Older models back in demand

Older models back in demand

Muara Bagdja, Contributor, Jakarta

Like yesteryear's fashions being given a reworking for a fresh
new look, older models are also returning to sashay again on the
catwalk.

Ria Juwita and Henidar Amroe, two top models of the 1980s,
highlighted the show of Sebastian Gunawan earlier this year,
while no fewer than six "veteran" models appeared alongside their
younger colleagues in Oscar Lawalata's show. Even Ria Saha,
popular among fashion buffs in the early 1980s, displayed the
collection of Andrea Sutisno, along with other 30 plus models,
such as Auk Murat and Lulu Dewayanti.

When they appear, they are greeted by applause. It's not only
a nostalgic nod to the past, but also the spectators'
acknowledgement that these models have something that the present
crop lack.

"Models of the previous era have a stronger mark of character
than their fellows of today," said Panca Makmun, a choreographer
who has organized various major fashion events since 1985.

For Panca, character is defined as a combination of a strong
expression and a striking personality on the catwalk. The return
of these models may be taken as a backhanded response to the
performance of younger models, who, according to the fashionista,
so closely resemble one another as to be indistinguishable.

That means boring.

They walk like robots, without the flair or maturity to
understand the fashions they are displaying. That is why a really
good model, like Arzetti, really stands out.

"By Indonesian standards, we don't have any super models now.
When Okky Asokawati and Ratih Sanggarwati were still queens of
the catwalk, they could be called super models," said Panca.

In 1980s, when the fashion world began to develop in the
country, it was the dream of many a young girl to be a model.
Modeling was associated with glamor and the upper class.

As there were only a few established models, those aspiring to
climb the modeling ladder had to work hard to ensure that they
developed their own character and became the center of attention
of the mass media. They realized they had to be able to lure the
public either on the catwalk, in front of the camera or in their
daily lives. In short, they strove to become public figures.

Apart from popularity and good character and personality on
the catwalk, a model needs to maintain her reputation. All these
qualities shape models with charisma.

In the case of super models, it is also expected that they
will have "spirit" or a high dedication to their profession.

"In the past, models had a vision that they had to be on the
same level as public figures. They had their dreams: to be top
models and enjoy a good reputation," Sebastian said.

When private TV stations began operation in the early 1990s
and TV films were made, new stars began to emerge. The music
industry has livened up with the use of video clips to popularize
singers and their songs. Presenters of entertainment programs,
singers and TV stars have become a new breed of personalities in
the country's entertainment world. Gossip shows and a glamorous
lifestyle have led to the emergence of new divas and public
figures, positions previously held only by fashion models.

Times change. Modeling is no longer a special, exclusive
profession because there are too many models today. As a result,
the only place a model can achieve distinction is on the catwalk
and on the pages of a magazine. She will never attempt to turn
herself into a public figure. So, there is no challenge of
serious competition to shape one's character.

Models today have lost their charisma. Yes, they have the
required height and a pretty face, and they are satisfied that
they can take part in many shows. In the past, fashion shows were
held only in star-rated hotels, but today they are also held in
cafes and malls.

"Compared with the past, our models do not seem to possess an
interest in building their character. Perhaps, this is the result
of a more simple form of show, so that people are not moved to
develop themselves. In the end, however, these fashion models
vary little from one show to another," Panca said.

This has prompted designers and show choreographers to recruit
older models, those who would have been considered past their
heyday. "I deliberately put on show these old models to ensure
that they will bring about the right atmosphere and because they
know how to move on the catwalk," said Sebastian.

Panca, who always takes part in determining which models will
be hired for his shows, added that senior fashion models actually
inspire the viewer with their glamor. They know how to don the
dresses and wear them so they appear expensive.

"In every show, they will look different. Models with
character actually should not refuse to don dresses designed by
anybody," he added.

Interestingly, Indonesia is not alone in witnessing the return
of older models. Linda Evangelista, one of the "trinity" of
international super models in the early 1990s, recently returned
from a long hiatus to grace the cover of American Vogue. Other
"old" faces like Christy Turlington and Stephanie Seymour
continue to work.

"The fashion world longs to see the appearance of super models
because they are crazy and interesting but have their own
attitude," current top model Amber Valetta said in Vogue.

Sebastian has recommended that more rewards be extended to
models today to ensure they enjoy equal respect as people in
other professions. Women's magazines, for example, should shape
the image of models instead of merely using them as pretty
decoration.

As for Panca, he believes that it is good for a model to be
allowed to delve deeper into herself. Relevant parties, like
model agents, for example, may provide their models with
information about the attitude, character and charisma that a
model should possess.

Both Panca and Sebastian are optimistic that some day there
will appear models of character and charisma like those of the
previous generations. The question is when.

"If we take examples from the past, it will take about four or
five years before our present models will have their own
particular character," Panca said.

In the meantime, older models are happy to fill their shoes.