Oscar Lawalata tests the waters of contemporary couture

Oscar Lawalata tests the waters of contemporary couture

By Muara Bagdja

JAKARTA (JP): Oscar Lawalata took another step in his career
when he presented his new collection -- what he termed couture --
at the swimming pool of Bung Karno Sports Stadium in Central
Jakarta last week.

Some 50 designs, including menswear, were displayed on a
runway built surrounding the pool, with entertainment of dancing,
singing, diving and water ballet included. It was capped off with
a fireworks display.

Previously known for subdued, ethnic influenced ready-to-wear
designs, Oscar this time presented a modern, beautiful and
gleaming fashion collection, with floral-shaped sequined patterns
adorned over fine cloth such as chiffon and lace.

"Nearly all of my gown designs, about 90 percent, are hand-
made and without a pattern," said the 24-year-old designer, who
was catapulted to fame after finishing second in the ASEAN Young
Designers Contest of 1999 in Singapore.

What he meant was that he frequently designs his gowns by
directly winding a piece of cloth over a mannequin to form the
drapery. He then cuts the design, tying it around the next of the
mannequin with thread or sewing it at the back.

The sequins, meticulously sewn piece by piece on the design,
are different from his plain designs of the past (for one of the
most intricate designs it took him a month to sew on the
sequins).

"For me, the couture concept is difficult and fully detailed
work," he added.

On a hanger, Oscar's work look like irregular-shaped pieces of
cloth. It is only when they are put on the body that they appear
as gowns that sway in their asymmetric and sensual cutting.

A piece of cloth placed around the neck in Oscar's hands
becomes a blouse in the style of a halter. Another piece of
chiffon cloth was draped over the body so that the gown looked
beautiful as well as sexy, revealing the back and showing the
asymmetric skirt edge.

Embellished with a large corsage worn on the head and calf-
length lace-up boots, Oscar's gowns, dominated with a halter
style and drapery, reflect the combined visions of a Spanish girl
and a Greek goddess at the Mediterranean seashore, with the blue
water of the pool as the background on the night.

So that is the way Oscar interprets the couture concept. The
idea seems to have developed farther from the understanding of
couture in its country of origin, France. As we all know, a
haute couture gown is not simply a glittering evening gown that
is handmade and fully decorated.

Couture also includes creativity in terms of concept,
technique and image as a whole. A haute couture gown is like an
artist's masterpiece. Couture is an innovative formula in making
dresses and results from incredible research and technique, hence
the name "haute" from the French for of a high standard.

Then, why did this young designer, renowned for his
contemporary style, try his hand at couture?

"I get ideas which simply flow from around me, like magazines,
music and my surroundings. From there I learned what style is
appropriate for today's fashion. And, that is couture."

Oscar is indeed good at interpreting the current of the
fashion world. Indonesian designers have recently begun making
expensive night gowns. Gowns for the high class market are
becoming a new target in the apparel business amid competition
with internationally made dresses, which are coming into the
country in an increasing number.

"It is quite difficult to compete in the current retail
fashion business as many dresses are mass produced and their
prices are also lower. In terms of business, I therefore try to
design more expensive gowns for the upper class," he explained,
surrounded by dressmakers putting the sequins on his creations,
at his boutique in South Jakarta a couple of days before the
show.

Sequins

Well, he is onto something. Sequins are now the most effective
formula to get good sales in luxury gowns, but it was only a few
months ago that Oscar turned down an offer that required that he
accentuate the use of sequins in his design.

His dresses presented on the night were inlaid with sequins as
their main attraction. The sequins with floral ornaments were
placed in various parts of the dress, starting from the shoulder
straps, in the menswear, even in the bottom part of the hotpants
worn by Ria Juwita, a model with the most beautiful legs.

"At the beginning, I was not really interested in sequins.
But, in trying to use them, I found that they could be used in a
variety of forms. As I am attracted to these sequins, I thought I
would continue developing their use."

Oscar insists that he will not remain stuck in one discipline.
That is why couture in his version appears unrestrained as he
cuts it as he likes, combining hard and soft fabrics such as
chiffon and jeans or lace and micro-cloths. His designs include
not only long dresses and long skirts but also mini skirts and
hotpants. They even have the edges unsewn, or left unfinished.

"These gowns of mine have captured my customers' attention,
though it hasn't been too strong," he said.

But it would be too liberal a definition to call the new
pieces haute couture, something which is associated with distinct
beauty, the precision of the technique and the perfect quality of
the work.

What was also regrettable from the show was not merely the
shift in the interpretation of "couture". Its sponsors should
also have been more ethical in deciding to appreciate the
designer's collection in his fashion show. They should have given
the designer a real chance for a solo show of his designs, and
not merely used the opportunity as part of their product
promotion.

For, ultimately, a fashion show is a statement that a designer
makes about his works and image. And Oscar Lawalata himself said
what he had to offer was the high art of couture.