he explained, surrounded by dressmakers putting the sequins on his creations at his boutique in South Jakarta several days before the show.

Sequins

Well, he is onto something. Sequins are now the most effective formula to ensure brisk sales of luxury gowns, but it was only a few months ago that Oscar turned down an offer that would have required him to accentuate the use of sequins in his designs.

His designs presented on the night were inlaid with sequins as their main attraction. Sequins with floral ornaments were placed on various parts of the gowns, starting from the shoulder straps, on the menswear, even on the bottom part of the hotpants worn by Ria Juwita, a model with the most beautiful legs.

"At first, I was not really interested in sequins. But, in trying to use them, I found that they could be used in a variety of forms. Because I am attracted to these sequins, I thought I would continue developing their use."

Oscar insists he will not remain stuck in one discipline. That is why couture in his version appears unrestrained as he cuts it as he likes, combining hard and soft fabrics such as chiffon and jeans or lace and micro-cloths. His designs include not only long dresses and long skirts but also mini skirts and hotpants. They even have the edges unsewn or left unfinished.

"These gowns of mine have captured my customers' attention, though it hasn't been too strong," he said.

But it would be too liberal a definition to call the new pieces haute couture, something which is associated with distinct beauty, a precision of technique and a perfect quality of the work.

The shift in the interpretation of "couture" was not the only regrettable aspect of the show. The sponsors also should have been more respectful in appreciating the designer's collection. They should have given the designer a real chance for a solo showing of his designs, and not merely used the event as an opportunity to promote their products.

For, ultimately, a fashion show is a statement that a designer makes about his works and image. And Oscar Lawalata himself said what he had to offer was the high art of couture.