Older models back in demand

Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta

Like yesteryear's fashions being given a reworking for a fresh new look, older models are also returning to sashay again on the catwalk.

Ria Juwita and Henidar Amroe, two top models of the 1980s, highlighted the show of Sebastian Gunawan earlier this year, while no fewer than six "veteran" models appeared alongside their younger colleagues in Oscar Lawalata's show. Even Ria Saha, popular among fashion buffs in the early 1980s, displayed the collection of Andrea Sutisno, along with other 30 plus models, such as Auk Murat and Lulu Dewayanti.

When they appear, they are greeted by applause. It's not only a nostalgic nod to the past, but also the spectators' acknowledgement that these models have something that the present crop lack.

"Models of the previous era have a stronger mark of character than their fellows of today," said Panca Makmun, a choreographer who has organized various major fashion events since 1985.

For Panca, character is defined as a combination of a strong expression and a striking personality on the catwalk. The return of these models may be taken as a backhanded response to the performance of younger models, who, according to the fashionista, so closely resemble one another as to be indistinguishable.

That means boring.

They walk like robots, without the flair or maturity to understand the fashions they are displaying. That is why a really good model, like Arzetti, really stands out.

"By Indonesian standards, we don't have any super models now. When Okky Asokawati and Ratih Sanggarwati were still queens of the catwalk, they could be called super models," said Panca.

In 1980s, when the fashion world began to develop in the country, it was the dream of many a young girl to be a model. Modeling was associated with glamor and the upper class.

As there were only a few established models, those aspiring to climb the modeling ladder had to work hard to ensure that they developed their own character and became the center of attention of the mass media. They realized they had to be able to lure the public either on the catwalk, in front of the camera or in their daily lives. In short, they strove to become public figures.

Apart from popularity and good character and personality on the catwalk, a model needs to maintain her reputation. All these qualities shape models with charisma.

In the case of super models, it is also expected that they will have "spirit" or a high dedication to their profession.

"In the past, models had a vision that they had to be on the same level as public figures. They had their dreams: to be top models and enjoy a good reputation," Sebastian said.

When private TV stations began operation in the early 1990s and TV films were made, new stars began to emerge. The music industry has livened up with the use of video clips to popularize singers and their songs. Presenters of entertainment programs, singers and TV stars have become a new breed of personalities in the country's entertainment world. Gossip shows and a glamorous lifestyle have led to the emergence of new divas and public figures, positions previously held only by fashion models.

Times change. Modeling is no longer a special, exclusive profession because there are too many models today. As a result, the only place a model can achieve distinction is on the catwalk and on the pages of a magazine. She will never attempt to turn herself into a public figure. So, there is no challenge of serious competition to shape one's character.

Models today have lost their charisma. Yes, they have the required height and a pretty face, and they are satisfied that they can take part in many shows. In the past, fashion shows were held only in star-rated hotels, but today they are also held in cafes and malls.

"Compared with the past, our models do not seem to possess an interest in building their character. Perhaps, this is the result of a more simple form of show, so that people are not moved to develop themselves. In the end, however, these fashion models vary little from one show to another," Panca said.

This has prompted designers and show choreographers to recruit older models, those who would have been considered past their heyday. "I deliberately put on show these old models to ensure that they will bring about the right atmosphere and because they know how to move on the catwalk," said Sebastian.

Panca, who always takes part in determining which models will be hired for his shows, added that senior fashion models actually inspire the viewer with their glamor. They know how to don the dresses and wear them so they appear expensive.

"In every show, they will look different. Models with character actually should not refuse to don dresses designed by anybody," he added.

Interestingly, Indonesia is not alone in witnessing the return of older models. Linda Evangelista, one of the "trinity" of international super models in the early 1990s, recently returned from a long hiatus to grace the cover of American Vogue. Other "old" faces like Christy Turlington and Stephanie Seymour continue to work.

"The fashion world longs to see the appearance of super models because they are crazy and interesting but have their own attitude," current top model Amber Valetta said in Vogue.

Sebastian has recommended that more rewards be extended to models today to ensure they enjoy equal respect as people in other professions. Women's magazines, for example, should shape the image of models instead of merely using them as pretty decoration.

As for Panca, he believes that it is good for a model to be allowed to delve deeper into herself. Relevant parties, like model agents, for example, may provide their models with information about the attitude, character and charisma that a model should possess.

Both Panca and Sebastian are optimistic that some day there will appear models of character and charisma like those of the previous generations. The question is when.

"If we take examples from the past, it will take about four or five years before our present models will have their own particular character," Panca said.

In the meantime, older models are happy to fill their shoes.