Nuskambangan, a new holiday resort

Agus Maryono, The Jakarta Post, Cilacap, Central Java

Nusakambangan island is mostly renowned for its jailed fierce- looking, big-time criminals. It is known as convict island. But that's not all there is in this seemingly eerie island in the south of Java, because it also has some worth-seeing natural beauty.

The island has a 30-kilometer long coastline with magnificent white-sand beaches and nearly untouched natural caves. The white- sand Permisan beach is located near Permisan penitentiary, one of four prisons left on the island.

The Dutch colonial government, through its Department van Recht en Justitie (Department of Justice) built eight penitentiaries on Nusakambangan. The Indonesian government then halved the number of jails to four; Batu, Besi, Kembang Kuning and Permisan.

Big-time criminals, corruptors and political dissidents, left over from former dictator Soeharto's era, are jailed in the penitentiaries, including Soeharto's beloved son Hutomo "Tommy" Mandala Putra -- who was sentenced to 15 years in jail for premeditated murder, possession of firearms and fleeing from justice -- and former minister, tycoon and Soeharto's golf buddy Muhammad "Bob" Hasan, who is behind bars for corruption.

The idea of the island, as a tourist destination, was first announced in 1995 by former minister of justice Oetojo Oesman but still few come to visit, mainly because of the bureaucratic hassles of obtaining permission from the local tourism agency and the Ministry of Justice.

Nusakambangan faces an ambiguous situation between an off- limits area and a growing regency. The Ministry of Justice claims the island as their jurisdiction because of the prisons while the local administration sees the island as a means to increase tourist revenues.

Spokesman for the local administration Gatot Arif admitted the unclear status of Nusakambangan had caused hesitation to make the most of the island for tourism.

"We are still half-hearted about developing the tourism potential on the island because of the unclear status of Nusakambangan. What we can do right now is open it to the public, although the Ministry of Justice still imposes tight procedures to enter it even only for a visit," Gatot told The Jakarta Post recently.

Obviously, the local administration is still hesitant to invest in the island while the Ministry of Justice has long warned that nothing can be done on the island because it will only be used as prisoners' island.

During his visit to the island a year ago, Minister of Justice Yusril Ihza Mahendra even warned the cement producer PT Semen Cibinong to be careful about exploiting limestone on the island otherwise he would review the permission allowing the company to operate there.

So once there is a chance to visit the island or the beautiful Permisan beach, do not expect to buy snacks or soft drinks or even spend the night in a hotel near the beach. You will not find any of that at present.

However, there are dozens of Nusakambangan prisoners who are offering merchandise, such as rings with polished stones, and looking very fierce. The prisoners wander on the beach freely, but under the watchful eye of a few prison guards.

The guards said those who are allowed to sell the rings are prisoners who have nearly finished their sentences. On average, the prisoners on the beach have two years or less remaining, said a warden who declined to be named.

The rings and polished stones are the worked and shaped by the prisoners while the stones and shells used are obtained from the beach. The prices are between Rp 5,000 (U.S. cents 55) to Rp 10,000.

The price is set low due to low demand. It must be said though, that the rings and the stones are truly great efforts and real works of art in most cases.

"The sales are conducted fairly. I can buy cigarettes and save a little to be used once I am freed from Nusakambangan," claimed a prisoner, Rudi, who said he had spent more than 15 years in prison and still had one and a half years to go.

The 35-year-old Rudi, hailing from Sulawesi, said the rings sometimes sell well during holidays and weekends but not always.

"Sometimes nobody comes to the beach at all," he said.

It is a windfall for Rudi and his colleagues if they can sell three to five rings in a day. Be aware, however, that the fierce- looking prisoners often press the tourists to buy their rings. They are also very, very persistent and hound you if you so much as take a glance at their wares.

However, if you sternly say no and show that their rings do not interest you, the prisoners will leave you in peace.