Ong dazzles with idiosyncratic style
Chisato Hara, The Jakarta Post, Kuala Lumpur
In a quiet, unassuming hall just off the main atrium of Kuala Lumpur Plaza is a small glass-front boutique all in white: Ong's Collection. Within, three women are visible, sitting around a small round table and working steadily on pieces of clothing.
A security buzzer admits visitors, who are led past a row of dresses to a small lounge-office, where they are invited to sit on a comfortable gold couch. Fabric samples of all colors and textures are arrayed in built-in alcoves, and a small but full floor-to-ceiling bookcase holds glossy fashion books and magazines.
From an arched door enters Malaysian designer Michael Ong in faded jeans and a tangerine singlet, his oversized sunglasses nestled in his spiked hair. Like his minimalist, yet warm boutique, Ong appears clean-cut and casual at the same time while bursting with a flurry of energy.
He is immediately open and companionable, and oozes a joie de vivre in what he does.
"The KL Fashion Week is a great opportunity for us Malaysian designers to show our collection -- big or small -- and see what other leading designers are doing in the region," he said, speaking the day after his showing during the May 3-May 8 event.
Ong was one of the designers featured on the May 3 fashion gala night to open the fashion week, but unlike most of the other collections that sailed past on the slim frames of striding models, his was actually a show.
Young skateboarders and breakdancers from VE Group, a local performance agency, introduced his collection in leisurewear that glittered like disco balls, doing tricks and stunts at the edge of the catwalk and wowing the black-tie guests. As the spunky troupe did their thing, an ensemble of models with gold-leaf makeup gathered onstage, struck a pose and held it, giving guests a "preview" of the collection to come.
"Well, you see, I used a different fashion show management company than the official one for KL Fashion Week. I've used the same manager for all my shows since 1993 -- Cilla Foong & Associates," he said, smiling. Cilla was a great fashion model in her time -- one of the first Malaysian models to get to Paris. She's done shows for Louis Vuitton, Christian Dior. She's stylish and experienced -- she's taking the catwalk to the next level."
Last season, Ong presented a collection using kua -- a Chinese brocade fabric that is sold pre-patterned, like a kebaya -- which he "recycled" into satin cocktail dresses. He opened that show with a traditional Chinese lion dance.
His latest collection, Colour Fusion, is "resort glam" -- stylish, loose-fitting leisurewear with a bit of funk thrown into the mix. Ong is clearly in love with the fabric, cotton neet, a kind of jersey that is stretchable, yet keeps its shape, and which he imported from Japan.
"It's easy to pack, wrinkle-free and doesn't stretch out of shape," he said. "I was inspired by the 1980s breakdancing trend -- and the weather. Malaysia is so hot! And cotton neet is cool -- an added bonus is it has a slimming feel," Ong said, demonstrating with his singlet, then sighed. "My stomach used to be so flat," he added mournfully.
"I just didn't want to do chiffon or lace -- everyone's doing it. But you can't be too different -- you have to follow the silhouette of the season." But the color scheme is all Ong.
Colour Fusion is an apt theme for the clothing in bold neon hues of tangerine, turquoise, sunflower, red and fuchsia. The collection includes slinky black cocktail dresses with abstract insect appliques that stretch from breast to hem.
Beads from Africa and India, crystal rhinestones and sequins in bronze and copper, all sewn on by hand, enhance the cut and draping. Completing the look are handmade shoes and unisex shoulder bags in pony leather dyed to match.
"You can't get pony leather here, so I had to import it specially from Hong Kong."
The overall effect is playful elegance.
Fashion "is my passion and my dream" said Ong, who completed his first pair of tailored trousers at the age of 16. Two years later, he presented his first solo show after he was "discovered" by Foong, who is both mentor and muse to Ong. Since then, he has showed at least twice every year.
In 2000, he became the first Malaysian designer invited to show at the Floating World Tour in Toronto, sponsored by cosmetics giant MAC.
"Look -- see? Michael Ong, Malaysia," he said, taking down a framed certificate of participating designers from the show.
While the KL Fashion Show, supported for the first time this year by the Malaysian tourism board, has a vision to turn Kuala Lumpur into Asia's fashion hub, Ong has his doubts.
"Because of the dress restrictions as a Muslim country," he stated. "Our artists can't be sexy."
He counted off some of the restrictions: dresses can be no lower than the bra line, the cleavage cannot be exposed, nor can shoulders or armpits, and no micro-minis. As for the relatively risque pieces shown during the fashion week, "These are only for the shows," said Ong, waving his hand dismissively.
For example, he continued, upper-class women who came to his boutique mostly walk away empty-handed: "They like my designs, but are usually looking for conservative, elegant dresses to wear to royal balls and other high society gatherings." Only occasionally do they make a purchase -- that is, if they are going on an overseas trip, like on a Parisian getaway.
As for the neighboring industry across the Strait of Malacca, Ong is exuberant: "I love Indonesian beadwork. I love Biyan. He's sooo detailed," he gushed. "And Sebastian Gunawan, and...," he intoned.
Ong was invited to show in Indonesia last year, but was already fully booked.
"If I'm invited again this year, I would love to show in Indonesia. The women there are so individual, so bold and willing to try out new designs and colors. Hey -- do you know Krisdayanti?"
He reached over to his bookcase and pulled out a hardcover biography on the popular Indonesian singer and fashion icon, still in its protective plastic cover.
"She's daring," he began, but ran out of words. "There's just something about this woman...," he said, gazing at the cover photograph.
By appointment: Ong's Collection, KL Plaza, ground floor, Lot D5, Jl. Bukit Bintang 179, 55100 Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia. Tel: +60-3- 21431171.