Orang Laut tribe stays true to the sea

Orang Laut tribe stays true to the sea

Fadli
The Jakarta Post/Batam

Muhammad Din was busy fixing his fishing net in the kitchen of
his modest wooden house on Air Mas island, Nongsa district in
Batam, Riau Islands province.

No furniture was seen in the house of the 61-year-old chief of
the Orang Suku Laut tribespeople apart from a kerosene stove and
some plates lying on the floor.

Din and 23 other families from the tribe are now living on
land, in the Air Mas Suku Laut settlement, initiated by two non-
governmental organizations (NGOs) the names of which have escaped
Din's memory.

The only access to the remote Air Mas island is by chartered
boat, costing Rp 75,000 (US$7.50) for a single trip which only
takes about 30 minutes to reach.

Din said the settlement started when the NGOs offered the
Orang Laut assistance in the form of homes on land. They have
lived nomadic lives on wooden boats together with their families
-- sleeping, cooking, bathing, and even giving birth on board,
from the time of their forefathers.

The village where they now live is divided into two sections,
one consisting of four Muslim families and the other for
Christian families. The communal bathrooms are also separated.

Din estimates there are about 100 inhabitants in the village
but does not know the reason behind the division.

Both communities, he said, have lived side by side, sharing
what they have, including water for their bathrooms when the
wells run dry.

"Many from the Christian faith are my younger siblings and
relatives. They still ask for my advice since they consider me
their elder. Life's the same here, except for the difference in
faiths. We're still brothers and sisters," Din told The Jakarta
Post.

The tribespeople -- who can only be found around Riau Islands,
living among the chain of islands in the country's youngest
province while those still living on boats, which could reach
thousands -- depend on the weather and wind direction in their
daily activities.

During the northerly winds, which usually occur in November
and ends in March, when the wind is strong and waves are high,
the Orang Laut will tie up their boats ashore.

The southerly winds from April until October, is the time when
they set sail around Riau Islands, sometimes until the South
China Sea, searching for fish which they barter for various basic
necessities, like rice, instant noodles and cigarettes. Others
barter their catch for television sets.

For the Orang Laut, life on the sea is just like living on
land.

For example, when they are holding a wedding ceremony, the
host will tie his boat to his neighbors' boats so that they will
be fastened together making ample space for dining together and
greeting guests.

If a Muslim couple is to be married, a Muslim cleric will be
fetched to perform the ceremony.

Likewise when giving birth, they will bring in the midwife
before the expected day. Everything runs smoothly, just like
living on land.

"Many of our relatives are still sailing the seas on their
boats. Perhaps they choose not to live on land," said Din, who
has 14 children.

Din himself had lived at sea since he was born until 2002, the
time when he took the offer to settle on land.

"Those of the Muslim faith will be assisted by a Muslim-based
NGO, while those of the Christian faith by a Christian-based one.
The NGOs have helped us in obtaining houses and cash assistance
for our children's school fees," said Din.

The man can only afford to put three of his 14 children, aged
between six years and 13 years old, to school, while the eldest
one is already married.

He recalled that the early stages of living on land were the
hardest because he was used to living at sea. Once, he returned
to his boat with his family after staying on land for only two
weeks, but his children already felt at ease living on land.

"They kept screaming when a huge waves hit our boat. The
youngest one insisted that we return to the house on land. They
no longer liked staying on the boat," Din recalled.

Since then, Din decided to live on land, as were the other
families in Air Mas village, where most of them earn a living
as fishermen.

However, Din confessed that their traditions have gradually
changed after moving on land as the people have become somewhat
materialistic in nature due to the frequent visits by social
agencies and constant publicity by the media.

Village children and youths would ask for money from strangers
visiting the village. They are not ashamed to mention the amount
they want even from a short conversation with the visitors.

"It's a tradition for children and youths, and even old folks
to ask for money from strangers because we're poor," said Din.