Sun, 21 Aug 2005

One-day passage to the heart of Macau

Ven Handojo, Contributor, Macau

The one-hour ferry ride from Hong Kong Island ended in the sea port of Macau. The island is a gamblers' paradise, but none of the ferry passengers looked like world-class gamblers, with their signature gold-framed shades. Maybe, this was because it was still in the morning, right before lunch time.

The first and only how-to-get-around-Macau-in-one-day guide was given by a helpful lady from the tourist center. You need only to get into a bus and it will take you to the center of the island.

"You don't have to change your Hong Kong dollars to patacas. We receive Hong Kong dollars, including coins for the bus," she said.

Taxis are not so popular on the island. People would not take a taxi unless they are in an extreme rush -- which rarely happens on this 26-square-kilometer island of only around 450,000 people.

This part of China was colonized by the Portuguese in the 16th century as the first European settlement in the Far East. Following the transfer of sovereignty by the Portuguese government to the Chinese government, Macau -- or Aomen in Chinese -- became a Special Administrative Region of China in December 1999, similar to the status gained by Hong Kong two years earlier.

Under the "one country, two systems" formula imposed by the Chinese government, Macau will have a high degree of autonomy in all matters, except for foreign affairs and defense for the next 50 years.

"Four years ago, there were still gunfights between casino Mafioso on the streets, even during the day," the tourist center official said. "But after the Chinese military took over the casino monopoly, things have got better."

That day, Macau looked peaceful as light rain fell from the cloudy sky.

The bus that led to Almeida Ribeiro Avenue dropped us in front of the General Post Office building. A short walk from there took us to the Senate Square. There, you'll sense a European look and feel, blended with the predominate Chinese culture. On the streets, you see Western-made scooters and Ferrari cars, and in restaurants, you will be served with a variety of Chinese dishes, including the tasty Yang Chouw fried rice.

In the center of the square is a fountain shaped like an armillary sphere. In the square is located the 400-year-old Santa Casa de Misericordia, which is the oldest Christian charity house on the Asian mainland.

The square is a venue for art festivals and other events during the Chinese New Year and is a favorite rendezvous point for people living on the island on weekdays.

The rows of Chinese antiquity shops in the square and the presence of shops selling American products, like the Levi's jeans store and Starbucks coffee shop, makes you feel as if you are living in two time periods at the same time. The island's youngsters come to the square to shop, chat, or just hang around. Far from the rush of Hong Kong, this island endorses a much more laid-back atmosphere. People walk slow, talk fast.

Crossing hills and valleys, the streets of the square leads to the ruins of the Church of St. Paul in Rue de S. Paulo.

The ruined church still stand tall, a symbol of the strong Catholic influence brought by the Portuguese to this small island. Built in the 1602 by the Jesuits, the church was set on fire in 1835, leaving only the towering facade which was carved by Japanese Christian exiles. Below the church is a museum that stores the bones of Japanese martyrs, along with huge paintings from the 17th century and 18th century recording the early days of the Catholic church in Asia. Statues of saints, symbols of the crucifixion and the garden of Eden stand in the garden and the front square of the church.

Locals also love to gather in the front square of the church just to enjoy the day. Next to the ruined church is Camoes Garden. Originally built as a Portuguese merchant's garden for his mansion, Camoes Garden has become an attractive place to visit thanks to its rich botanical collection, which include trees originating from China, Malaysia, Java, the Philippines and India.

Elderly people love to exercise in the garden, using simple fitness equipment. Some of them walk to the top of the garden, called Phoenix Hill, from which they can enjoy a breathtaking view of the island.

As night falls, the city's lights, mostly casinos, start to glimmer. Inside the casinos, there is fun and entertainment. Outside, there is peace and harmony.

The East-meets-West atmosphere experienced by visitors on this island is simply unforgettable.

Tips

Getting there:

People can go to Macau by helicopter, either from Hong Kong or Shenzen in Mainland China. From Hong Kong, it takes 16 minutes to reach the island, while the trip from Shenzen is 20 minutes. The chopper service from Hong Kong to Macau operates every half an hour from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m.

A more popular choice of transportation from Hong Kong is the hydrofoils and catamarans owned by TurboJET or First Ferry. The firms operate 24 hours, offering prices ranging from HK$141 for economy class to $1,650 for VIP cabins per ride. The trip starts at Hong Kong Ferry Terminal in the Shun Tak Centre at Sheung Wan, and ends at the Macau Ferry Terminal in the Outer Harbour.

Macau International Airport is located on Taipa Island, 15 minutes from the Macau Ferry Terminal and is connected by a bridge with the island of Macau. There are several airlines using the airport, including Air Macau. Details are available at www.macau-airport.com.

Visas:

The Macau administration provides visa-free facilities for visitors from several countries, including Indonesia, Australia, the United States, United Kingdom, France and Germany. For details, check out www.macautourism.gov.mo.

Accommodation:

There are several five-star hotels on the island, namely the Ritz, Hyatt, Mandarin Oriental and Westin. There are also many low-cost hotels for budget travellers.